ST-RS505 free stroke adjustment – how?

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  • #26554
    Boombang

    After some help – have RS505 hydraulics on my CX bike and want shorter reach with less free stroke.

    I have adjusted the reach to be comfortable, trouble is I can’t find the adjuster for the free stroke.

    Read the manual and followed instructions, have found the hole for the adjuster but there is no 2mm head to turn. Same on both shifters.

    Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
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  • #883083
    0
    Boombang

    And sorted, whole collar
    And sorted, whole collar turns on the latest 505s.

    The free stroke adjustment is quite effective and there is loads of range in the lever position too.

    Got myself a very reasuring and tight feeling brake setup now.

    #883081
    0
    Boombang

    velochris wrote:

    velochris wrote:
    Download the technical docs from Shimano
    They definitely show you how to do it on the 505.

    I think you roll the hood back from the bars. Shift down to the bottom gear and the screw is accessible from underneath the shifter.

    I did but seem to have got the old doc which was a threaded grub screw under the levers.

    The latest version I found today shows turning whole collar, will check when next get a chance but hopefully problem solved.

    #883079
    0
    velochris

    Download the technical docs
    Download the technical docs from Shimano
    They definitely show you how to do it on the 505.

    I think you roll the hood back from the bars. Shift down to the bottom gear and the screw is accessible from underneath the shifter.

    #883077
    0
    Boombang

    Apparently the latest 505 has
    Apparently the latest 505 has no 2mm grub screw.

    LBS have said you simply put in an allen key for leverage and turn the collar!

    #883075
    0
    Boombang
    kev-s wrote:
    Not worked on the RS505 lever but have done  quite a few R785 levers over the last few years

     

    Thanks but the 505 is completely different.

    #883073
    0
    Boombang
    therevokid wrote:
    there are 2 holes … the reach adjustment one is behind (inline with) the

    lever so you have to move it in before you can see it (apparently) and the

    allen key would be facing straight down when inserted.

     

    There’s this too ….

     

    http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13069980

     

    Thanks, that’s a great help – I can see the threaded hole and clearly don’t have the screws fitted.  

    #883071
    0
    therevokid

    there are 2 holes … the

    there are 2 holes … the reach adjustment one is behind (inline with) the

    lever so you have to move it in before you can see it (apparently) and the

    allen key would be facing straight down when inserted.

     

    There’s this too ….

     

    http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13069980

    #883069
    0
    kev-s

    Not worked on the RS505 lever

    Not worked on the RS505 lever but have done  quite a few R785 levers over the last few years

    Not sure where the free stroke screw is on the RS505 but on the R785 lever its a pozzie head screw on the side of the lever body

    The free stroke on the shimano road brakes is pretty crap tbh

    To move the pistons in a bit to reduce the free stroke you have two options

    1. remove the pads and give the lever a small squeeze to move the pistons in 1-2mm , refit pads and see how the lever feels, as there will be less fluid in the system now the pistons may retract over time

     

    2. (the way i do mine) take the bleed block, sand off 1-1.5mm off one side, fit it to the caliper and bleed the brake as normal, this sets the pistons in a little bit and fills the system with fluid so theres no chance of the pistons moving back out

     

    There’s more info about the above in this link

     

    http://forums.roadbikereview.com/components-wrenching/shimano-r785-disc-levers-have-excessive-free-stroke-343759-2.html

     

     

    #883067
    0
    Boombang

    If anyone has a photo that
    If anyone has a photo that would be really helpful – more I read up the more I think the screw is missing

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