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Aero wheels for a small light rider

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  • July 7, 2015 at 1:02 pm #24384
    Shortstuff84

    Hi guys

    Am new to this forum and am hoping you guys can guide me in the right direction!

    I’m after a set of new wheels. However, I don’t really know what I’m looking for. I currently have the Mavic Cosmic Elite’s which came with my bike when I bought it. This weekend just gone, I hired a set of Enve 6.7 clinchers and used them on the Ironman Wales bike course. I’ve only done that course once before, this time last year, but I can see from my times I was noticeably faster. That might be due to having an extra year of cycling in me though, I’m not sure. However, the wheels certainly felt faster on the flats. I’m on the small side (5 foot 1, 7 and a half stone) so hills have never been an issue for me. However, I’m generally pretty rubbish on the flats and these aero wheels seemed to make it feel a lot easier.

    So, now I think I’m after some aero wheels 🙂 However I literally have no idea what I’m looking for! I didn’t intend on getting the Enve wheels – that was a mistake with the shop. I had asked for some FFWD FR6s but they gave me the Enve ones instead because someone already had the FR6s.

    I don’t want to spend any more than £1k on a set but I really don’t know where to start. Is my size and weight an issue? I’ve never used aero wheels before and they definitely did feel a bit twitchy when they caught the wind.

    Any help or advice would be massively appreciated. Thanks 🙂

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Viewing 15 replies - 61 through 75 (of 76 total)
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  • July 8, 2015 at 2:32 pm #852831
    0
    fukawitribe

    edster99 wrote:Free speed =

    edster99 wrote:
    Free speed = tubulars.

    Well speed perhaps – lovely ride quality, often – but ‘free’ ?….

    July 8, 2015 at 2:05 pm #852829
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    edster99

    Free speed = tubulars. Less
    Free speed = tubulars. Less weight to get rolling, more compliant, not as much hassle as people imply (due to having no experience of them and being scared of them). Whatever you buy, you’ll get more performance with a tubular version. And if you ever want to do long alpine descents, you won’t want to be using carbon clinchers, based on my and several people I know’s personal experience.

    July 8, 2015 at 1:32 pm #852827
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    freebsd_frank

    Freeebsd_frank, please stop

    Freeebsd_frank, please stop posting your ill formed opinions as if they were
    facts. Give an opinion by all means but don’t do it in such a way as to make
    it seem like it is accurate rather than an opinion. Taking your points in
    order:

    Don’t tell me to stop posting my opinions and while we’re at it, tell me which
    of my facts or opinions is wrong instead of indulging in personal abuse.

    Some deep rims are lighter than some shallow rims.

    Made from the same material? That defies common sense and science. Well done.
    Can you also say “ill formed opinions”?

    If 80% of wind resistance is the rider and not the wheel then in cross winds
    the deep section rim is negligible compared with the effect of the rider.

    So if it’s negligible in a cross wind then it’s even more negligible when the
    wind is in your face, isn’t it?

    Many have attested to steering problems and keeping your line in cross winds
    with deep section rims.

    Not all deep section rimmed wheels are weak.

    I never said that they were. The strength of a wheel has more to do with the
    spokes, how they’re laced, what material they’re made of and their number.

    20 radial spokes are fine, back in the 80’s I rode TTs, road races and went
    youth hostelling on 20/24 spoke radial wheels I built myself without a single
    problem or without having to true them in over 5 years.

    So your anecdote overides the scientific evidence on the matter does it?

    Even Campagnolo says that their 20/24 radially spoked Khamsins should not be
    used by people over 82Kgs.

    To use a 20/24 set of racing wheels for youth hostelling constitutes an act of
    gross stupidity on your part.

    When you say “sealed” hubs I assume you really mean cartridge bearings.

    No. I mean hubs that can’t be maintained by the user.

    Most cartridge bearings are replaceable, the Hope hubs on my MTB have had
    one new set of bearings in 10 years of heavy use, they did not have to go
    in the bin.

    Good for you. You bought a quality product that you could maintain.

    However, my Shimano cup and cone hubs had to be binned when the bearing
    surfaces pitted.

    Another anecdote. They were defective or you didn’t maintain them.

    If you read (and respond to) the original post you will see that the wheels
    are for triathlon which you don’t seem to consider to be racing. Try one,
    you will soon change your stupid viewpoint.

    If you read my previous post, nowhere do I say that triathlon isn’t racing.
    Stop making stuff up and then abusing me.

    32 spoke 3x wheels! Please, these are racing wheels we are looking at
    not touring wheels with a weeks worth of camping gear on board

    You’re a moron who can’t properly address the facts and opinions I bought up
    in my previous post. Keep touring on your 20/24s. Keep believing in the magical
    benefits of your weak radially spoked deep section (and expensive) wheels
    so that you don’t look like a plonker when riding with the rest of the
    sheeple.

    The fact is you’re a fashion victim with more money than sense, unable to
    support your opinion that deep section rims are “better” accept with lame
    anecdotes. What do you do when you’re found out? Resort to abuse.

    Pathetic.

    July 8, 2015 at 10:39 am #852825
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    Anonymous

    someone else has already
    someone else has already mentioned DCR and I would second him as a wheelbuilder.
    Go on his website and send him an email with your requirements and your current bike spec. Give him an idea of what you are looking for and your budget and Im sure he will give you some good options.
    Ive got two different wheels by him and after 3 years neither need any truing.

    Spokes are often not given that much consideration when choosing a wheel but at speed they do add a lot of drag. Certainly having fewer spokes helps with this but the spoke profile does also. I opted for Sapim Laser on mine and am certain they help reduce drag.

    July 8, 2015 at 7:00 am #852823
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    Martyn_K

    I had a few months of
    I had a few months of researching deep section carbon wheels with a £1k budget earlier in the year. It is indeed a minefield. I ended my search by buying a pair of Cero RC45 wheels from Cycle Division. At £800 they are below your budget and when i got them i even got a free pair of Conti race tyres.

    I have been riding them now for a couple of months and i am really happy with them. Good pick up from a standstill, great speed retention, very stiff with good response in the corners and in cross winds they are not too bad (<20mph wind). They even climb very well in comparison to a set of lighter, low profile rims i also own.

    Cycle Division themselves were very good too. I had some queries that they answered both in email replies and also in person on the phone. When i ordered them i got next day delivery for the nominal p&p charges. A worry free purchase process and i'm sure there will be no problems sourcing spares when the time comes.

    That's my experience, i'm sure others will be along with theirs.

    July 8, 2015 at 6:41 am #852821
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    Welsh boy

    Freeebsd_frank, please stop
    Freeebsd_frank, please stop posting your ill formed opinions as if they were facts. Give an opinion by all means but don’t do it in such a way as to make it seem like it is accurate rather than an opinion. Taking your points in order:

    Some deep rims are lighter than some shallow rims.
    If 80% of wind resistance is the rider and not the wheel then in cross winds the deep section rim is negligible compared with the effect of the rider.
    Not all deep section rimmed wheels are weak.
    20 radial spokes are fine, back in the 80’s I rode TTs, road races and went youth hostelling on 20/24 spoke radial wheels I built myself without a single problem or without having to true them in over 5 years.
    When you say “sealed” hubs I assume you really mean cartridge bearings. Most cartridge bearings are replaceable, the Hope hubs on my MTB have had one new set of bearings in 10 years of heavy use, they did not have to go in the bin. However, my Shimano cup and cone hubs had to be binned when the bearing surfaces pitted.
    If you read (and respond to) the original post you will see that the wheels are for triathlon which you don’t seem to consider to be racing. Try one, you will soon change your stupid viewpoint.
    32 spoke 3x wheels! Please, these are racing wheels we are looking at not touring wheels with a weeks worth of camping gear on board.

    Have a look at these: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/pro-lite-bracciano-caliente-45mm-carbon-clincher-wheelset/

    July 8, 2015 at 6:18 am #852819
    0
    olic

    FLO 60s – bit of a weight
    FLO 60s – bit of a weight penalty but excellent performance and a reasonable price. If you’re doing a lot of triathlons/ironman style events then weight shouldn’t really be coming into it, even though you’re a light rider.

    July 8, 2015 at 4:11 am #852817
    0
    Nixster

    The DCR wheels I mentioned
    The DCR wheels I mentioned are his ‘off the shelf’ hand built wheels, which does help with the ‘where do I start’ issue. You could then look at e.g. lighter hubs but they already come with quality spokes and enough of them for someone as svelte as yourself. Yellow jersey are 38mm Green jersey 50mm, no use if you want to go deeper I realise. From what I gather 80 or 90mm rears are not uncommon in triathlons?

    Of course I’m doing the usual forum thing of putting my preference forward as your ideal solution but we do at least seem to have something in common vs recommending open pros to someone who asked about aero wheels (|:

    Mind you, hiring while you decide if they’re really for you is a good call but if it were me I would want to practice and be comfortable with my kit before an event.

    July 7, 2015 at 11:37 pm #852815
    0
    freebsd_frank

    I remain to be convinced by
    I remain to be convinced by the benefit of “aero” wheels.

    [list]

    [*]For “good ones”, they’re expensive. For top pros backed by a team:
    they don’t have to pay for them or if they break then the service car
    (or a domestique) will give you a new wheel at no cost.

    [*]80% of drag is caused by the rider, not the wheels or bike.

    [*]They’re heavier than low section rims. Bad for mountains or hills.

    [*]They’re a menace in crosswinds.

    [*]They’re weak. Cheap ones use crappy spokes eg. plain gauge, no-name.
    Even expensive ones typically use 20 spokes (maybe more on the back)
    radially laced (2x on DS rear) and they’re machine built (if you’re not
    a top pro).

    [*]Cheap ones come with sealed hubs, so when the bearings need
    re-greasing/wearout you chuck them away.

    [*]If you’re racing (not TT or Triathlon), you’re mainly riding in the peloton
    and you get more aero advantage from the guys riding in front of you blasting
    a hole through the air.

    [*]Because of the heavy deep section rims, they are slower to “spin up”.

    [/list]

    If I was the original poster, I’d carry on hiring or borrowing the aero wheels
    for events (assuming there are no crosswinds or hills) and spend my money
    on a decent set of training/everyday wheels.

    You can build a pair of Mavic Open Pros with 32h Record hubs and Sapim
    CX Ray spokes (built 3x) for <£350. They'll be reasonably light and you could use them when it's windy or hilly and still ride them for training. What's more they'll be bombproof, last you years and save you a fortune 🙂

    July 7, 2015 at 9:58 pm #852813
    0
    2 Wheeled Idiot

    I’m less than 70 KGS all year
    I’m less than 70 KGS all year round and avoid potholes/don’t treat them too badly yet my planet al30’s have been frankly shocking in terms of robustness.
    I’ve broken 4 spokes on my current rear wheel which was a warranty replacement after breaking 3 spokes on that wheel.
    They may be stiff, light and cheap….but they seem to be made of cheese. :/

    July 7, 2015 at 7:48 pm #852811
    0
    Shortstuff84

    I hear mixed reviews on
    I hear mixed reviews on planet x but maybe that is from heavier riders? Definitely don’t want to spend more than I need to!

    July 7, 2015 at 7:43 pm #852809
    0
    Shortstuff84

    Cheers for the advice guys. I
    Cheers for the advice guys. I had never heard of far sports so will have a look. I’m happy with the wheels I currently have for climbing, they seem to do the job. 🙂

    I did look at the guys who do the hand built wheels but I wasn’t sure where to start, as I don’t understand what I’m asking for! Is it simply a case of saying this is my budget, and this is what I want my wheels to do? Sorry for being so naive!

    Nothing wrong with triathlon – gives me an excuse for not being so good on the bike… I’m more of a swimmer/runner… 😉

    July 7, 2015 at 7:32 pm #852807
    0
    racingcondor

    Well, at your weight I’d go
    Well, at your weight I’d go for the lightest rims so ideally a 35-45 mm rim.

    That said the main drawback of the Planet X offerings is the low spoke count not suiting heavier/more powerful riders so save 600 of your 1k budget and get some Planet X 50mm tubulars and you’ll have a great set for the cash.

    July 7, 2015 at 2:37 pm #852805
    0
    Nixster

    I’ve been idly researching
    I’ve been idly researching this topic and there are a range of options depending on what you want to spend. Far sports is the budget end of things with a number of options of width and dept, clincher or tubular and you could indeed get two sets for your money.

    Walker Bros and Wheelsmith both do sets in your budget at around £800 and £1k respectively however I’ve seen DCR wheels yellow and green jersey wheelsets at £685 delivered and they look convincing, he will mix F&R wheels of different depths which would suit you I guess? If it were my bag of sand that’s where it would be going.

    After that it’s second hand Zipps with all the caveat emptor stuff that goes with it, plus their earlier hubs don’t have the best rep for durability. Tubs cheaper than clinchers if you could stretch to £1.5k for 303s but that’s a whole different can of worms.

    FF4R/6R you obviously already know about, to me they look a bit OTT but hey you’re into triathlon 😉

    July 7, 2015 at 2:04 pm #852803
    0
    2 Wheeled Idiot

    IMO, if you’re willing to
    IMO, if you’re willing to take the (slight) risk, some Chinese carbon wheels from farsports or other well known and respected manufacturers cannot be beaten for value. Also for your kind of budget you could get both a deep set for flatter roads and then some shallower ones for climbing and/or windy rides.

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