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Chris James.
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July 7, 2015 at 1:02 pm #24384
Shortstuff84
Hi guys
Am new to this forum and am hoping you guys can guide me in the right direction!
I’m after a set of new wheels. However, I don’t really know what I’m looking for. I currently have the Mavic Cosmic Elite’s which came with my bike when I bought it. This weekend just gone, I hired a set of Enve 6.7 clinchers and used them on the Ironman Wales bike course. I’ve only done that course once before, this time last year, but I can see from my times I was noticeably faster. That might be due to having an extra year of cycling in me though, I’m not sure. However, the wheels certainly felt faster on the flats. I’m on the small side (5 foot 1, 7 and a half stone) so hills have never been an issue for me. However, I’m generally pretty rubbish on the flats and these aero wheels seemed to make it feel a lot easier.
So, now I think I’m after some aero wheels 🙂 However I literally have no idea what I’m looking for! I didn’t intend on getting the Enve wheels – that was a mistake with the shop. I had asked for some FFWD FR6s but they gave me the Enve ones instead because someone already had the FR6s.
I don’t want to spend any more than £1k on a set but I really don’t know where to start. Is my size and weight an issue? I’ve never used aero wheels before and they definitely did feel a bit twitchy when they caught the wind.
Any help or advice would be massively appreciated. Thanks 🙂
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alotronic
Well that was an entertaining
Well that was an entertaining read.Being (as many people will be) an owner of 3cross 32 hand built wheels and 20/24 deep section alloy rim aero wheels (and indeed of many more wheels) I can state my *opinion* based on owning both sets for four years and *seat of the pants* and also a bit of *garminology* that the aero wheels are, not surprisingly, faster and that the 32 hand-builts feel more stable and more comfortable (not a contradiction – more spokes, round spokes and more crossing). They wheels sets cost within £20 of each other and were around £250 from memory.
The OP would certainly be better off with the aero wheels given their weight and intention. And guess what, I *change my wheels* depending on what I am about to do. I have training wheels and fast wheels. I don;t race so the fast wheels are *just for fun*. Cycling is a joy, I am allowed to indulge it in anyway I like. I have fun riding and buying and tinkering with bikes. It’s not an equation.
While I share a little of the cynicism above and am a bit of a scrooge myself (I mostly buy second hand) if I did race I would certainly consider a set of carbon rims in the aero format… but only if I were Cat2 or above 😉 Otherwise it’s much more useful having two sets of wheels which are ‘good enough’ at their respective jobs.
Also worth noting that open pros have pretty much had their day, they are a good cheap training rim but not a patch on the newer wider rims from Velocity (Pacenti and so on, but I don’t have those). I base this *opinion* on having ridden both, one after the other on the same hubs with the same lacing pattern and the same tyres.
Finally would recommend a good read of the DCR website as there is a lot of pretty well balanced commentary in there on relative strengths and weaknesses of materials etc.
Martyn_K
Cheers Nixster. Next we will
Cheers Nixster. Next we will discuss in the inherent strength of the plate that his ar$e has just been handed to him on.Back to the OP.
Do a little research. Talk to some humans about their experiences. Take any advice on the internet with a pinch of salt. If possible hire some more wheels.
Most importantly, do what YOU think is right for YOU. If you have money to spend then spend it on what you like. If you make a purchase which is biased towards looks, fine. If you make a purchase biased towards performance, fine.
The bottom line is ride your bike. Enjoy riding your bike. Have fun riding your bike.
Out.
Nixster
Sorry, how rude of me, you
Sorry, how rude of me, you asked for a response on some ‘facts’ and I assume from an ‘engineering’ point of view.1 aero wheels are weak: there is no inherent reason why this should be the case. Wheels with a lower spoke count will be less robust all other things being equal, however all other things are not equal. Deeper sections will have higher Section modulus and therefore resist bending better than shallow sections. The material is likely to have a higher tensile strength as carbon is normally used in preference to aluminium, although it may be more brittle. But more importantly, in the world of engineering we are normally trying to optimise conflicting requirements. The OP weighs 7.5 stone and proposes to use them for triathlon races. This suggests that strength is not the overwhelming priority for the intended use, so ‘strong enough’ should be well within the capability of well made aero wheels.
2 aero wheels are not very aero in most conditions: there’s pretty good evidence that they are more aero most of the time than box section rims, so I assume what you’re getting at here is that they’re not aero enough for enough of the time? I think that’s up to the purchaser but again looking at the intended use, triathlon, drafting is illegal, courses are usually not mountainous and the handling issues are limited because there is no bunch racing so if there is a situation where the benefits are most likely to be realised this is probably it.
3 they’re expensive: my first suggestion costs £400, roughly the same as your hand built open pro example. And there are non aero options up to the £1k limit given. So no, not necessarily. You can go cheaper than that if you’re willing to compromise on weight but given the budget available, there seemed no reason to. They certainly can be expensive like most things but it’s not a given.
In an engineering sense I think where you went wrong was to ignore the brief. It’s a tendency we engineers have to be vigilant against.Nixster
Some facts for you:
I don’t
Some facts for you:
I don’t own the wheels in question, I never said I did. I offered some opinions relevant to the question based on my research. I sought to help which was graciously acknowledged.I have a degree in engineering, I am a chartered engineer, I am a director of one of europe’s larger engineering consultancies. I don’t struggle in technical discussions, it’s what I am paid to do.
Some opinions:
I don’t particularly care about being popular but I do care about common courtesy and reasonable manners. I challenged you as you seem not to care for these aspects of normal social interaction. The technical term for someone who has no regard for others opinions or feelings is ‘sociopath’.I would agree that there is some mixed evidence around aero wheels, reading the results posted by Flo shows that. But the evidence is just that, mixed and doesn’t support your ‘all aero wheels are a con’ point of view. Take a moment to read what I posted- I never said aero wheels would make the OP faster.
Where we disagree is that you have ignored the original post, made numerous unchecked assumptions, pushed your own viewpoint to the exclusion of all others and aggressively attacked those who disagree with you.
I find aggression is often the result of insecurity, personally.
Enjoy your bike riding.freebsd_frank
Martyn_K writes:
No, what i
Martyn_K writes:
No, what i meant was exactly what i wrote.
“They even climb very well in comparison to a set of lighter, low profile rims i also own.”
I know what you wrote. The clear implication was that they were better for
climbing.At no point in my post did i imply that the Cero RC45 wheels i bought made
me a faster, better rider.Good. Because they don’t.
I don’t think i should have to justify my purchase but because of the
tone of your previous posts i’ll play the game a little.This isn’t some “game”. People come on this forum for information. As for your
assertion that you shouldn’t justify your (expensive) purchase, you should.
Readers want to know the pros and cons of products that poster’s have bought.I like the look of carbon deep sections.
Translation: I’m a fashion victim.
For other general riding or fast flat rides i use the carbon deep sections.
Wouldn’t it be more economical to use cheaper wheels (ie. Al alloy rims)
for general riding?If you trash your wheel in a pothole, you can just get another (cheap)
rim and/or spokes and rebuild the wheel.Or do you like to “show-off” your expensive wheels irrespective of their
suitability?freebsd_frank
Nixster writes:
Hey
Nixster writes:
Hey freebase frank, if I buy 32 spoke 3 cross open pros like you say will I become an obnoxious, self opinionated @rse too?
No, you already are one. But you’d save yourself some money by not following
the rest of the fashion victims on here.OP didn’t ask about training, or training wheels but about aero RACE wheels. for the RACES they plan to do. If you don’t have anything constructive to say on the topic, why not put the computer down and go out and train. Or are you just a troll?
And I told him my opinions and facts about aero wheels and gave him some links
to other sites. On the contrary, WTF have you done? Attacked me for giving my
opinions on the matter.And you suggest I’m a troll? Don’t you know that when you point the finger,
you’ve got 4 pointing at yourself?How about addressing some of the facts about aero wheels: they’re weak,
they’re not very aero in most conditions, they’re expensive.Yeah, the facts hurt don’t they when you’ve (at great expense) bought into
the aero wheels myths as pushed by the manufacturers. I can imagine that you
feel a little bit sore after being scammed out of £100s because you’re a
know-nothing but do try not to let it show.6 posts and look how many friends you’ve made.
ROFL. You think I care how many “friends” I make on here? FYI, I don’t give a
rat’s @rse. Life’s not a popularity contest.I just give my opinions and state the facts from an engineering point of view;
I’ve studied mech/man engineering, WTF have you done? Oh yeah, bought an
expensive pair of aero race wheels in the misguided belief that they’ll
mystically make you go faster. That suggests you’re an ill-informed blowhard with more money than sense.And you shouldn’t care about being popular either but you obviously do: an insecure manchild. You’re not the only one on here,
as evidenced by the way your post got modded up by the rest of the sheeple.Go and read Jobst Brandt. He used to post on rec.bicycles.tech. Grok what he
has to say about wheels and then come back to me with some considered facts
and opinions.Until you can hold your own in a technical discussion, you should just b*gger off, you muppet.
Shortstuff84
This is super helpful, thank
This is super helpful, thank you 🙂 I’m pretty sure I could smell burning when I was braking hard over the weekend so that makes sense now! I guess if I did go for tubs, it’ll just take practice. Touch wood, I’ve only ever had one puncture. Might be luck, or maybe its hard to get a puncture when you ride as slow as I do :))And yes, you should get out and ride your bike more 🙂
Nixster
freebsd_frank wrote:
I’m
freebsd_frank wrote:I’m sorry, you’re just going to have to train harder and for that you need a
robust set of wheels. When training it doesn’t matter a damn how heavy or
non-aero your wheels are. In fact, it’s an advantage (more resistance).Hey freebase frank, if I buy 32 spoke 3 cross open pros like you say will I become an obnoxious, self opinionated @rse too?
OP didn’t ask about training, or training wheels but about aero RACE wheels. for the RACES they plan to do. If you don’t have anything constructive to say on the topic, why not put the computer down and go out and train. Or are you just a troll?
6 posts and look how many friends you’ve made.
hampstead_bandit
I’ve spent some time this
I’ve spent some time this year riding a variety of bikes from Giant (I work at a Giant brand store) including the Defy Advanced (disc), TCR (race) and Propel (aero race).I’ve used 2 different Propel, the mid range with the carbon/aluminum deep sections, and the bike below with the full carbon wheel. I’ve also experimented using low profile aluminium wheels from the TCR in the same bikes, when its been very wet / windy.

I don’t claim to be an expert, I don’t race. I do like riding fast whether its climbing hills, descending hills or on the flat – I have Regent’s Park less than 1km from my house in NW London which is ideal for fast flat sessions.
The aero wheels are very noticeable in terms of straight line speed, and maintaining a high speed once moving. Once moving fast, the wheels make a cool humming noise!
Acceleration is slower than the low profile wheels, obviously.
The full carbon wheel accelerates faster than the carbon / aluminium wheels, as the lighter weight (approx 200 gm) than the carbon / aluminium wheel is very noticeable. It also feels stiffer in terms of side to side flex. All the wheels have DT Swiss 240 internals so similar pick up.
The carbon / aluminium is much better behaved in wet weather as it has a regular aluminium brake track; the full carbon wheel works much better braking in the dry. Both aero wheelsets can be a handful in blustery conditions, but you get used to maintaining a firm grip on the bars!
If you are getting aero wheels, I’d look carefully at spending a decent amount to get a quality wheel set, and research the support you will get from the distributor in terms of spare parts and repair; as this makes ‘ownership’ of your wheelset much less painful.
fukawitribe
freebsd_frank wrote:
freebsd_frank wrote:Martyn_K writes:
They even climb very well in comparison to a set of lighter, low profile rims i also own.
Do you mean they climb better than the lighter, low profile rims?
OTIO
Martyn_K
freebsd_frank wrote:
freebsd_frank wrote:Martyn_K writes:
They even climb very well in comparison to a set of lighter, low profile rims i also own.
Do you mean they climb better than the lighter, low profile rims?
I hope not. Because that would mean your fancy, heavier deep section rims defy physics.
Truly remarkable what you can buy for “just” £800….. 😉
No, what i meant was exactly what i wrote.
“They even climb very well in comparison to a set of lighter, low profile rims i also own.”
At no point in my post did i imply that the Cero RC45 wheels i bought made me a faster, better rider. I only confirmed that i too had been researching the minefield that is deep section wheels, noted what i eventually bought and gave some feedback as to the performance of them.
I don’t think i should have to justify my purchase but because of the tone of your previous posts i’ll play the game a little.
I had some money to spend after an annual bonus from work. I just so happened to already own 2 pairs of alu rimmed low profile wheels so i did not see the point in having yet another pair. I like the look of carbon deep sections. I fancied buying some, so i did. I now use the low profile rims for long days in the hills/ mountains when i will get the benefit of them. For other general riding or fast flat rides i use the carbon deep sections.
For the record i am 5’10” and 68kgs, have so far covered 4500 miles this year at an average speed of over 19mph in a mix of club rides and solo. So i don’t think that losing lots of weight or training a great deal harder will make a major difference.
freebsd_frank
Martyn_K writes:
They even
Martyn_K writes:
They even climb very well in comparison to a set of lighter, low profile rims i also own.
Do you mean they climb better than the lighter, low profile rims?
I hope not. Because that would mean your fancy, heavier deep section rims defy physics.
Truly remarkable what you can buy for “just” £800….. 😉
freebsd_frank
Also, again please excuse my
Also, again please excuse my lack of knowledge but why would you not want to use carbon clinches on long alpine descents?
I think he’s referring to carbon clincher rims.
They heat up and can fail:
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/are-carbon-fiber-clinchers-safe-34521/
In that article, there is a lot of hand-waving by the Reynolds spokesman:
Aguero said Reynolds’ heat failure rate is “less than 1 percent.”
Yeah, but what he doesn’t mention is that probably <1% who buy their wheels go down Alpine passes with them ie. a 100% failure rate.
You might also want to look at:
http://www.wheelbuilder.com/faq.php?q_id=10Aluminum braking surfaces generally stop in all weather conditions and do not require special brake pads. Carbon braking surfaces require special brake pads, do not stop as well in wet weather, and are more sensitive to overheating under heavy braking conditions.
I forgot about them being crap in the wet in my original post
This though from the same FAQ, sums it up:
Beauty is in the eye of the… , however we all agree those carbon wheels look cool on your bike.
Translation: they’re an expensive fashion accessory.
Don’t believe the bogus wind-tunnel testing. In most conditions they are not
going to make you go any faster. Even in ideal conditions, on a straight
course with no hills or cross-winds, the gains are marginal in the grand
scheme of things.I’m sorry, you’re just going to have to train harder and for that you need a
robust set of wheels. When training it doesn’t matter a damn how heavy or
non-aero your wheels are. In fact, it’s an advantage (more resistance).Nixster
Carbon clinchers are fine on
Carbon clinchers are fine on long alpine descents as long as you don’t use the brakes…Carbon rims don’t deal well in general with heat from braking. On long alpine descents, particularly if you brake for long periods rather than just for the bends, heat builds up in the rims. This affects the resin in the CF composite, weakening it. With clinchers you are reliant on the rims to stop the tyres blowing off, potentially explosively, so weak rims are a bad thing. There’s a double whammy as the increased heat also increases the pressure in the tyres compounding the issue. Having said all that there are ways of mitigating this by pulsing rather than dragging the brakes and the top brands are on top of if not completely resolved the problem. You could of course just stop from time to time to let everything cool down.
Tubular wheels aren’t reliant on the rims to keep the tyres on, they use glue and the pressure stress remains in the tyre because they are, well, tubular. So less of an issue in terms of catastrophic failure but if the resin is breaking down due to heat that still isn’t a good thing. So apply suitable braking technique as before.
Are tubs the better option? Another tribal issue this one. In general they get you a lighter wheel & tyre system because the rim doesn’t hold the tyre together. This is particularly true with carbon rims because of the direction specific nature of its material properties. Tubular tyres suffer fewer punctures as they don’t pinch flat readily. In carbon rims, particularly deep section ones, tubs can be cheaper as they are easier to make. Zipp 303 are about £1.5k tub £2.2k clincher, round numbers. There’s a host of other stuff which is more subjective and amounts to ‘tubs are nicer’. Downside is fitting the tyres in the first place, although using tape not glue makes that easier, and dealing with punctures. For event or ‘best’ wheels at aero rim depths, and with you being light weight I would say tubs are the better option but not everyone would agree.
Hand built vs factory built is an article of faith thing. Some factory wheels are machine laced and hand finished so it’s not cut and dried but price wise it can be cheaper and you can get a custom product tailored to your needs and you can get better customer service and maintenance post purchase. After that it’s back to subjective ‘hand builts are nicer’ arguments.I really should get out and ride my bike more :S
Shortstuff84
Thanks again everyone for
Thanks again everyone for your input, really appreciate it. Lots of options to consider so I definitely have somewhere to start now.I hadn’t realised there was so much to consider. Must admit before I posted I was going to see what had the best/most reviews on wiggle!
I’m going to email DCR to see what he suggests. I don’t know if I’m getting this wrong but it almost seems like the handbuilt wheels are cheaper than factory built? How does that work?
I do like the look of the cero wheels so a definite possibility 🙂
Also, again please excuse my lack of knowledge but why would you not want to use carbon clinches on long alpine descents? Are tubs always the better option, assuming you know what you’re doing with them?
Thanks again guys x
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