rider weight

sergius wrote:Random comment,

sergius wrote:

Random comment, is there anyway to measure or rather calculate your power output roughly, without going to the expense of a power meter?

Obviously it would be a rough guideline, but it’s something I’d be interested in calculating and recording over time (deltas even if absolute values aren’t spot on).

Systems like trainerroad.com, or the Kurt iRide can calculate a pretty decent number based on wheelspeed on supported turbo trainers without a powermeter.

You’ll need to spend around 30 to 60 quid on ant+ speed sensors and ant+ usb dongle, many cyclists will already have the speed sensor.

Even if the numbers arent 100% accurate, they are consistent enough to train on. Consistent numbers are far more important than accuracy. (What constitutes an ‘accurate’ power meter is another question entirely though!)

So he does, reading fail on
So he does, reading fail on my part, sorry. 🙂

abudhabichris: Nice comment
abudhabichris: Nice comment (+1). Just one thing, power figures need to come with time to be meaningful. Is your power-to-weight using threshold power (i.e. fully aerobic power, sustainable for at least an hour)?

It’s a difficult conversation
It’s a difficult conversation to have unless you know your power.

Cycling is about two things – aerodynamics and power-to-weight ratio.

The aerodynamics matters on the flats, as does the outright power. The power-to-weight matters as soon as the road points up for any distance.

Aerodynamics is mostly you. For aero purposes forget the bike and forget the wheels – they don’t make a lot of difference. Most of the drag is you.

For power to weight it is simple:

6 watts per kilo (over 20 mins) will make you an international pro
5-6 w/kg a domestic pro
4.5-5 w/kg winning or contending races at high categories
4-4.5 w/kg doing well in lower category racing and a man to fear on the club run
3.5-4 w/kg handy club or sportive rider, unlikely to win too much if racing
3-3.5 w/kg you’ll get through most rides but you’re only going to scare the noobs
2.5-3 w/kg social/leisure rider
under 2.5 w/kg – not trying

13 stone is 82 kg.

So if you can put out 330-340 watts (which is unlikely to be honest, unless you’ve been doing some proper training) you’ll hold your own against most people other than serious racers.

Same power but with 7kg less, which is still well within your healthy range, you’d be racing respectably and churning up the club run.

Depends what your aim is.

I am 6ft, flat tum but not 6
I am 6ft, flat tum but not 6 pack 50″chest weigh 15-15st 6lbs I would like to get into the 14 stone bracket to help me climb hills more easily. In cycling terms, wrongly built. I cycle for fitness and some sportives

Well I would say your fine,
Well I would say your fine, although I’m sure we would all like to be 10 stone and be a good all rounder. In our club we have just had a leisure cyclist join us at almost 20 stone and he is so determined, he now does spin classes etc and he does his dam best.

Some stats on the pro front I know there conditioned cyclist but still human, I remember watching Magnus going up Barhatch Lane on the Tour Of Britain 2 years ago sweating Buckets, so this goes to show visually it really does hurt then hard as us at times.!

Magnus Bäckstedt 94 kilos 14.80 Stone

Andre Griepal 80 kilos 12.5978 stone

Marcel Kittel 86 Kilos 13.5427 Stone
Someone quoted:
For competitive cycling you would be described as fat as fcuk. I disagree, but understand where your coming from in a way.

Drop a couple of stone. Get
Drop a couple of stone. Get on the weights. You’ll own your local club.

A good weight for what?
For a
A good weight for what?

For a pro rider, a little on the heavy side.
For a amateur racers, still a little heavy
For a healthy leisure cyclist. Just fine.
For a full kit wanker, a little on the light side 👿