- This topic has 31 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 3 months ago by
tonyhogg.
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February 4, 2014 at 7:21 pm #20634
tonyhogg
Currently ride a Scott cr1 in 54 (medium) I’m 5ft 10.5, 32″ inside leg, my current bike feels ok but slightly cramped, I think I’m at the top end of a medium size or just at the low end of large if that sounds right? This is the next bike I’m looking to buy http://m.evanscycles.com/products/bmc/teammachine-slr01-dura-ace-2014-road-bike-ec052717
I’ve been told a more stretched out position is better, but will it give me less options to adjust the fit, what’s most important, reach, stand over clearance etc? I’ve got a test booked in at evans on both sizes, what’s important to consider in making my mind up? Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated
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drfabulous0
But that’s silly, if you got
But that’s silly, if you got a full on race bike you would get used to it and become more flexible through riding it. I have a sit up and beg ladies bike which is exceedingly comfortable, but that doesn’t mean my race bike should be set up the same.tonyhogg
Had my bg bike fit session
Had my bg bike fit session yesterday, my Scott cr1 pro in 54cm now resembles a boris bike, stem has been flipped up, spacer removed, feels more comfortable now. My bike fit session showed I wasn’t very flexible, couldn’t touch my toes etc, so I would struggle with a large saddle to bar drop. Totally ruled out the bmc team machine it felt horrible in both a 54 and 56. Was told I’m more suited to a sportive type with a tall headtube bike not a race bike.Pretty gutted, I’m looking at a bh ultralight in large now because that appears to have a massive headtube…the team machine just felt way too stretched out in 56 and really uncomfortable in 54 due to large saddle to bar drop
Nick T
Leg to torso ratio along with
Leg to torso ratio along with your total height is of utmost importance. I have my own fitting method that suits 98% of riders.If you’ve long legs and short torso you need: a smaller frame for a top tube that’s short enough to use a longer stem.
If you’ve short legs and long torso you need: a smaller frame for a head tube short enough to get decent aero position with your lower saddle relative to the bars.
If you’re around 50/50 leg to torso you need: a smaller frame because it looks more pro.
It’s still a bit over complicated I think. trying to streamline the method, always.
Scoob_84
good advice there
good advice there movingtarget. Never heard of that cc bike fit calculator, must try it over the weekend!movingtarget
+1 for going for the smaller
+1 for going for the smaller frame as you can always add spacers to the stem and adjust the angle of your handlebars/saddle but it’s hard to cut back the top tube length if over time you develop upper back/neck pain from being stretched too far forward. Not saying that there aren’t shops that can competently cut your carbon top tube down for a custom fit but it would void your warranty.FWIW, I put in my measurements on the CC bike fit guide (love at company and buy stuff from them that my LBS doesn’t stock–overall my LBS has better prices cuz they’re also an online retailer too). They recommended the Eddy Merckx fit, less aggressive cockpit than the competitive racing fit used by the pros, which means going for a larger frame with a less acute seat tube angle for less back and neck extension when you’re in the drops. This is of course, not what my current bike is at all. My Pinarello has a 46 cm seat tube length with a 51.5 cm top tube and while the cockpit is pretty aero and aggressive compared to many bikes, my old Kestrel was a 52 (hubby said it was 52 not 48) and while that would fall in line with CC’s fit recommendations, the Kestrel was nowhere near as comfortable as the Pinarello and unpleasant beyond 70 miles.
Actual Inseam 31.5 In
Trunk 17.25 In
Forearm 13 In
Arm 25.75 In
Thigh 22 In
Lower Leg 19.5 In
Sternal Notch 52.5 In
Total Height 64 InTop Tube Length 49 – 49.4 Cm
Seat Tube Range CC 53 – 53.5 Cm
Seat Tube Range CT 54.6 – 55.1 Cm
Stem Length 8.6 – 9.2 Cm
BB Saddle Position 68.3 – 70.3 Cm
Saddle Handlebar 46.9 – 47.5 Cm
Saddle Setback 5.7 – 6.1 Cm
Seatpost Type Not SetbackSo, unless the 56 is massively more comfortable to ride than the 54 I’d personally opt for the 54 as a lot of people end up fine tuning their fit over time (riding style changes, you settle into the bike). That being said, you know your body and riding style best and need to do what you feel comfortable with 🙂
oozaveared
there is a point to a bike
there is a point to a bike fit but the fact is that it is a real science not a £300 a go science.Pros on fitted bikes that they have ridden for years have found that a wider saddle for example improves their outputs. That doesn’t mean to say that you shouldn’t have a bike fit. Just don’t think it ends there.
Bike fit is a continual process not an event.
oozaveared
Scoob_84 wrote:I’ve been was
Scoob_84 wrote:I’ve been was told that its best to go for the smaller size if you sit somewhere between two, as you can always knock the seat back and increase the stem length. And if that doesn’t convince you, most pro’s ride on undersized bikes as well!! (as if that helps)I’d also head the advice of others by getting fitted. When i bought my supersix, I first went to evans to try the 54 and 56 frames. But the stems were stacked so high on both bikes the test rides were almost meaningless. The 56 felt like i was riding a boris bike so I ended up going for a 54. But now even over a year later doubts sometimes creep in over whether i bought the right bike! With the kind of money your about to spunk, you really don’t want those doubts!
Fitting or buying from a good bike shop with a decent fitting service is expensive and I’m all aware of the temptation just to go off your own judgement/sizing charts and hope you get it 90% right!
That’s my advice as well and I confess to having learned that approach way back in the 70s. Basically you go with the smallest frame you can reasonable get away with. Why? Well it’s common sense really.
Smaller is stiffer
Smaller is lighter
Smaller is more responsiveScoob_84
I’ve been was told that its
I’ve been was told that its best to go for the smaller size if you sit somewhere between two, as you can always knock the seat back and increase the stem length. And if that doesn’t convince you, most pro’s ride on undersized bikes as well!! (as if that helps)I’d also head the advice of others by getting fitted. When i bought my supersix, I first went to evans to try the 54 and 56 frames. But the stems were stacked so high on both bikes the test rides were almost meaningless. The 56 felt like i was riding a boris bike so I ended up going for a 54. But now even over a year later doubts sometimes creep in over whether i bought the right bike! With the kind of money your about to spunk, you really don’t want those doubts!
Fitting or buying from a good bike shop with a decent fitting service is expensive and I’m all aware of the temptation just to go off your own judgement/sizing charts and hope you get it 90% right!
tonyhogg
and I still don’t know, it’s
and I still don’t know, it’s driving me crazy!http://www.bmc-racing.com/int-en/bikes/ … /dura_ace/
put these measurements inseam: 32inches, trunk: 24.5, forearm 14, arm 26, thigh 23.5, lower leg 21, sternal notch 58, total height 70.5 in to this website http://www.competitivecyclist.com
confused about the seat tube height, its saying a size 56 suits me best but everything else is pointing towards a 54cm frame???
can someone else put there measurements in and see what it brings up for them please.
guyonabike
I’m pretty much your height
I’m pretty much your height and I ride a BMC – how’s that for a comparison? 🙂I’m actually 5’11” 3/4 (6ft in shoes!) so about 1.5 inches extra, but my 32″ inside leg matches. BMC provide full geometry data for all their bikes (linked below) so comparing is pretty easy!
My Bike: Granfondo GF02 – I ride a 56
http://www.bmc-racing.com/int-en/bikes/road/platform/endurance/granfondo/gf02/ultegra/The one you’re looking at: Teammachine SLR01
http://www.bmc-racing.com/int-en/bikes/road/platform/altitude/teammachine/slr01/dura_ace_di2_/There’s not much between equivalent sizes of the two bikes – they have the same seat angle so yours and my seat and cranks should be in exactly the same position. After that the more ‘racy’ geometry of the Teammachine puts the bars a bit lower and further away (about 2cm further direct from saddle to stem clamp)
Given that I have about 4cm extra torso length and I’m riding a bike 2cm shorter by equivalent size I’d suggest the 54cm SLR01 would fit you better, but still definitely ride both before making a decision. Also make sure you get to play around with the stem position on both bikes (take allen keys out with you or get the shop guys to do it).
Otherwise… Good Luck!
tonyhogg
Thanks for the advice, it’s a
Thanks for the advice, it’s a shame evans don’t provide some sort of fitting service, could really do with some expert guidance, North East based Durham.Anonymous
As it is a serious
As it is a serious investment, I’d suggest you try to take both sizes to a professional bike fitter (not Evans!) when you have the bikes for testing and see how both sizes work when adjusting saddle heights, stem length, etc. I believe you’ll have more luck identifying the correct frame for you that way.There’s plenty of experience on this site when it comes to identifying a proper bike fitter where you live.
bollandinho
I’m almost the same size as
I’m almost the same size as you, and was having a tough time deciding between the 54 & 56 cm Cannondale Synapse. I gave both a good test ride, because I’m lucky enough to have a lovely LBS, and I felt a bit happier on the 54. I felt like a bit more nimble on it than the 56, which is what swung it for me.I could have lived with 56 very happily, but the 54 was a bit better. Of course, Cannondale and BMC sizing differences could totally change that.
tonyhogg
Hope this link works
Hope this link works http://m.evanscycles.com/products/bmc/teammachine-slr01-dura-ace-2014-road-bike-ec052717I hope to give both a good test…really curious which size I’m going to prefer and why
movingtarget
True, unfortunately frame
True, unfortunately frame sizes vary by brand. You’d think that just by going by the geometry specs (seat tube, top tube length, …) you’d be able to make sense switching brands but even though the geometry chart said the top tube on my Pinarello Marvel is supposed to be 51.5 for a 46.5 cm seat tube, the actual measurement in the shop was a centimeter shorter so I went from a 48 Kestrel Talon to 46.5 in Pinarello. Same thing with the hubby, he went from a 58 in his Masi 3VC Volumetrica to a 56 Pinarello Paris.Fit seems to be different among bike fitters, a lot of people have told me that it’s better to have a slightly smaller frame than one that’s too big as when you’re stretched out too far not only can you develop upper back/neck pain but you end up fighting more for control (ie cross winds, choppy terrain, cornering …) than when you’re more centered. Of course, what is stretched too far for one person may be perfectly comfortable for someone else. When we bought our bikes the LBS let us take multiple hour+ test rides (the hubby did 6 or 7) to make sure that we felt comfortable with the handling and fit. Hopefully they’ll let you do the same at Evan’s and perhaps you could take routes that you’re used to (ones that tested how comfortable, ergonometry and handling-wise, you felt on your Scott) to help make an easier comparison. Too bad the link above sends you to the main page. Sounds like it would be a nice bike (I had Dura-Ace on my old Kestrel and it was very clean shifting although a difficult comparison to the Ultegra on my Pinarello which is much smoother but also a 7 year tech advantage).
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