[SuperCommuter]

I recently attempted to change my brake pads. The pad axles that secure the pads are threaded and have a flat screw head on the small bolt. Both bolts were completely seized and both heads started to strip after not much effort to unscrew them. Uh oh……
A quick check online revealed this to be a not uncommon problem with some talk of the different metals in the pin and the caliper reacting with each other and making them vulnerable to seizing.
I quit before I did too much damage and headed off to my LBS and it was a right headache for them to sort out, they’ve had to drill out both of the bolts.
Fortunately I got the groupset from my LBS and they would have been able to submit a warranty claim if the problem had been insurmountable or the calipers got damaged.
I bought some Deore pad axle bolts to replace the Ultegra ones because they have a hex head. The LBS have used some copper slip when fitting the new bolts and pads.
So, a wee word of warning to all y’all, you might want to check those pad axles and take some preventative action.
I can’t quite believe Shimano have used such crappy bolts. My LBS don’t know why they don’t use a pin rather than a threaded bolt.

Topic

[artm]

I rounded out the brake pad
I rounded out the brake pad retaining screws on my 105 disks. Had them drilled out and replaced with split pins. There was no damage to the calipers and they’ve worked fine since.

[Pilot Pete]

As you have learnt, the

As you have learnt, the solution is simply to apply a small amount of coppaslip to the threads before first use. I’ve done this on all mine and never had a problem when it comes to changing the pads. The bolts do have heads made of cheese, so this vital step, plus not tightening them up too much (no need, they have a retaining circlip) are key. I’ve never even had to reapply the coppaslip as the threads still have a layer looking like new when removed/ replaced. I agree, it is a bad design though.

[Yorky-M]

After two ultegra doing the

After two ultegra doing the same, I just put a split pin my new bike disc to save drilling. .aand shimano, wtf about the finish on ultrgra disc coming off in 9 months riding. Ive some 7400 dura ace from 1989 polished and lovely, NO one will have these components in 3 years never mind 30!!.

but they work good so thanks

[zeeridesbikes]

Same brakes, same issue but

Same brakes, same issue but only on the rear pad. Just left it for now but I know it’s going to be a hassle when I do have to replace the pad. The heads on the screw are like butter. 

[wtjs]

other option is to remember

other option is to remember to loosen/tighten the pins every so often to prevent them jamming.

Good point, also to be remembered with even the large hex-heads that hold your SPD shoe plates in. I seem to have been lucky with my TRP Spyres (the only DBs I’ve had) which came out easily after a year of being used in all weathers.

[wycombewheeler]

Dapple wrote:

I..  My bike is still at the LBS – they’ve been reluctant to drill out the screws (think they’re worried about damaging the caliper) so I ended up buying new calipers.  …

We won’t drill them out as we might damage the calipers, so just bin the calipers anyway? what sense does that make? Worst case with drilling is that you need to buy new calipers, which is the alternative to trying to drill them.

Not being able to loosen the bolt was the last straw that made me replace my shimano calipers with hope. After getting fed up with not being able to resolve rub/squeal.

[hawkinspeter]

All my experience comes from

All my experience comes from doing things wrong and often breaking things.

[ibr17xvii]

hawkinspeter wrote:

I’ve been looking for your forum post as that had more info than my initial one and have just found it: https://road.cc/content/forum/246664-disc-brake-noob-tips-please

Funnily enough, I went to replace my brake pads at the weekend and the front pad pin was very stiff (i.e. almost seized), but the hex head did its job and I was able to use a bit of force to undo it.

I was looking for that as well but couldn’t find it!

I probably should bookmark it as I still regard myself as a disc brake noob.

[hawkinspeter]

I’ve been looking for your

I’ve been looking for your forum post as that had more info than my initial one and have just found it: https://road.cc/content/forum/246664-disc-brake-noob-tips-please

Funnily enough, I went to replace my brake pads at the weekend and the front pad pin was very stiff (i.e. almost seized), but the hex head did its job and I was able to use a bit of force to undo it.

[Andski808]

Before drilling just check

Don’t think you’re talking about the tiny screws that hold the pads into the shoes are you?. They get stuck/round out easily too. For those, before drilling, just check whether there’s enough of the screw/bolt head proud of the pad to be able to get a pair of mole grips on there. If so, you should be able to just unscrew the bolt even if the head is rounded out. Watched the guy in my LBS do each of mine in about 5s. That’s a tip I think worth sharing. 

[ibr17xvii]

hawkinspeter wrote:

Swap those pad pins for some hex head ones.

Here’s the old post that I made a while back: https://road.cc/content/forum/240256-stuck-hydraulic-brake-pad-axlepin-br-rs805

I took it to my LBS and they used a dremel to cut a slot into the pin and remove. The hex head ones are for MTBs, but they do the job although they are slightly longer. The other option is to remember to loosen/tighten the pins every so often to prevent them jamming.

100% this. Had exactly the same issue as the OP on my rear 105 caliper so had to take it to the LBS to have it drilled out.

Fortunately managed to replace the front before it got to that stage.

The screws Shimano use for this are frankly laughable.

If in the future I get a new disc barked bike the 1st thing I will do is replace the screws.

[hawkinspeter]

Swap those pad pins for some

Swap those pad pins for some hex head ones.

Here’s the old post that I made a while back: https://road.cc/content/forum/240256-stuck-hydraulic-brake-pad-axlepin-br-rs805

I took it to my LBS and they used a dremel to cut a slot into the pin and remove. The hex head ones are for MTBs, but they do the job although they are slightly longer. The other option is to remember to loosen/tighten the pins every so often to prevent them jamming.

[Dapple]

I had exactly this happen

I had exactly this happen last week.  My bike is still at the LBS – they’ve been reluctant to drill out the screws (think they’re worried about damaging the caliper) so I ended up buying new calipers.  Not new as they’re out of stock everywhere, but I found a decent-looking set on eBay.

I’ve asked the LBS to have a go at drilling them out so I can sell the old ones and get back some of the money this has cost me.  Just terrible design from Shimano.  I’ll look into getting some pins or the Deore bolts and will use some anti-lock grease in the meantime, and loosening/cleaning them fairly regularly.

[Author]

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