[Mark E.]

Lots of info on fixing CREAKS.

My sound is a TINK usually on a power stroke on either 50/34 chainring on the (larger) lower cassette gears. Standing or sitting. Nothing while coasting.

Fuji 1.1D Aluminum Frame @1000 miles.

I have managed to eliminate all creaks, Stuck with the TINK noise which I guess to be a drive train generated sound. “I get” aluminum frames resonate.

Lately after many hours of troubleshooting, I have lubed, tightened chainring bolts and contact to spider. I have my in tube cables secured. I have done the seat post check and checked the QR on the rear wheel. Stem and bars all torqued to specs. Chain is newer. BB is a remote maybe as my mechanic thinks it’s good.

Can my chainrings be cracked or flexing. Both of them? Praxis Works. How can I tell?

Not willing to spend on new ones as I have read of those that have and end up with the same problem.

Any ideas?

 

Topic

[Mark E.]

Update. Got sidetracked by

Update. Got sidetracked by work, weather and illness. Replaced the chainrings and chain. So the tink noise is less and more random.

Got some ideas it might be spokes-great article from JimLangley.net has given me some more ideas.

Do not have a rear wheel to swap out.

Lately up to today, 30 Jan 18, I am just dealing with the tink sound and riding on.

Always willing to get any and all ideas.

M.

[Mark E.]

OKay this is getting a bit

OKay this is getting a bit much. Made my own stethoscope affair to use when on the bike in motion.

That should pinpoint the where part. Maybe even what. 

[gbayf2308]

Have you checked your spokes,

Have you checked your spokes, or had them checked, for correct tensioning? They can rub against each other if they are slightly loose or have different tensions and can cause a small tinking sound when under a power load.

If they have been tensioned recently you might also need to de-stress them http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#seating

[Mark E.]

Here we are with a pic of the

Here we are with a pic of the old rings. Worn but serviceable. Maybe some other wierdo thing not easily seen, wrong with them. Hope so. Cost me a few.  Replaced them with a new set of Praxis Works.

Got a nice price from Amazon. Also the new Shimano chain already installed.

Made sure the bolts, ring interface with spider, were lubed/torqued correctly.

Did notice some gouging on the frame arm that may be a clue.

I am giving myself an A for persistance and price shopping.

Wet day, so a long test ride delayed until tomorrow.

[Mark E.]

No visible cracks. QR ,Hangar

No visible cracks. QR ,Hangar bolt, cleats checked. I am sidetracked by the chain replacement lessening the Tink sound.  

I am looking to the Praxis chainrings as a possible culprit.  It occurred to me I did manage to have the 50 ring be slightly bent after a spill months ago,  which I righted easily with  an adjustable spanner. The sound started up as well  using the 34 ring much later.  Fatigue?

Going to the Internet to see if I can find a fire sale on some rings.

 

M.

[bobbydazzler]

I hope it’s not, but have you

I hope it’s not, but have you checked the frame carefully for any cracks?

[kil0ran]

We’re getting to the earplugs

We’re getting to the earplugs and just ride stage now 🙂

The mech hanger one is a good suggestion, it ties in with my comment about back-pedalling and checking for rear mech kick as that’s a good mechanical check for an out of alignment mech hanger.

 

[matthewn5]

Hedgemonkey wrote:

Hedgemonkey wrote:

Had the most annoying tink sound on my Whyte, replaced bb and spent ages checking thru the drive train, regreased, retorqued etc. Seemed to do it when the right pedal was on the down stroke. Eventually traced it to the front wheel QR, it really did sound like it was from the BB.

THIS.

Have you got lightweight aftermarket quick releases?
Ditch them and put on quality internal cam QRs. Fixed a noise I had.

[philhubbard]

Have you tried tightening the

Have you tried tightening the gear hanger bolt? Also, grease the bolt and a little bit of grease on the back of the hanger between it and the frame

[turnerjohn]

Have you tried cleaning your

Have you tried cleaning your pedal contact areas and cleats ? Look are no toreros for clicking….sometimes they do sometimes they don’t ! I spray a little GT85 and wipe…sorts it out !

also had a ticking noise that turned out to be the front skewer…bit of grease now it’s sound .

feel your pain….ticking creaking is the most annoying part of cycling….other than the weather !

[kil0ran]

What happens if you put the

What happens if you put the bike on the stand with the chain on the largest cog at the rear and largest at the front and then back-pedal? Any kick from the rear mech? That combo puts max stress on the drivetrain and can show up a B-screw tension issue. Unlikely to encounter it when pedalling forward so really clutching at straws but rule it out..

[Mark E.]

OK.  Ran down all the ideas

OK.  Ran down all the ideas mentioned.  Thanks.

Decided I would start some remove and replace-the most expensive last resort. My plan is to get good quality parts on a discount. So far so good.

So I started with a new chain. The old chain checked out as slightly worn but good.  The Tink sound is almost gone but starts/stops randomly.

Got a spare chain now.

I will ponder the next move.

M.

 

[Mark E.]

Sensatational ideas. Thanks.

Sensatational ideas. Thanks. I am almost embarrassed by how much is going into this troubleshoot and suspect the answer will pop up eventually.

Time today to try some  more ideas out and test ride.

Fingers crossed.

 

M.

[Hedgemonkey]

If you can try putting the
If you can try putting the pressure down when riding with hands off the bars. The aluminium forks were acting like an amplifier, there was no noticeable play on the front QR, but once greased and really tightened, “Voila” a silent bike.

[Anonymous]

 

 

I notice that you said you had checked the rear QR, but I have seen numerous occasions when this sort of noise can be caused by a front QR too. 

Try removing the QR, clean it and lube the cam surface and re-fit, making sure it is fairly tight (Shimano say it should leave an impression on your hand when you close the lever). Also check and clean the fork-ends and hub faces just incase there is some contamination.

QRs were responsible for so many creaks and sounds that bikes came in to me for.

[Author]

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