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Lots of info on fixing CREAKS.

My sound is a TINK usually on a power stroke on either 50/34 chainring on the (larger) lower cassette gears. Standing or sitting. Nothing while coasting.

Fuji 1.1D Aluminum Frame @1000 miles.

I have managed to eliminate all creaks, Stuck with the TINK noise which I guess to be a drive train generated sound. "I get" aluminum frames resonate.

Lately after many hours of troubleshooting, I have lubed, tightened chainring bolts and contact to spider. I have my in tube cables secured. I have done the seat post check and checked the QR on the rear wheel. Stem and bars all torqued to specs. Chain is newer. BB is a remote maybe as my mechanic thinks it's good.

Can my chainrings be cracked or flexing. Both of them? Praxis Works. How can I tell?

Not willing to spend on new ones as I have read of those that have and end up with the same problem.

Any ideas?

 

34 comments

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peted76 [1105 posts] 7 months ago
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I have a tick....  check for:  unaligned chain catching (but as this is easier to find I suspect you'll have ruled this out already)... maybe a notched chainring ...however if it's consistant on a certain 'stroke'...  then mr dear watson, I 'd suspect it's either your pedals or  your bottom bracket.

 

 

 

 

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steady lad [31 posts] 7 months ago
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You haven't said the type of crankset but if its not shimano then try tightening the bolt up, worked on a  Sram chainset of mine.

 

Cheers

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steady lad [31 posts] 7 months ago
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You haven't said the type of crankset but if its not shimano then try tightening the bolt up, worked on a  Sram chainset of mine.

 

Cheers

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Drinfinity [85 posts] 7 months ago
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Spokes? I had a tink sound where the spoke tension wasn't right. Can you try a different rear wheel?

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Mark E. [10 posts] 7 months ago
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Thanks. Got some time today. Will try some more possibles. No extra rear wheel.

More ideas welcome.

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Simon E [3338 posts] 7 months ago
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If it consistently coincides with a pedal stroke (is it just on one side?) the most likely is chainring, BB or the pedal itself.

Mine (square taper FSA chainset & BB, SPD pedals) does it sometimes but I CBA to do anything about it just now.

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DaSy [824 posts] 7 months ago
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Have you checked that the rear mech is not touching a spoke, as you say it is in the larger sprockets?

It may not show up in the stand with no load if this is the issue, as when you are pedaling, the wheel will tend to deflect and the drive side spokes can bow out slightly under load. 

It could be an out of line mech hanger or mech cage.

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kil0ran [924 posts] 7 months ago
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Front mech cable contacting wheel/rim? Outside chance but if its a long arm one (e.g. 5800, 4700) then it can do it. Mine (which I must shorten up) is only about 5mm from the rear tyre.

Ditto for rear mech cable although that's even less likely

 

 

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Sniffer [502 posts] 7 months ago
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I had a 'tink' going on when I pedalled.  Took me a while to work out that the outside of my front mech was just being touched  by the crank arm.  Even when re-adjusted the SRAM Red mech and the Cannondale crank have a very small clearance.  It is even more of a pain in that the limit screws seem to move occassionally.

Hope you find yours.

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turboprannet [299 posts] 7 months ago
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cable end cap from front mech on the crank arm? I've had that.

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TheLonelyOne [374 posts] 7 months ago
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You say on the "power stroke". Is that on both pedals, or just the one? If just the one, which one?

I've had a "tink" when the right crank was brushing past the front mech cable. The cable then pinged back as the crank passed, dinging against the downtube.

 

 

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Mark E. [10 posts] 7 months ago
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Still at it. No luck yet.

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andsaw [34 posts] 7 months ago
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Try checking your chain for broken end plates, i had more of a clunk than a clink but mine is on a carbon bike and could sound differently on ally, i knew mine was drivetrain related and thought it it had something to do with the rear wheel , took me a few days to track it down and took out the offending link and  put in a quick link and problem solved.

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Hedgemonkey [4 posts] 7 months ago
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Had the most annoying tink sound on my Whyte, replaced bb and spent ages checking thru the drive train, regreased, retorqued etc. Seemed to do it when the right pedal was on the down stroke. Eventually traced it to the front wheel QR, it really did sound like it was from the BB.

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Mark E. [10 posts] 7 months ago
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Thought I was  fixed.  Nope.  Went on a 0 degree temp test ride, with flat bottomshoes on. expecting no Tinking.

Was OK  for about 5 mins. Then sound is back. Maybe even worse. Tried most everything mentioned. Chain and BB is all that is left. Sound seems like it's on the right

BTW Oval 520 crank. Never fooled with one of those yet.

Stepping back for awhile as I am fairly pissed.

Can I pour some beer on the Crank area for giggles?

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Ratfink [200 posts] 7 months ago
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Have you tried adjusting the front mech? Might sound  a bit silly but i spent ages trying to track down a tick on my old giant bike,it eventually stopped after i set the limits slightly wider (just a tad) and fiddled around with the barrel adjuster.That was a triple though.

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SellMatt [15 posts] 7 months ago
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I had this problem and spent a whole ride getting on and off not quite understanding what the problem was. My tink was a loose cleat screw

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PRSboy [285 posts] 7 months ago
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turboprannet wrote:

cable end cap from front mech on the crank arm? I've had that.

I had this too.

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kil0ran [924 posts] 7 months ago
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Are you doubly sure you've ruled out the chainring bolts and ring interface? Road.cc reviewer and all round mechanicing beard KiwiMike reported something similar a couple of months ago that was to do with the chainring interface. Could you borrow a chainset to rule it out? 

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DaSy [824 posts] 7 months ago
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I notice that you said you had checked the rear QR, but I have seen numerous occasions when this sort of noise can be caused by a front QR too. 

Try removing the QR, clean it and lube the cam surface and re-fit, making sure it is fairly tight (Shimano say it should leave an impression on your hand when you close the lever). Also check and clean the fork-ends and hub faces just incase there is some contamination.

QRs were responsible for so many creaks and sounds that bikes came in to me for.

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Hedgemonkey [4 posts] 7 months ago
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If you can try putting the pressure down when riding with hands off the bars. The aluminium forks were acting like an amplifier, there was no noticeable play on the front QR, but once greased and really tightened, "Voila" a silent bike.

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Mark E. [10 posts] 7 months ago
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Sensatational ideas. Thanks. I am almost embarrassed by how much is going into this troubleshoot and suspect the answer will pop up eventually.

Time today to try some  more ideas out and test ride.

Fingers crossed.

 

M.

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Mark E. [10 posts] 7 months ago
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OK.  Ran down all the ideas mentioned.  Thanks.

Decided I would start some remove and replace-the most expensive last resort. My plan is to get good quality parts on a discount. So far so good.

So I started with a new chain. The old chain checked out as slightly worn but good.  The Tink sound is almost gone but starts/stops randomly.

Got a spare chain now.

I will ponder the next move.

M.

 

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kil0ran [924 posts] 7 months ago
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What happens if you put the bike on the stand with the chain on the largest cog at the rear and largest at the front and then back-pedal? Any kick from the rear mech? That combo puts max stress on the drivetrain and can show up a B-screw tension issue. Unlikely to encounter it when pedalling forward so really clutching at straws but rule it out..

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turnerjohn [51 posts] 7 months ago
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Have you tried cleaning your pedal contact areas and cleats ? Look are no toreros for clicking....sometimes they do sometimes they don't ! I spray a little GT85 and wipe...sorts it out !

also had a ticking noise that turned out to be the front skewer...bit of grease now it's sound .

feel your pain....ticking creaking is the most annoying part of cycling....other than the weather !

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philhubbard [144 posts] 7 months ago
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Have you tried tightening the gear hanger bolt? Also, grease the bolt and a little bit of grease on the back of the hanger between it and the frame

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matthewn5 [1204 posts] 7 months ago
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Hedgemonkey wrote:

Had the most annoying tink sound on my Whyte, replaced bb and spent ages checking thru the drive train, regreased, retorqued etc. Seemed to do it when the right pedal was on the down stroke. Eventually traced it to the front wheel QR, it really did sound like it was from the BB.

THIS.

Have you got lightweight aftermarket quick releases?
Ditch them and put on quality internal cam QRs. Fixed a noise I had.

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kil0ran [924 posts] 7 months ago
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We're getting to the earplugs and just ride stage now  1

The mech hanger one is a good suggestion, it ties in with my comment about back-pedalling and checking for rear mech kick as that's a good mechanical check for an out of alignment mech hanger.

 

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bobbydazzler [15 posts] 7 months ago
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I hope it's not, but have you checked the frame carefully for any cracks?

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Mark E. [10 posts] 7 months ago
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No visible cracks. QR ,Hangar bolt, cleats checked. I am sidetracked by the chain replacement lessening the Tink sound.  

I am looking to the Praxis chainrings as a possible culprit.  It occurred to me I did manage to have the 50 ring be slightly bent after a spill months ago,  which I righted easily with  an adjustable spanner. The sound started up as well  using the 34 ring much later.  Fatigue?

Going to the Internet to see if I can find a fire sale on some rings.

 

M.

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