[joemmo]

I’m a bit fed up of swapping tyres over on my road/cx bike so am looking at a second pair of wheels at the sub £200 mark – preferably low as possible. This really is a top limit, I know I can spend a bit more and get some better wheels ( I have some Hope / Archetype handbuilts) but these will be just for commuting, mainly. Weight is not a major factor, which is just as well.

So far, I’ve found the Shimano RX05 at £99, the Mavic Aksium disc at £130 and the Shimano RX31 on offer at £180. Is there anything else worth looking at in this limited range? RX05s are pretty tempting, I’m not afraid of cup and cone and bearings so how bad could they be?

cheers
Joe

Topic

[imajez]

BBB wrote: Bead security

BBB wrote:

Bead security issue? Plenty of people run 1″ ish slicks on 26″ rims at 100PSI and they are still alive.

I’m one of them. Used the Specialized 25mm Turbos on a variety of 26″ rims since the 90s without any un-seating problems. They were really tough to get on a few rim combinations, so zero chance of them coming off.

[joemmo]

Redvee wrote:It’s possible to

Redvee wrote:

It’s possible to go handbuilt for your budget too.

I picked up a pair of 29er wheels with XT hubs and no name rims for £85 with 2 pairs of tyres, one of which I sold for £30.

One word of caution for going the 29er wheel route is the rear hub width, MTB OLN is 135, Road OLN is 130mm.

cheers, just received my wheels from Merlin though… Road disc OLN is also 135mm by the way… unless its 142mm.

[Redvee]

It’s possible to go handbuilt
It’s possible to go handbuilt for your budget too.

I picked up a pair of 29er wheels with XT hubs and no name rims for £85 with 2 pairs of tyres, one of which I sold for £30.

One word of caution for going the 29er wheel route is the rear hub width, MTB OLN is 135, Road OLN is 130mm.

[fukawitribe]

BBB wrote:Slight

BBB wrote:

Slight misunderstanding. When I first replied I used external widths as this is what I believe most of people are more familiar with that, then I started quoting internal dimensions to be more precise.
I realise how wide “proper” Mtb rims/wheels are as I wouldn’t use anything narrower than 35mm myself but the ones within OP’s budget typically are ERTO 622-19C…

Aye, 622-19 would be great with 28mm tyres which sound a good choice for the OP.

BBB wrote:

As for Cannondale Bad Boys, 25mm is a stupid size (just a strong personal opinion) for urban commuting (or even training on some roads) regardless of the rim width.

I’d ideally not use 25mm for commuting either, but run 25mm Open Paves on 622-17 on the ‘road’ bike which come up a nice bit over 27mm and work well for general abuse on tarmac and light use off it.

[BBB]

Slight misunderstanding. When
Slight misunderstanding. When I first replied I used external widths as this is what I believe most of people are more familiar with that, then I started quoting internal dimensions to be more precise.
I realise how wide “proper” Mtb rims/wheels are as I wouldn’t use anything narrower than 35mm myself but the ones within OP’s budget typically are ERTO 622-19C…

As for Cannondale Bad Boys, 25mm is a stupid size (just a strong personal opinion) for urban commuting (or even training on some roads) regardless of the rim width.

[fukawitribe]

BBB wrote:The only

BBB wrote:

The only measurement relevant in this discussion is inner width measured at the the bead hook(s).

Precisely, so when you wrote

but look also at 29er MTB wheels. Many of them will have 25-26mm wide rims so no problems with using 25mm or 28mm or wider tyres.

..I said I really wouldn’t recommend it, and have been giving you figures based on internal rim widths ever since.

BBB wrote:

The new generation of 23mm rims measure around 17mm inside and the 25mm ones listed above have 19-21mm inner width which is exactly the same as many MTB XC wheels.

Most 29er MTB wheels have internal diameter much higher than 19mm, which is about as wide i’d feel comfy putting a 25mm tyre on and a bit more than recommended elsewhere.

[MKultra]

Having used a rigid MTB as a
Having used a rigid MTB as a commuting hack for many years I can tell you that you don’t want to mix a true 25mm tyre and a MTB rim.

You want to go up to a 32mm tyre, for those working in imperial that means go 1/4″ up from the rim size, clubman bikes stuck to this formula for decades back when 27×1 1/4″ was the standard.

For the nay sayers who think it’s fine – Cannondale made the mistake of using 25mm tyres when they first released the Badboy, they ended up having to provide replacement front wheels to a lot of people as a 25mm tyre on a broad rim doesn’t provide the air pocket needed to prevent dented rims if you hit anything like a pot hole, steel road plate, an out of place concrete edger, raised iron work etc etc.

[BBB]

The only measurement relevant
The only measurement relevant in this discussion is inner width measured at the the bead hook(s).
The new generation of 23mm rims measure around 17mm inside and the 25mm ones listed above have 19-21mm inner width which is exactly the same as many MTB XC wheels.

[fukawitribe]

BBB wrote:Someone tell those
[quote=BBB]Someone tell those guys they are doing it wrong! Their rims have the same or wider inner width that many mtb wheelsets (typically 24.5-25mm and 19mm inner)

http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/category/components/wheel-sets/product/review-hed-ardennes-plus-sl-47670/

http://road.cc/content/review/132864-spin-koppenberg-max25-25mm-wide-fat-boy-clincher-wheels

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/RIPXCT45CCL/planet-x-ct45-carbon-clincher-rim%5B/quote%5D

..perhaps you should try and understand how rims are measured… then review what i’ve been trying to say.

[joemmo]

thanks for the responses and
thanks for the responses and accompanying discussions :). I’ve ordered some Aksium disc wheels, should be here by friday so I’ll report back on them once I’ve had a chance to fit them.

[BBB]

Someone tell those guys they
Someone tell those guys they are doing it wrong! Their rims have the same or wider inner width that many mtb wheelsets (typically 24.5-25mm and 19mm inner)

http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/category/components/wheel-sets/product/review-hed-ardennes-plus-sl-47670/

http://road.cc/content/review/132864-spin-koppenberg-max25-25mm-wide-fat-boy-clincher-wheels

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/RIPXCT45CCL/planet-x-ct45-carbon-clincher-rim

[fukawitribe]

BBB wrote:I think it’s a

BBB wrote:

I think it’s a similar situation to running non-tubeless mtb tyres… tubeless with a bit of sealant, gaffer or Gorilla tape or split tube ghetto method. It looks and sounds dodgy, it shouldn’t work,

No, no it really isn’t similar…

BBB wrote:

Mavic says that it can kill you… (because they want you to buy their expensive UST rims and ignore what consumers really want) but… it works and plenty of people enjoy the benefits.

Nothing to do with their over-priced rims – it’s the tyre width they’re talking and they could have chosen any size for their new tyre with no additional cost to them. They have nothing to gain by choosing a particular width beyond technical merit.

BBB wrote:

Like I said before many people have been using narrow slicks with various mtb rims for ages and I haven’t heard any stories about spontaneous blowouts. What Mavic and many other companies say you can or can’t run is dictated largely their legal and marketing teams IMO.

The guys from Continental would be terrified if they knew that I’m running their 28mm (32mm) slick tubeless at 50PSI at the front… but I know it works

I really doubt they would – however you’re still completely missing the point but, hey, whatever – i’ll leave the thread and let the OP hopefully get some more useful information about what they actually asked about.

[joemmo]

antigee wrote:i wouldn’t be

antigee wrote:

i wouldn’t be afraid of cup and cone bearings just make sure plenty of grease in them and once a year replace the balls for just a few quid – sealed cartridge bearings are a pain to change in my opinion and not always sealed!

Thanks but I wrote that I’m not afraid of cup & cone bearings… 🙂
Have thought about the kinesis wheels but I’m really trying to keep the budget down. Plus there seem to be a number of reviews that say the freehub gets chewed up and they aren’t that well built.

[antigee]

£40 over budget? Merlin
£40 over budget? Merlin have Kinesis Disk specific wheels for £240 shipped – get great reviews

as to 29er wheels i went thru same loop when got a 2nd set for my CX style gravel racer/adventure shopper and concluded that plenty of people run narrow tyres on 29er rims despite contrary advice from some manufacturers and that i didn’t want to be the one person in a million who actually loses a tyre off a rim which would have pretty nasty consequences

2nd set well worth having by the way

[BBB]

I think it’s a similar
I think it’s a similar situation to running non-tubeless mtb tyres… tubeless with a bit of sealant, gaffer or Gorilla tape or split tube ghetto method. It looks and sounds dodgy, it shouldn’t work, Mavic says that it can kill you… (because they want you to buy their expensive UST rims and ignore what consumers really want) but… it works and plenty of people enjoy the benefits.

Like I said before many people have been using narrow slicks with various mtb rims for ages and I haven’t heard any stories about spontaneous blowouts. What Mavic and many other companies say you can or can’t run is dictated largely their legal and marketing teams IMO.
The guys from Continental would be terrified if they knew that I’m running their 28mm (32mm) slick tubeless at 50PSI at the front… but I know it works

[Author]

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