trying to upgrade…

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  • #29745
    sith64

    my wheelset.

    So I’ve been looking for a new wheelset for a while now, as an upgrade to my stock DT Swiss P1800 spline (about 1670 gm.) ones I’ve actually had nothing to complain about so far. I’m now just trying to get the overall weight of my bike down and get some aero gains while I’m at it.

    After doing a lot of online research and going through all of the wheel manufacturing brands I know, I’ve started to look into imported (that is, Chinese) carbon clinchers.

    I’ve come across a wheelset of ‘Farsports’ and one of ‘LightBicycle’. From both companies I haven’t heard all too bad experiences about their wheelsets.

    Farsport 38mm:
    https://www.wheelsfar.com/38mm-x-23mm-carbon-clincher-wheels-novatec-hub-sapim-cx-ray.html

    LightBicycle 45mm:
    https://www.lightbicycle.com/U-shape-45mm-depth-Hand-built-700C-carbon-25mm-wide-clincher-road-bicycle-wheels-for-tubeless-compatible.html

    For this wheelset I chose a Novatec hub, Sapim spokes and a Shimano freehub body.

    Does anyone have any experience with carbon wheels from above manufacturers? Any experience on the Novatec hubs that are used with the FarSports wheelset?

    Should I take the gamble and go for it? Any other suggestions? I ride non-disc, would prefer a clincher tyre and the region where I live has an abundancy of potholes and relatively small hills (say 0,5 – 1km climbs up to 10%) that I like to tackle.

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 24 total)
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  • #943707
    0
    Anonymous

    Its my understanding also

    Its my understanding also that U shaped or Toroidal shaped rims are better than V shape for aerodynamics, as well as correct tyre profile.

    #943705
    0
    sith64
    peted76 wrote:
    I’m with you sith64.

    I’m also close to pulling the trigger on either the 46mm or the 56mm LightBicycle rims/wheels (probably the 46mm ones as I think 30mm wide might be a fraction too wide for my calipers/frame clearance).

    I’m looking at the 46’s not the 45mm ones you have linked to as it’s now suggested that a bit V shape is better than the U shaped profile for aerodynamics. 

    https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-V-shape-46mm-depth-hand-built-carbon-road-disc-wheels—28mm-wide-and-tubeless-compatible.html

    I would suggest that it’s an ideal time to swap to tubeless also. 

     

     

    I don’t know actually, but I think it’s the other way around when it comes to V- or U-shape. Here’s a good quote on a thread I read:

    “I don’t know much of anything about the brand (FarSports in this instance) but as a general consensus in the industry the V shape is the old way of doing things. Once they got really serious in wind tunnel testing and such they found the U shape to be better. Now everyone’s adopting the U shape more or less. Usually the U shape rims are being made wider too which is a benefit.”

    This considered I am personally going for the U shaped ones.

    Tubeless I don’t know yet, I guess in time I’ll have to figure out and maybe give it a go. Anyway good luck making your choice and please let us know if you order!

    #943703
    0
    sith64
    Simon E wrote:
    Joe Totale wrote:
    TBF a shiny new bike or fancy new components such as wheels is often a good motivator in getting someone to ride more! 

    I suspect I’m the odd one out here. I am not really seduced by bling. I’m motivated to get out on my bike far more by half-decent weather, a new route or the knowledge that I’d enjoy it more if I was faster and fitter.

    Well everybody has his own way of getting motivated, but as long as it makes us ride the bike that’s all that really matters isn’t it! =)

    #943701
    0
    peted76

    I’m with you sith64.

    I’m with you sith64.

    I’m also close to pulling the trigger on either the 46mm or the 56mm LightBicycle rims/wheels (probably the 46mm ones as I think 30mm wide might be a fraction too wide for my calipers/frame clearance).

    I’m looking at the 46’s not the 45mm ones you have linked to as it’s now suggested that a bit V shape is better than the U shaped profile for aerodynamics. 

    https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-V-shape-46mm-depth-hand-built-carbon-road-disc-wheels—28mm-wide-and-tubeless-compatible.html

    I would suggest that it’s an ideal time to swap to tubeless also. 

     

     

    #943699
    0
    Simon E
    Joe Totale wrote:
    TBF a shiny new bike or fancy new components such as wheels is often a good motivator in getting someone to ride more! 

    I suspect I’m the odd one out here. I am not really seduced by bling. I’m motivated to get out on my bike far more by half-decent weather, a new route or the knowledge that I’d enjoy it more if I was faster and fitter.

    #943697
    0
    sith64
    Simon E wrote:
    sith64 wrote:
    Well yes I can definitely also improve my position and my clothes, but I think, mentally, a new set of wheels will have the most advantage for me. I’m not trying to reach 40 km/h average speeds but just generally want to improve my riding style and abilities.

    I don’t think some fractionally lighter or marginally better wheels can do that, I’m afraid.

    Following a training plan or finding a group to ride with and the motivation that comes with that will do far more for your ability and psychologically.

    I agree but I do know that I’m much more eager to ride my bike when it looks good and it looks as if it’s gonna be faster, so that to me is a plus, no matter what!

    #943695
    0
    Joe Totale
    Simon E wrote:
    sith64 wrote:
    Well yes I can definitely also improve my position and my clothes, but I think, mentally, a new set of wheels will have the most advantage for me. I’m not trying to reach 40 km/h average speeds but just generally want to improve my riding style and abilities.

    I don’t think some fractionally lighter or marginally better wheels can do that, I’m afraid.

    Following a training plan or finding a group to ride with and the motivation that comes with that will do far more for your ability and psychologically.

    TBF a shiny new bike or fancy new components such as wheels is often a good motivator in getting someone to ride more! 

    #943693
    0
    Joe Totale

    Given that these carbon

    Given that these carbon wheels are for rim brakes, I wouldn’t use latex tubes. Latex tube manufacturers as well as carbon wheel manufacturers both state that you shouldn’t use latex tubes with carbon wheels as carbon wheels are less efficent at dispersing heat than alloy ones. Latex tubes are more suspectible to heat than standard butyl ones and hence more likely to blow if the wheels get too hot.

    There’s plenty of people out there who still use latex tubes and carbon rim brake wheels but be careful. A tubeless set up would give you the same benefits of lower rolling resistance and would be safer. All those wheels you linked to are tubeless ready. 

     

    #943691
    0
    Simon E
    sith64 wrote:
    Well yes I can definitely also improve my position and my clothes, but I think, mentally, a new set of wheels will have the most advantage for me. I’m not trying to reach 40 km/h average speeds but just generally want to improve my riding style and abilities.

    I don’t think some fractionally lighter or marginally better wheels can do that, I’m afraid.

    Following a training plan or finding a group to ride with and the motivation that comes with that will do far more for your ability and psychologically.

    #943689
    0
    sith64

    Thanks for all of the replies

    Thanks for all of the replies, I’ve not really had the time to reply so far.

    Well yes I can definitely also improve my position and my clothes, but I think, mentally, a new set of wheels will have the most advantage for me. I’m not trying to reach 40 km/h average speeds but just generally want to improve my riding style and abilities.

    Will get into latex tubes and good tyres/pressure… on a new set of carbon clinchers 🙂

    Probably going for a Chinese rim (since I don’t really know Moriarty too well and Primes seem a bit more expensive) but with a trusty ol’ DT350 hub, so I know that at least I’m good there.

    #943687
    0
    Anonymous
    Simon E wrote:
    Good clothing and tweaking your position on the bike will do far more for your CdA than a pair of wheels, even if you spend double what you’re looking at now. The rider makes up 70-80% of the drag.

    Also +1 for BTBS’ suggestion of really good tyres. Add latex tubes, provided you don’t mind topping up the pressure every few days.

    Yup, a flappy jacket and a somewhat not so aero body position will outweigh pretty much everything else and more. Whilst we can’t always change our body position so easily, changing the clothing so it’s better fitting is very much doable, just depends on how far you want to go.

    #943685
    0
    Simon E

    Good clothing and tweaking

    Good clothing and tweaking your position on the bike will do far more for your CdA than a pair of wheels, even if you spend double what you’re looking at now. The rider makes up 70-80% of the drag.

    Also +1 for BTBS’ suggestion of really good tyres. Add latex tubes, provided you don’t mind topping up the pressure every few days.

    #943683
    0
    sith64
    BehindTheBikesheds wrote:
    Invest in the best tyres and tubes you can AND importantly setting your pressures correctly for your weight/weight distribution, you can potentially save far more effort/energy expenditure than for more aero wheels, weight is last in terms of performance ‘upgrade’.

    Noted. Thanks for your reply!

    #943681
    0
    sith64
    arckuk wrote:
    I’ve had a pair of the farsports 50 mm clinchers on Novatec hubs for nearly two years, and have done approx 10,000 km on them. They’ve been great in that period – they’ve stayed true apart from one slight spoke tweak, they ride well and (most importantly!) look good, and make a cool noise. At 50 mm, I can feel the effect of cross winds, but it’s not too bad. They weighed in at 1503 g without skewers or rim tape. The braking is good in the dry and okay in the wet, if you remember that you’re going to have to clear the braking surface before they’ll slow you well. I don’t tend to use the bike they’re on in the wet, however. I’ve replaced the bearings in the rear wheel once, as they were getting a bit rough, but are fine now. Note that you are likely to have to pay import duty on the wheels, which with handling fee and delivery charge adds to their cost. I can’t remember the precise amount, but think they ended up costing a bit over £500 in total.

    The Prime wheels look remarkably similar, although a little heavier at ~1620g (something you’d be unlikely to notice in practice) and 2.5 mm wider. At £500 including rim tape, tubes, tyres and pads, and the backup of UK based warranty they look to be a real bargain. Plus you can take the stickers off them. If I was buying again, despite being happy with farsports wheels, I’d probably go for these.

    Thanks for replying. I myself don’t usually go riding when I know it’s going to rain, so I’m good there. Yeah, I know the Primes look good, but so do the FarSports/Lightbicycle! I’m gonna just have to choose.

    #943679
    0
    sith64
    Joe Totale wrote:
    For any noticable aero effect the rims should be at least 45mm deep. Don’t be too hung up on the weight of the wheels as well, a stiffer set of wheels will be more efficent and get you up those climbs easier.  As the climbs in your local area are neither steep or long I’d prioritise an aerodynamic set of wheels. 

    I know a few people who have used Light Bicycle and all have been very happy with their wheels. The quality is as good as the branded stuff, the only issue is the waiting time for them, they can take several weeks to be built and arrive.

    Thanks for the reply. So, stiffness is key, got it. I can deal with waiting time, no problem 🙂

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 24 total)
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