Which bike?

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  • #29073
    RafatheRed

    Hi,After years of MTB i have now turned to road cycling. I made a massive mistake in buying the wrong size frame for my first road bike,however i have completed 3 sportives on it and have now decided to sell and buy a new stead. Im hoping to have £1700 to spend dependent on sell off curent bike.

    So im looking for comfort,disc and endurance riding.

    I have looked at the following rides –

    Giant Content SL1 Disc – £1250 -Love the colour and spec,but hate the look of the conduct system. Can i change this to full hydro?.Also cranks not 105

    Canyon Endurance AL Disc 7.0 – £1349 – Looks fantastic ,however im concerned with it as its an internet sale,no free service,what if it arrives faulty.

    Emonda ALR 5 Disc – £1750 – This looks a great bike which i would not have to upgrade,but is it ok for endurance riding?

    Giant Defy Advanced 3 – £1499 – Same brake system as Contend,Tiagra groupset

    Cannondale Synapse Disc 105 – Are theTektro Spyre-C cable actuated disc any good?

    Do i spend less and use spare cash to upgrade or spend more.

    My current bike is a CUBE ATTAIN SL – 105 throughout. I like 105 but is Tiagra ok.

     

    Thanks for any help

     

     

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 40 total)
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  • #930095
    0
    ericf

    I have the Spyre’s on one

    I have the Spyre’s on one bike. I hate them. They’re terrible.

    #930093
    0
    Graz_Lag
    SpikeBike wrote:
    Graz_Lag wrote:
    SpikeBike wrote:
    I can’t comment on the other bikes but I also have the canyon but the rim version. You just can’t beat canyon for value with full groupset. Could also look at rose and ribble even planet x but all doesn’t get around your Internet buy worries. If you do go for a canyon follow their sizing advice. It was spot on for me (although I did swap out the stem).

    In a sport where we like to measure down to the last Watt we gain with one tyre or with another, would you mind explaining how you can get the best out of your body by performing on a bike you have chosen on a chart sizing on the net ?  🙂 

     

    I am not really sure what you mean? You have to start somewhere with a bike and the frame is where you start especially if you can’t get access to it. Canyon have (probably) done quite a lot of work in taking measurements and finding the correct frame size for a person. So yes pick a frame based on the chart sizing and the inputted measurements. Following that change Seatpost height, fore/aft saddle position, crank length, stem length, stem spacers and handlebar width/drop.

     

    You will be hard pressed to find a bike/frame perfect for you off the peg unless you have one custom built for you.

     

    Sure, you start with a frame with horizontal top tube and forget the sloping top tube frames.

    For a road bike with horizontal top tube frame : Seat Tube H = 0.88 x leg inseam, which dictates the value for the most efficient pedaling.

    From there, it’s quite easy to determine the stem L, the seat post exposed L, the handlebar W/D …

    After the sliced bread, the sloping frame is the best invention … for the frame builders … and the worst for us, the riders … 

    #930091
    0
    Joe Totale

    I’m 6ft with 34″ inseam and a

    I’m 6ft with 34″ inseam and a M/L Contend with a 120mm stem is great for me. 

    #930089
    0
    Joe Totale

    I’m 6ft with 34″ inseam and a

    I’m 6ft with 34″ inseam and a M/L Contend with a 120mm stem is great for me. 

    #930087
    0
    cdean
    StraelGuy wrote:
    Don’t know if it helps but I’m 5′ 11″ with a 33″ inseam and the M/L was spot on for me. Plenty of seatpost showing but not too much. I’ve noticed you can generally divide roadies into two groups. Those who like to buy the smallest frame possible and have a foot of seatpost showing and those who are happier with a more traditional fit with maybe 6-8 inches of seatpost showing (I include myself in this group). 

     

    Tbh, my preference would be the M/L over the M but you won’t go far wrong either way.

    I’m 5’11” with a 32” inseam and I ride an M/L Defy Advanced. I checked the geometry against a fit I’d had on another bike and the M/L size came up closest. I have quite a bit of seatpost showing and a reasonable amount of drop to the bars (the tall headtube means the stem is slammed). I could probably do with a stem 10mm shorter than the stock 110mm (especially given the seeming extra reach of the non-series hydraulic shifters on last year’s model) but other than that it fits very well, so I wouldn’t have wanted to go to an M or L. Isn’t it usually easier to make a bike that’s slightly too small fit, rather than one that’s slightly too large?

    #930085
    0
    AfterPeak
    Graz_Lag wrote:
    SpikeBike wrote:
    I can’t comment on the other bikes but I also have the canyon but the rim version. You just can’t beat canyon for value with full groupset. Could also look at rose and ribble even planet x but all doesn’t get around your Internet buy worries. If you do go for a canyon follow their sizing advice. It was spot on for me (although I did swap out the stem).

    In a sport where we like to measure down to the last Watt we gain with one tyre or with another, would you mind explaining how you can get the best out of your body by performing on a bike you have chosen on a chart sizing on the net ?  🙂 

     

    I am not really sure what you mean? You have to start somewhere with a bike and the frame is where you start especially if you can’t get access to it. Canyon have (probably) done quite a lot of work in taking measurements and finding the correct frame size for a person. So yes pick a frame based on the chart sizing and the inputted measurements. Following that change Seatpost height, fore/aft saddle position, crank length, stem length, stem spacers and handlebar width/drop.

     

    You will be hard pressed to find a bike/frame perfect for you off the peg unless you have one custom built for you.

    #930083
    0
    don simon fbpe
    Graz_Lag wrote:
    SpikeBike wrote:
    I can’t comment on the other bikes but I also have the canyon but the rim version. You just can’t beat canyon for value with full groupset. Could also look at rose and ribble even planet x but all doesn’t get around your Internet buy worries. If you do go for a canyon follow their sizing advice. It was spot on for me (although I did swap out the stem).

    In a sport where we like to measure down to the last Watt we gain with one tyre or with another, would you mind explaining how you can get the best out of your body by performing on a bike you have chosen on a chart sizing on the net ?  🙂 

    Do what the pros do?

    #930081
    0
    Graz_Lag

    SpikeBike wrote:

    SpikeBike wrote:
    I can’t comment on the other bikes but I also have the canyon but the rim version. You just can’t beat canyon for value with full groupset. Could also look at rose and ribble even planet x but all doesn’t get around your Internet buy worries. If you do go for a canyon follow their sizing advice. It was spot on for me (although I did swap out the stem).

    In a sport where we like to measure down to the last Watt we gain with one tyre or with another, would you mind explaining how you can get the best out of your body by performing on a bike you have chosen on a chart sizing on the net ?  🙂 

    #930079
    0
    RafatheRed

     I think if i can afford it

     I think if i can afford it then my choice will be the Giant Defy Advanced 2.Any thoughts?

     

    #930077
    0
    StraelGuy

    Don’t know if it helps but I

    Don’t know if it helps but I’m 5′ 11″ with a 33″ inseam and the M/L was spot on for me. Plenty of seatpost showing but not too much. I’ve noticed you can generally divide roadies into two groups. Those who like to buy the smallest frame possible and have a foot of seatpost showing and those who are happier with a more traditional fit with maybe 6-8 inches of seatpost showing (I include myself in this group). 

     

    Tbh, my preference would be the M/L over the M but you won’t go far wrong either way.

    #930075
    0
    RafatheRed

    So I have contacted the shop
    So I have contacted the shop about sizing. They said the M/L will fit,however I checked out Giant website and I’m on the cusp of medium to medium large. Should I be looking at the medium size. I don’t want to buy the wrong size again. I’m 5’11 with a 32 inseam.

    #930073
    0
    RafatheRed

    So I have contacted the shop
    So I have contacted the shop about sizing. They said the M/L will fit,however I checked out Giant website and I’m on the cusp of medium to medium large. Should I be looking at the medium size. I don’t want to buy the wrong size again. I’m 5’11 with a 32 inseam.

    #930071
    0
    StraelGuy

    I’ve got the 2015 Giant Defy

    I’ve got the 2015 Giant Defy Advanced 2 and can confirm it can comfortably take 28 mm tyres but not with mudguards as well.

    #930069
    0
    CXR94Di2

    The Giant Defy Advanced 2-

    The Giant Defy Advanced 2- What about max tyre size width.  From what I’ve read 28mm is the maximum. 

    Are you going to want something that could take upto, say 38mm for the odd trail ride in the future?

    #930067
    0
    Paul7189

    RafatheRed wrote:

    RafatheRed wrote:
    Hi,yes I see it,love the colour of the Advanced 2. Same colour as my Giant Fathom MTB. Now do I speak to the wife……….

     

    If you contact them directly instead of through ebay they will proabably wave the delivery fee!

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 40 total)
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