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S-Works Tarmac with Standard Crank

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  • October 3, 2015 at 1:11 am #24882
    PaulNZ

    Recently brought a S-Works Tarmac which comes with S-Works FACT carbon, OSBB, 52/36

    Std rides this is fine no issues on the hills these rides are all sub 90k, shorter hiller rides are also okay even with 20% gradient I did my fastest time.

    Longer rides with more big hills I find I struggle when the gradient gets up around 10% I get left behind because I am struggling to turn the crank.

    I cannot afford to replace the crank yet so was thinking just change the cassette as it currently has 11-speed, 11-28t on it

    Is changing the cassette going to help at all?

    I am doing Genting mountain in Jan 2016 which is a particularly long climb and its a once in a lift time trip so don’t want to be failing because I cannot turn the cranks.

    I am assuming either a FSA SK Light or a Duraace Crank would be the best option as other components are duraace

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  • October 4, 2015 at 11:07 pm #861195
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    PaulNZ

    That again would be a LBS
    That again would be a LBS issue as they fitted me pretty sure its the crank think I will see how I go with Taupo which is 100 Mile and 2500 metres (not sure how many feet) and will give me a fair idea if I really need to change things around.

    October 4, 2015 at 10:33 pm #861193
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    allanj

    PaulNZ wrote:Any changes to

    PaulNZ wrote:
    Any changes to the cassette has to be done twice for two wheel sets also I am from New Zealand so you can tripple those costs.

    Actually the crank rings might be enough to get me spinning on those longer hill climbs.

    I am really confused on cranksets as this one says its 52/36 which is supposed to be a mid compact which is exactly what I have on my other bike and also has same cassette.

    But in reality it isnt the same.

    Hmmm. So same gearing on old bike, finding climbing harder on new bike? Worth getting your position on the bike looked at I wonder?

    October 4, 2015 at 10:09 pm #861191
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    PaulNZ

    Any changes to the cassette
    Any changes to the cassette has to be done twice for two wheel sets also I am from New Zealand so you can tripple those costs.

    Actually the crank rings might be enough to get me spinning on those longer hill climbs.

    I am really confused on cranksets as this one says its 52/36 which is supposed to be a mid compact which is exactly what I have on my other bike and also has same cassette.

    But in reality it isnt the same.

    October 4, 2015 at 6:05 pm #861189
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    allanj

    PaulNZ wrote: Disappointed

    PaulNZ wrote:
    Disappointed that the LBS didn’t point this out when I brought it as he sold me the compact Rival as well.

    That depends on the discussions that you had at the time of purchase, I have to say though if I’d paid that much out on a bike I’d be looking for them to be pretty accommodating when it came to doing some swapping round of bits to get simple stuff like gearing right! You say you got the bike recently- definitely worth a chat, you are the sort of customer they will want to keep.

    October 4, 2015 at 5:34 pm #861187
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    allanj

    Simon E wrote:allanj

    Simon E wrote:
    allanj wrote:
    you can just put smaller rings on your current set.

    But that only lowers gearing by 2″.

    A £50 rear mech means he keeps the same chainrings, cranks etc etc. Simplest option and significantly lower ratios, there’s no downside to swapping to a longer rear derailleur.

    A £50 rear mech (downgrade DA to Ultegra), £40 new cassette (and downgrade DA to Ultegra) and a £20-£30 chain depending on spec + labour costs.

    Sure- new rings won’t make a big difference but a simpler swap than all of that.

    Anyway my main point was to steer away from spending £400 on a whole new crankset that wasn’t needed!

    October 4, 2015 at 5:22 pm #861185
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    Simon E

    allanj wrote:you can just put

    allanj wrote:
    you can just put smaller rings on your current set.

    But that only lowers gearing by 2″.

    A £50 rear mech means he keeps the same chainrings, cranks etc etc. Simplest option and significantly lower ratios, there’s no downside to swapping to a longer rear derailleur.

    October 4, 2015 at 11:55 am #861183
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    allanj

    PaulNZ wrote: will just save

    PaulNZ wrote:
    will just save up for the long term plan which looks like its the FSA route.
    ll.

    I’m a bit confused about why you are thinking of changing to the FSA crankset- you can just put smaller rings on your current set.

    October 3, 2015 at 9:25 pm #861181
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    PaulNZ

    Thanks for the replies I dont
    Thanks for the replies I dont really want to mess with changing cages etc so will just save up for the long term plan which looks like its the FSA route.

    Will hit the hills more to build up strength but I am 48 so sooner or later I will need some granny gears 😀

    Disappointed that the LBS didn’t point this out when I brought it as he sold me the compact Rival as well.

    October 3, 2015 at 5:04 pm #861179
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    VeloUSA

    I ride a 2015 S-Works Tarmac
    I ride a 2015 S-Works Tarmac with Ultegra Di2 50/34 chain rings built up from a frame set. Understand the OSBB crankset spindle diameter is 30mm, Shimano 24mm. The FSA SL-K Light BB386EVO crankset will fit as is. With the DA, however, you will need adapter cups [picture a flat top mushroom] where the cup stems go into the BB and crankset mates to the top cap. My frameset came with theses cups but your LBS will have to special order these from Specialize as there not listed in the current catalog.

    Going to a 11-32 cassette requires changing your RD from your current DA to an Ultegra GS [mid] cage as DA RD max cog range supported is 28 teeth. You can get around this by reversing the b-screw and adjusting it ever so minutely to get the appropriate 32 cog clearance. I’ve seen this done but it takes a mech with good knowledge to do it correctly.

    Here’s the gear ration of 34 vs 36 chain rings to cassette cogs:
    28 cog
    34= 2.5
    36= 2.6

    32 cog
    34 = 2.1
    36 = 2.3

    Your best bet and cheapest option is compact chainrings, keep training and get better with your 11-28. If you rally need the extra granny gear you can always swapout your rear end with a whole bunch of choices ranging from Shimano 11-32 up to SRAM 11-42 cassettes. Good luck.

    October 3, 2015 at 9:30 am #861177
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    Simon E

    Swapping to a 34t inner ring
    Swapping to a 34t inner ring is only 2 teeth, which isn’t worth the effort. I’d fit a 11-32 cassette and Ultegra or 105 medium cage (GS) rear derailleur.

    More importantly, you should do more long, hilly rides to train your climbing efficiency and endurance (GCN video). Eat sensibly and make a conscious effort to hold back a little in first half. Start now. If you put in the effort you will improve.

    Hope you enjoy the event.

    October 3, 2015 at 8:50 am #861175
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    allanj

    Having had a quick look it
    Having had a quick look it seems to me you could go to 50/34 at the front just by changing your chainrings- both are 110 size. No need for a whole new crankset.

    October 3, 2015 at 7:00 am #861173
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    allanj

    I assume you’re thinking of
    I assume you’re thinking of going down to a 50/34?

    That’ll make a 5% difference in how easy it is to turn the crank, I’m not sure that’s worth the expense or hassle. Changing to an 11-32 cassette will probably mean a new rear mech and chain too.

    If it’s longer rides that you have an issue with I wonder if you’d be better looking at your pacing and fuelling over the ride. Simply- don’t go so hard and eat more!

    All the best for your ride in January.

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