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After some advice if you don't mind, I have recently purchased some TRP Spyres, this morning on my commute in whilst coming to a fairly gentle stop at traffic lights, I heard a click and now the rear caliper is not resetting/springing back? there is now play in the brifter two due to not resetting, is this symptomatic of a failure of some sorts has a spring or something gone? at work at the moment so I won't be able to investigate tonight.

 

I have ran discs for a while, hayes and Avids never had this before only two months old!

10 comments

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cyclesteffer [276 posts] 8 months ago
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Double check that one of your cable stops hasnt pulled out of position. It could be your cable outers are a bit too long, and its pulled out of place.

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DeeJayJay [40 posts] 8 months ago
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I had exact same issue a couple of months back. There are lots of threads about it if you Google it,  appers seems to be a common failure. You should be able to get it replacerd under warranty from where ever you purchased them from.

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BrokenBootneck [223 posts] 8 months ago
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Just had a look whilst on  a break, it looks ok, pads look a bit thin so i will change them tonight (note to self put spare pads in rucksack) I will just have to go home slowly! 

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amazon22 [279 posts] 8 months ago
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Make sure the cable is fixed below the bolt and not above.

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zefs [3 posts] 8 months ago
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Are you sure they didn't sell you the recalled ones? 

http://www.cxmagazine.com/trp-new-spyre-spyke-mechanical-disc-brake-dual...

 

The new ones would have the sticker on the 3mm alen bolt.

 

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BrokenBootneck [223 posts] 8 months ago
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Stuck new pads in all gravy now! It was the audiable click that intrigued me??

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TypeVertigo [400 posts] 8 months ago
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BrokenBootneck wrote:

Stuck new pads in all gravy now! It was the audiable click that intrigued me??

That happened to me at the front caliper. Really loud snapping click whenever I used the brake lever. Apparently I had worn down my front pads so badly that I was clicking the return spring sandwiched between them every time I braked up front.

Swapped pads, issue solved.

I've had some resistance of the actuation arm returning to open position before, and in my case it's the brake cables that are the issue (you'll know for sure if you remove the Spyre caliper from the bike and move the arm manually). Either the cables haven't bedded in properly yet, or the housings are dirty and need replacing.

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the little onion [169 posts] 8 months ago
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Had this issue - it was exactly as TypeVertigo describes. I put in new pads and the problem was solved.

 

The worry for me is that the brakes went from working fine to being completely useless almost instantly  - there was no fade in performance.

 

 

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TypeVertigo [400 posts] 8 months ago
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the little onion wrote:

Had this issue - it was exactly as TypeVertigo describes. I put in new pads and the problem was solved.

 

The worry for me is that the brakes went from working fine to being completely useless almost instantly  - there was no fade in performance.

Spotting the problem early means checking your brake pads' friction material depth regularly. Unfortunately one design bugbear I have with the Spyres is that wheel/rotor removal is required just to get the pads out for inspection or whatever. If you have a clamp-type workstand, fine, but if not, it's kind of a faff.

It might also be worth the little extra expense to move up to a (semi-)metallic pad compound, so it lasts longer before you hear the dreaded loud snapping of the pad return spring. Shimano have unfortunately discontinued the metallic versions of the B01S pad shape that TRP uses, but there are options from Jagwire and Ashima. (I'm also told that TRP's stock pads kind of suck.)

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StraelGuy [1042 posts] 8 months ago
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I have Spyres on my bike and I use the semi-metallic pads from Disco Brakes. They're 10x better than the originals, better braking and longer lasting.