- This topic has 48 replies, 35 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 6 months ago by
vonhelmet.
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November 11, 2019 at 12:10 pm #30263
cycle.london
What’s the longest feasible commute? My current run in to work is 10.2 miles door to door. I do that between three and five times a week, giving me between 61 and 102 miles a week. We’re moving outside the M25 in a couple of weeks, and although I’ve not done the run yet, Google Maps says 22 miles door to door, or 44 miles per day. Five days a week, that would of course be 220 miles a week, which I guess some of you probably do. For context: 52 years old, big bloke but moobs and a slight paunch are part of my world. Legs are strong enough, and lungs can cope with the current commute without any problems. Would it be a case of building up to it, or maybe do half of the journey by train? Are there any of you who do that many miles?
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vonhelmet
I have two lights front and
I have two lights front and back, one each with li ion which get charged at home or work as necessary, and one each that takes regular rechargeables. I also keep a full complement of alkaline batteries in my bag. Belt and braces and three sets of pants.crazy-legs
CyclingInBeastMode wrote:A Li-ion internal battery light can be just as effective, having to charge your light at work or at home is just like charging your phone.I used to keep spare charging cables at work – being in a desk-based role I set a calendar alert on my computer to pop up about 10am saying “charge lights?”
That way if I’d forgotten to get them off the bike when I arrived at work, I could just nip down to the bike store. you can guess why I set that reminder up – that sinking feeling as you get to the bike at the end of the day and realise you’re on the last remnants of battery!
Dynamo does do away with that but as mentioned above, they’re very inflexible and you still need back-ups. Apart from that one incident, I’ve always been fine with battery lights and becasue they get swapped around between bikes, it’s what suits me and my commute.
CAF2012
For routing, it can be useful
For routing, it can be useful to check Strava’s heatmap – for anything around London/M25 etc, it’s pretty clear where people are cycling. Not guaranteed to be lovely routes but probably not revolting.
I ride 22 miles in when the weather isn’t too foul. I leave early (6am) because I prefer quieter roads and take the train home, as I’m in by 7:30 I then get the train home before 4pm or after 7pm (cycles aren’t allowed on my line (Thameslink) between 4pm and 7pm). Depends on what I’ve got to do, being self-employed does give me the luxury of some flexibility.
Anonymous
matthewn5 wrote:kil0ran wrote:If you are going to do it budget for dyno lights or an extra set of battery lights (or even two sets). One at home, one at work, one on the bike – by the time you’ve done that you’ll probably find that dyno lighting is cheaper. Keeping lights charged for 3+ hours riding per day is a right chore.Exactly this. Dynamo lights are a must, invest in a decent front light with a properly shaped beam like a B&M Luxos/Cyo/Eyc or a Son Edelux. You’ll need the extra light and never run out of batteries.
Effective dynamo lighting is NEVER cheaper, it’s also inflexible if you have other bikes, having to then buy another battery light set or two as a just in case rather proves the point.
My own battery light set runs 14 hours on high which is good for mid 30mph in totally unlit conditions, 30 hours on the low setting which is fine for 20mph unlit conditions. The cost compared to an equivalent dynamo plus dyno specific wheel is massively in favour of having a seperate light, I use high end rechargeables but total cost even including a digital charger is less than one decent Dyno light.
A Li-ion internal battery light can be just as effective, having to charge your light at work or at home is just like charging your phone.
matthewn5
kil0ran wrote:If you are going to do it budget for dyno lights or an extra set of battery lights (or even two sets). One at home, one at work, one on the bike – by the time you’ve done that you’ll probably find that dyno lighting is cheaper. Keeping lights charged for 3+ hours riding per day is a right chore.Exactly this. Dynamo lights are a must, invest in a decent front light with a properly shaped beam like a B&M Luxos/Cyo/Eyc or a Son Edelux. You’ll need the extra light and never run out of batteries.
HoarseMann
For routing, I don’t think
For routing, I don’t think there is one platform that does it all. Komoot probably gets closest. But a combination of that along with Ride with GPS, CycleStreets, Google Streetview/Satellite view to check road classification, and crucially, cross-checking against the Strava Heatmap https://www.strava.com/heatmap#11.44/-0.09951/51.52752/hot/allWith that length of commute, you ought to be able to get a bit of variation with a few different route options to keep things fresh.
Shouldbeinbed
Yep as others have said, it’s
Yep as others have said, it’s doable and will probably become an enjoyable hour or so bookend to each day. My longest commute was a downhill in, uphill home 18 across Manchester and it both set me up and wound me down mentally for the bit in the middle.Just take getting into doing it at your own rate and treat it as the fun bit of the day, if it gets to be a chore or if you just fancy a day or two or… off riding then no biggie.
If it’s a nice sunny evening & you’ve nowt pressing then you’ll find having 40 odd miles a day in your legs means you can follow your nose for a few hours and have a nice evenings pootle without breaking much sweat.
jbw118
Perfectly doable, from
Perfectly doable, from personal experience always have enough food or money for food for the return journey. Nothing worse that literally running on empty on the way home! The man with the hammer can hit you pretty hard!
Oldfatgit
Last year I got the wife to
Last year I got the wife to run me in to work – 35 miles one way – on friday during the school holidays and I’d cycle home.
I was looking at train + bike – would be around 15 miles cycle – each way as a doable option (We have showers in the office) outside of the school holidays.
Circumstances beyond my control (an octagenarian Mondeo driver) unfortuately put paid to my plans before I could fully test them out.
I’m nearly 50, and at the time around the 16 stone mark. Was cycling 120 – 150 miles a week on club rides and wanted to shift weight, get the blood pressure down and spend the time unwinding from work – it would take me about 2 hours 30 mins to do the 35 miles, which I thought was too much. The younger, fitter 20mph average guys would have no problem with it – open roads, a few steep hills, mainly villages to go through; easy cycling compaired to a city.
Kendalred
[Image result for water
https://www.redbull.com/ie-en/redshark-water-bike
Gravesend to The City? How about this? And I guarantee you’ll not be close-passed once!
[Image result for water bicycle]
crazy-legs
cycle.london wrote:I love the advice being dispensed here, you’re top lads (and ladies). I just realised on the way into work this morning, that my original question raises another one. When you move to a new location, how do you plan your route, on roads that you’ve never driven, let alone cycled? In the past, I’ve tried google maps, ride with GPS, Strava, Garmin BaseCamp, God knows what else. Too often, I’ll end up cycling along the M20…. or I would, if I’d followed the route.FYI: I’m doing Gravesend to Bank Junction.
I’d break it down into chunks rather than try to calculate the whole thing in one go. Chances are there are bits of it you already know, especially in London? For the London bits, try and find a CSH. CS3 comes in from Barking and Q1 from Greenwich depending on where you want to cross the river on your way into Bank.
Then work out options around you – maybe a local cycling club can help with a quiet route from Gravesend to maybe Dartford, perhaps there are some options from Dartford to (say) Bexleyheath and so on. Work it in portions.
Note that various route planning apps / websites will send you different ways. Strava will use popularity so if you happen to go near a local TT course along a dual carriageway, it may well send you down there simply because it’s “popular” in terms of it being ridden hundreds of times. Doesn’t mean it’s any good though! Sustrans will forever be trying to put you onto a Sustrans path, even if that path has anti-motorbike barriers every few meters and is under a foot of mud for 9 months of the year. Some cycle computers, depending on their settings, may try and re-route you onto bridleways, cyclepaths as well so check that.
I like to segment the route so insetad of doing a massive 25 mile “create a route”, I get maybe five times 5-mile segments, each allowing me to tweak bits of it without affecting the rest. Problem is if you select “quietest” for a 25-mile stretch, it’ll end up being 35 miles as it tries to find every single quiet bit. Might be better off finding a “quiet” 5 miles then accepting as you get into town you just want to go “quickest” and segmenting the route allows you to do that. Then check out any major junctions on Google Streetview and see if you fancy riding them!
Riding the route on a weekend will really help visualise it and it’s good to take an A-Z (you know, one of those old fashioned things made of paper…) as a back up to help you see surrounding streets in detail. Sometimes a route planning app will do a right round-the-houses thing to go half a mile and looking on the A-Z gives you a better overall view than a 2″ Garmin screen. When I first started on an old route, the planning said to go on a “cycle path” through some council playing fields. Turned out that was slow, unlit, full of the local yoof and dogwalkers and actually it was only marginally shorter than just staying on the road and accepting the traffic.
Shades
cycle.london wrote:I love the advice being dispensed here, you’re top lads (and ladies). I just realised on the way into work this morning, that my original question raises another one. When you move to a new location, how do you plan your route, on roads that you’ve never driven, let alone cycled? In the past, I’ve tried google maps, ride with GPS, Strava, Garmin BaseCamp, God knows what else. Too often, I’ll end up cycling along the M20…. or I would, if I’d followed the route.FYI: I’m doing Gravesend to Bank Junction.
CycleStreets has served me pretty well; provides a ‘Quietest’, ‘Balanced’ and ‘Fastest’ route. Sometimes worth just scrutinising a section of a route; did that on a regular commute (that I’d been doing for years) and it found me an excellent quiet suburban shortcut that was a mile shorter than the bike path (which it always suggested when you looked at the whole route).
cycle.london
cougie wrote:cycle.london wrote:I love the advice being dispensed here, you’re top lads (and ladies). I just realised on the way into work this morning, that my original question raises another one. When you move to a new location, how do you plan your route, on roads that you’ve never driven, let alone cycled? In the past, I’ve tried google maps, ride with GPS, Strava, Garmin BaseCamp, God knows what else. Too often, I’ll end up cycling along the M20…. or I would, if I’d followed the route.FYI: I’m doing Gravesend to Bank Junction.
Google street view and Google maps should sort out most things I’d have thought.
There’s also a sustrans map that might be worth looking at.
But whatever I’d do a test run before needing to do it on a work day. You don’t want to get lost or find a problem on the route.
Looks like there is a sustrans route, but it heads south before following the A296. I’ll check out whether that’s worth the extra distance.
ktache
My routes have always
My routes have always developed over time.
To start off with it tends to be the most direct, then I will add in scenery and nature and remove nastier bits of roads and juctions. So often longer and slower but somewhat nicer.
cougie
cycle.london wrote:I love the advice being dispensed here, you’re top lads (and ladies). I just realised on the way into work this morning, that my original question raises another one. When you move to a new location, how do you plan your route, on roads that you’ve never driven, let alone cycled? In the past, I’ve tried google maps, ride with GPS, Strava, Garmin BaseCamp, God knows what else. Too often, I’ll end up cycling along the M20…. or I would, if I’d followed the route.FYI: I’m doing Gravesend to Bank Junction.
Google street view and Google maps should sort out most things I’d have thought.
There’s also a sustrans map that might be worth looking at.
But whatever I’d do a test run before needing to do it on a work day. You don’t want to get lost or find a problem on the route.
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