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Help please – Chain slipping badly when applying pressure

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  • March 9, 2015 at 8:39 pm #23453
    Haggisbasher

    Hello all

    Looking for some pointers/help.

    I recently measured chain and was shocked to see that after 8 months and 3000km the chain has stretched to over 1%. I replaced the chain, and when out riding I started to get terrible chain slip (not slipping up and down the gears) but riding over, i think the cassette. Prior to the chainswap I had no problems, hving been out in strong winds and pedaling hard.

    I thought the cassette might also be worn or the pawls so checked with three other wheels and cassettes, still same problem. Thought it might be a duff chain, so changed that, no difference. Thought on the off chance that all cassettes were worn, so bought new one (slowly, buying new groupset part by part here). I had a look at the front small chainring and it looks slightly worn but not bad. The slip only occurs when I am in the small chainring at the front and the 4-5 smallest gears at the back (yeah i know I shouldnt be crosschaining)

    Could worn jockey wheels cause the chainslip? (these are even newer about 7 months and are Hope jockey wheels) or is it more likely the front chainring. Options left are new derailleur or chainring.

    An thoughts greatly appreciated.

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Viewing 15 replies - 31 through 45 (of 54 total)
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  • March 11, 2015 at 10:21 am #835801
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    bigmel

    I assume the chain was on the
    I assume the chain was on the small chainring at the front?
    Hard to be sure without a side-on shot as well, but it looks like the chain is too long. You mention the problem is only on small/small combinations – this is when the derailleur has to flex right back to take maximum slack out of the chain.
    You still have 4 smaller cogs to shift to but the derailleur is already pretty much horizontal without much capacity left. As mentioned, it should look like this when on small/small.
    The derailleur also seems a too far rearwards. You are only on the middle cog yet it seems to be feeding onto the rear of the cassette.

    March 11, 2015 at 10:12 am #835799
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    Chris James

    I think the derailleur hanger
    I think the derailleur hanger looks bent inwards too. That would explain different shifting on the two chain rings as well.

    It is very difficult to eyeball, and the photo might be misleading. Do both the jockey wheels align exactly below the sprockets on the cassette? It is a five minute job at the bike shop to check it. 10 speed is very sensitive to hanger alignment.

    I have two kids and race cyclocross, so I am well used to the woes of bent derailleur hangers!

    March 11, 2015 at 10:03 am #835797
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    jacknorell

    Can’t say for sure without
    Can’t say for sure without photo from the side, but the derailleur looks to be in a very strange position and fully relaxed.

    Did you not shorten the chain correctly? Smaller chainring?

    No tension means the chain *will* slip on bumps… even small ones.

    March 11, 2015 at 9:24 am #835795
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    simon.thornton

    Have you thought of getting
    Have you thought of getting an allotment / taking up vegetable gardening instead ?
    Lots of fresh air / good company and no slipping chains.

    March 10, 2015 at 10:24 pm #835793
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    shearer27

    Looks to me like your chain
    Looks to me like your chain is too long? Derailleur looks too horizontal – it should be in this position when you are in the highest gear (small cog). It shouldn’t slip if you have a new chain and cassette. I blame chain length or rear derailleur set-up.

    March 10, 2015 at 9:18 pm #835791
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    Matt eaton

    Something looks a little
    Something looks a little wonky to me, maybe the derailleur has taken a knock and the gear hanger is slightly bent?

    Then again, it could just be a trick of the light or I might have my eyes in wonky.

    March 10, 2015 at 8:55 pm #835789
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    Haggisbasher

    Here is the rear view of the
    Here is the rear view of the rear derailleur. bike is ont a side stand so slightly tilted.

    March 10, 2015 at 8:43 pm #835787
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    Haggisbasher

    I have used 4 different
    I have used 4 different cassettes, three with less than 500 miles on them and one, brand new out the box. All on different wheels.

    Defnately only slips when out on the small chainring went out tonight and stamped on the pedal in big chainring rock solid.

    March 10, 2015 at 7:56 pm #835785
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    Simon E

    I wouldn’t rely on old
    I wouldn’t rely on old cassettes when troubleshooting – use a new chain and new cassette only, swap it between wheels.

    Why not get the mech hanger alignment checked at LBS? They did that with mine when I had rear shifting woes recently, it’s a 2 minute job.

    March 10, 2015 at 6:49 pm #835783
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    Haggisbasher

    Hello all. I really
    Hello all. I really appreciate the time that everyone has taken to respond to my request for help

    Tonight I am planning on setting up the bike on the turbo and trying to film the problem. I think I can rule out cassettes as I have tried 4 now ( 3 old and one new)

    Nor is it the chain, it’s non directional and all the speed links are new.

    It does not seem to slip in the big ring.

    So I have ordered a new dérailleur (being a muppet forgot the obvious and get a new hanger) and new chai rings, if for no other reason, to make most parts new. trust me this is hurting me as I don’t have cash to burn, but this is the first nice bike I have owned.

    So cabling, derailluier or chainring is left.

    March 10, 2015 at 6:30 pm #835781
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    Anonymous

    Did you remember to put the
    Did you remember to put the 10 speed spacer behind the cassette when fitting the new one?

    They don’t appear to Mavic or 11 speed hubs from what I can see in the picture, but if they did happen to be, you would also need the Mavic specific or 11 speed specific spacer too.

    The chainring looks to be okay condition, but have you taken them off recently? Those Shimano F type rings have an offset, so have to fitted the correct way round.

    March 10, 2015 at 3:04 pm #835779
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    Simon E

    Jockey wheels should last
    Jockey wheels should last years and work fine, even when worn.

    A chainring would have to be very badly worn for a chain to jump or skip. It won’t be the same as a cassette-chain mismatch (and the latter is far more likely).

    Are you sure it’s only on the inner chainring?

    If you’re sure you have replaced both chain and cassette then I’d look at the gear cable or the rear derailleur.

    March 10, 2015 at 12:20 pm #835777
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    bigmel

    If the chain is slipping up
    If the chain is slipping up and over the cassette teeth or the chainring teeth (i.e. not changing gear side-to-side) then the chain is not sitting in the teeth properly.

    Interesting that you say it occurs on the smallest cogs. These require the chain sideplates to sit in the gap between the cogs so that the rollers engage the teeth. A chain that was too wide won’t fit into the gap but you have checked that?

    A skipping new chain normally indicates that the cassette teeth are worn.
    If you also have a new cassette then look at the distance between the top jockey wheel on the derailleur and the cassette to make sure the chain is being fed onto the teeth properly with only a minimal gap between the jockey wheel and the cassette (look up the “B-screw” on t’interweb) and that the top jockey is not behind the wheel axle (feeding onto the back of the cassette so it only catches 2 or 3 teeth).
    Sometime the rear derailleur doesn’t pivot (rotate) fore/aft and becomes stuck – this will also lead to poor chain feeding.

    March 10, 2015 at 12:17 pm #835775
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    Nick0

    I’d suggest rechecking the
    I’d suggest rechecking the chain length first, try putting a bit more tension into the derailleur to close it around the cassette, and failing these replace the chain ring.

    Have you notice whether it’s front or rear slipping?

    March 10, 2015 at 11:45 am #835773
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    allanj

    Another vote here for
    Another vote here for potential cable issue- I had this, the chain slipping was in fact the mech moving around and trying to half change gear. I think this happened during big efforts as the rear end flexed enough to cause some cable movement. Shifting was also a bit of a pain at this point (but mostly OK), new cables made a huge difference .

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