log in
register

Help! Pedal stuck in crank

  • Creator
    Topic
  • March 15, 2014 at 7:52 am #20946
    jova54

    Hi. I need some suggestions on getting a steel pedal spindle out of an aluminium crank. Looks like it was put it with no copper slip and is now to all intents seized.

    I have tried the following; soaking in WD40 for a couple of days, soaking in ammonia for a couple of days; not at the same time 😉 , heating the end of the crank with an electric paint stripper.

    Apart from drilling the pedal spindle out does anyone have any other ideas?

    Prefer not to chuck it away as it’s the chainwheel spider crank.

  • Creator
    Topic
Viewing 8 replies - 16 through 23 (of 23 total)
1 2
  • Author
    Replies
  • March 15, 2014 at 11:38 am #780615
    0
    gnarlyrider

    Try soaking it in coke for a
    Try soaking it in coke for a few hours or overnight to dissolve the aluminium oxide.

    Then go with KiwiMike’s suggestion of stripping the pedal down and grabbing the spindle in a vice.

    March 15, 2014 at 11:06 am #780613
    0
    giff77

    I would definitely try shep’s
    I would definitely try shep’s approach first. An old engineer showed me that trick as well.

    March 15, 2014 at 10:44 am #780611
    0
    jova54

    Nick T wrote:You need a

    Nick T wrote:
    You need a solid, large, bench mounted vice, a pedal stripped to the spindle, possibly a length of pipe slipped over the other end of the crank and a lot of elbow grease and ignorance. It’ll go.

    It’s looking that way Nick T.

    I’ve got some punches so going to try that but I may have to take it to the garage and use their vice.

    Tried the heating trick too Sideburn but aluminium tends to become brittle if you’re too indiscriminate with the heat.

    Not my fault this one, just picked up a nice 1990’s Marin Nail Trail to restore and the pedal is the main problem. The crankset is a Whyte Industries original so looking to preserve it if possible. When the new pedals go back on the threads will be properly protected.

    Thanks for the suggestions guys.

    March 15, 2014 at 10:10 am #780609
    0
    SideBurn

    Another way is to heat up a
    Another way is to heat up a tool using a blow-torch and then putting it on/in the pedal. This works best if there is an allen key socket to put it in. The object being to heat up the spindle not the crank. Obviously do not heat up your best tools as this will not do them too much good!

    March 15, 2014 at 9:01 am #780607
    0
    Nick T

    You need a solid, large,
    You need a solid, large, bench mounted vice, a pedal stripped to the spindle, possibly a length of pipe slipped over the other end of the crank and a lot of elbow grease and ignorance. It’ll go.

    March 15, 2014 at 8:37 am #780605
    0
    KiwiMike

    Having had this happen twice
    Having had this happen twice on friends bikes which ended in dead cranks, I can’t wait to hear how you get on. If it’s a very posh crank you can helicoil it after removal should the threads be stuffed.

    This shows how to do it – $99 to buy the kit yourself, I’m guessing you won’t make this mistake again so maybe a good shop is the way to go – they should have these tools/inserts about. http://thegoldenwrench.blogspot.co.uk/2010/12/repairing-stripped-pedal-thread.html?m=1

    March 15, 2014 at 8:31 am #780603
    0
    langfordxc

    Try locking the pedal at 4 or
    Try locking the pedal at 4 or 8 o’ clock position (depending which side) and tap the end of the crank arm lightly, repeatedly whilst torquing the pedal – either with a spanner or large Allen key. The longer the spanner – Allen key shaft the better as this gives a lever arm. Remember one pedal has a reverse thread, so make sure you’re not tightening it. Should do the trick.

    March 15, 2014 at 8:10 am #780601
    0
    Shep73

    You need to shock the thread
    You need to shock the thread to break any adhesion, ideally a 8-10mm punch and an hammer. You don’t need to go mad but a few decent taps should release it.
    Don’t worry about damaging the threads as that takes some doing, even fine threads will withstand the impact.

    I’m a maintenance engineer in the car manufacturing industry and come across this a fair bit.

  • Author
    Replies
Viewing 8 replies - 16 through 23 (of 23 total)
1 2
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.