[roadbikepilgrim]

Hi,

One for the wheelbuilders out there…

I was in a crash with an SUV last June and badly buckled my front Shimano RS010 wheel. I put the trashed rim in the local metal recycling skip and kept the hub. I figure that a 20-spoke radial hub is a good and easy option for a newbie’s first wheel build.

My only problem is that on spoke calculator websites, I cannot easily identify the correct Shimano hub that was used in the RS010 wheel. I can find the DT Swiss RR 411 rim that I want, but I need to select the correct hub to get the right spoke length. The ERD of the RR411 is different to that of the RS010; therefore I cannot necessarily just reuse the spokes from the old rim

Does anyone out there know what hub was used in these discontinued RS010 wheels? There is nothing to indicate on the Shimano website for the RS010 wheel. The hub looks VERY similar to the Shimano Tiagra RS400 hub, but this does not mean that it is.

Any help you can give is much appreciated.

Cheers,

Roadbikepilgrim

Topic

[Creakingcrank]

So in an effort to redeem

So in an effort to redeem myself:

This useful wheel building database suggests a very high degree of standardisation for Shimanp front hub dimensions. It looks like you won’t go far wrong by assuming a flange diameter of of 38mm and offsets of 34mm. 

It should be quite easy to confim by measuring your hub. It’s a symetrical  rim brake front wheel, so the flange offsets with each be half the distance between the flanges (measured inside of one to outside of the other). And if you don’t have a calliper that can reach to the holes, the diameter should be the outside diameter of the whole hub minus 2x the distance from the edge of the flange to the center of a spoke hole.

[bobbinogs]

I have an RS10 rear wheel

I have an RS10 rear wheel that I keep as a spare for when my decent wheel/s get rebuilt.  I am sure it only cost £60.  At that price, I hate to say it but I would not even bother considering getting any part of it rebuilt unless I was doing it myself to learn wheelbuilding (I did this a few years ago on an old wheel and mainly learned that I was rubbish at wheelbuilding!).

[Creakingcrank]

Shimano does really good

Shimano does really good technical documentation at si.shimano.com.

Put in your model number and search, you should find an exploded view showing all the parts. For wheels, that pic has the spoke length on it.

I think this is your wheel:

https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/ev/WH-RS010-F-3687/EV-WH-RS010-F-3687B.pdf

Which would mean you need 278mm spokes. But check before purchase!

 

EDIT – but you you’ve changed the rim, so not so helpful…

[roadbikepilgrim]

Thanks STFD and Dnnnnnn for
Thanks STFD and Dnnnnnn for that input. I think taking hub and rim to a LBS sounds like a good plan.

[Dnnnnnn]

One other thing, and no

One other thing, and no reason not to give it a go but while a 20 spoke wheel is relatively indeed easy to put together, it’s also more sensitive to spoke tension adjustments.

Best advice is to take your time, perhaps doing the job over 2-3 sessions (the first for assembly and initial true), the second for checking your work, finer truing and stress release (the wheel, not you), and the third for final adjustment.

You might also like to use a little threadlock to help prevent spokes unwinding in use.

[ShutTheFrontDawes]

This is good advice. Another
This is good advice. Another option would be to buy the spokes from your LBS. Tell them you want to have a go at building the wheel yourself and take the hub and rim in with you. I’d bet they’ll sell you the right spokes because a) selling you the spokes is better than nothing for them and b) they know you’re more likely to go back to them if you can’t do the build yourself.

[Dnnnnnn]

Happy to be corrected on this

Happy to be corrected on this but if it’s a radial – and not a tangential – hub and you know the ERD of the new rim, I don’t think you really need a spoke calculator. Halve the ERD and subtract the small distance from the hub centre to where the spoke head sits. A millimetre or two either way shouldn’t matter.

[Author]

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