[zedthegreat]

Hi, hoping to use the hive mind here

I have a new bike, which has proper mudguard mounts in the usual places – bottom of forks, chain stays and behind the brakes (note, it is a rim brake bike). I am looking for some proper mudguards that utilise the mounts and give good coverage, but are not the almost permanent fixture many ‘guards are. I would like to remove / replace quicker, especially not needing to remove the callipers each time they go on or off.

Does anyone know of any fancy solutions, or recommendations of products that fit the bill? The only I have seen are these ( https://www.sigmasports.com/item/MPart/Quick-Fit-Mudguards/KFKU ), but they are quite expensive and I can’t see any reviews.

Cheers

Topic

[ChasP]

I suggested guards that could
I suggested guards that could be unclipped as that’s what was asked for but agree with the posts saying that permanent guards are better.

[Simon E]

ChasP wrote:

ChasP wrote:

I agree, with you both but was replying to what was asked.

Eh?

[kil0ran]

I can’t think of any “proper”

I can’t think of any “proper” ones that don’t use the caliper mounting bolt as a fixing point and tbh I wouldn’t want to ride with mudguards not secured there either. 

Possibly, depending on the fork you have, the ProblemSolvers Sheldon’s Fender Nuts might work, but only if you mount the mudguard to the back of the fork, and not if it’s a deeply recessed brake fitting like most carbon forks are.

Personally I leave mine on year-round now, I have some very nice PDW Full Metal Fenders that don’t look out of place on my “best” bike. They don’t rattle, don’t make wheel and tyre changes any harder, and in general sit there and look unobtrusive. 

https://ridepdw.com/collections/fenders/products/full-metal-fenders-road-size?variant=14871507238969

(available in black or gunmetal to match your build)

[P3t3]

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/mudguards/35mm-sks-stainless-steel-rear-mudguard-bridge-each/

[P3t3]

I assume this is a rim brake?
I assume this is a rim brake?

Stud the threaded eyelets for the stays and use wing nuts or ordinary bolts to save the threads.

Then use the brake bridge mounting for the rear guard that grips around the guard on front and rear. To remove the guards just undo the stays and the slide the guard out of the brake bridge mounts leaving them on the forks and rear brake bridge. Refitting is reverse of the process.

[RogerS]

I use SKS Raceblade  pro XL

I use SKS Raceblade  pro XL Stealth.

[ChasP]

I agree, with you both but
I agree, with you both but was replying to what was asked.

[Simon E]

I agree with bobbinogs.

I agree with bobbinogs. Anything fancy or clever will be expensive but likely poorer coverage and less robust. I’d go with full length chromoplastics (Tortec get my vote) and do it properly. Both you and your bike will stay cleaner and drier, and when the weather is changeable you won’t be agonising over whether to fit them, you can just hop on and ride.

A comprehensive list at https://road.cc/content/buyers-guide/17-best-mudguards-216720

If you have rim brakes you should check that the ones you buy have a brake bridge bracket on the rear. I picked up a pair in a clearance sale that didn’t and it rattles against the caliper over every little bump.

[bobbinogs]

The Raceblades are only the
The Raceblades are only the best of a very poor second choice. They do attach/remove easily but suffer from a major flaw which is that they leave the brake bridge exposed. This means all the crud gets dumped around the brakes to form a perfect grinding paste and wear out the rims. If the OP has mounts then I would get some decent guards and then fit/remove twice a year.

[ChasP]

SKS Raceblade long? They’re
SKS Raceblade long? They’re designed to fit behind skewers but you could maybe bolt to the eyelets. They clip to a bracket that stays attached to the brake bolts.

[Author]

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