[bigbaddewulf]

Hi, anybody running the above wheels tubeless? I’ve come across limited articles stating that they are but in general there isn’t allot of info out on the web about a tubeless setup.

If anyone is running these wheels tubeless please can you confirm what tyres and valves you are using?

I’ve bought a pair of Continental GP 5000 TL but can’t get them seal properly. (I haven’t tried using sealant yet because I’m not convinced that they are able to run tubeless.)

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Topic

[Jarmarshall]

Yes, the WH-9000s are

Yes, the WH-9000s are tubeless compatible… I’ve run the same wheel and tyre combination as you for years… but with the ‘upgrade’ to R-9100 Shimano seem to have abandoned tubeless, or come up with separate standard clincher and tubeless rims… vendor has just confirmed that these rims are not tubeless-ready…

[hogkite]

Not specifically the R9100

Not specifically the R9100 but I have run 9000 C24 tubeless without any issue for the last 4 years. I’ve used Schwalbe Pro One tubeless and currently IRC Formula Pro RBCC tubeless road tyres. Both sets of tyres sealed without issue on the C24s.

 

[Jarmarshall]

Tubeless wheels have a lip

Tubeless wheels have a lip that keeps the bead in place on the rim even as pressure falls… these ones pop off the rim as soon as the pressure falls. I’ve heard of conversion kits etc… are you suggesting building up the tape to achieve the same effect? Given it’s the front wheel and the speeds you can get on descents not sure I fancy improvising – seen one front wheel blowout on a descent in the Alps and it wasn’t pretty…

[oceandweller]

DuraAce wheels – & anything

DuraAce wheels – & anything else DuraAce for that matter – are way out of my league so I can’t really comment specifically, but I don’t see why they should be a problem. I’ve managed to install tubeless on all sorts of wheels, most of which were never intended to be run tubeless (or even predate tubeless being a “thing”). Very careful taping (& double or even triple taping if at first you don’t succeed) together with not over tightening the valve (just nicely finger tight please!) seems to be the key.

If the tyres won’t stay up without sealant, they won’t stay up with sealant either. Instead, take them off again (yeah, I know, a pain isn’t it? but the upside is, once they’re on & properly seated they’re pretty well bomb-proof) & redo the tape. It has to be *perfect*.

For the record I have a set of GP5ks on my best wheels, with H-Plus Son rims that were never supposed to be tubeless-compatible, & they work a treat, so I’m sure it can be done. Just keep at it. It gets a lot easier once you have the knack.

[Jarmarshall]

Did you get anywhere with

Did you get anywhere with this? I have the same issue on a WH-R9100 front wheel, bought as a replacement for a WH-9000 one… the old one was tubeless ready but, having tried to fit tubeless to rims that aren’t compatible (due to mislabelling) I’m sure the new one isn’t… this also explains the lack of a tubeless valve with the new wheel, which I was confused about… I think I recall now that there may be different rim designs for standard and tubeless clinchers, although why Shimano would do this I have no idea, and finding out exact model numbers is far from easy…

[Author]

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