[Alpine Scrumper]

Noticed that the rotor on my front wheel is sitting next to the outer brake pad rather than in the centre. The pistons are where they should be, nice and flush. Before I unbolt the caliper to move it slightly so the rotor is centred, is there anything I’ve missed?
The rotor is true and the wheel is def in properly, I’ve double checked. Just put new brake pads in and I want them to wear evenly and perform to their best.
Thanks

Topic

[fukawitribe]

Durianrider1 wrote:

Durianrider1 wrote:

So you spend way more on pads and rotors longterm. 

Bollocks.

[Liam Cahill]

I feel like I’ve had

I feel like I’ve had “lockdown boredom” for years now

[Alpine Scrumper]

Took the advice of
Took the advice of @panslanepaul and it took little time at all to tweak. Up and running like new

[TheBillder]

I was doing just this as you
I was doing just this as you were typing. Whilst the Spyres don’t feel as nice as the few hydraulic brakes I’ve tried on borrowed bikes, the set up is so, so easy (once you’ve found the adjustment screws and your 3 mm Allen key). It’s a really good piece of simple design.

[Durianrider1]

WELCOME TO HYDRO ROAD DISCS!

WELCOME TO HYDRO ROAD DISCS! XD

That is why I run cable discs on my high end gravel bike. Im over the faff or road hydro. That is why  (in private) 100% of world tour mechanics HATE road disc because of the extra faff and issues they have compared to rim brakes.

I use TRP Spyre SLC with compressionless housing. You can dial them in PERFECT in seconds as you can adjust both piston independently. With hydro you get sticking pistons and leaking seals. You can run the pads right down nor the rotors like you can with cable disc. So you spend way more on pads and rotors longterm. 

[Panslanepaul]

Slacken the caliper bolts,

Slacken the caliper bolts, hold the brake on tight, re-tighten the caliper bolts, release the brake. Almost takes longer to type than to carry out. I have to do this front and rear when swapping wheels and it really takes no time at all.

[hawkinspeter]

Double check that the thru

Double check that the thru-axle is properly tightened etc. and then go for re-aligning the caliper. It’s easy to do, but can be fiddly to get the caliper just right if it moves when tightening the bolts. Probably a ten minute job.

[crazy-legs]

What brakes are they? If they

What brakes are they? If they’re hydraulic, they should be self centre-ing unless one of the pistons is seized or sticky.

If they’re cable, some types of cable brake only pull one half of the caliper, it relies on a bit of flex in the whole system to push the rotor into the other pad.

If the former, depending on the brake you might find it needs a complete overhaul with new seals around the piston. Or, if it’s just been knocked a bit you might just need to loosne the bolt, pull the brake hard on to centre the caliper and retighten.

[Miller]

I’d only bother doing

I’d only bother doing anything if the rotor is rubbing on a pad. If it’s quiet, leave it be. You could always take the pads out and turn them round at some point.

But maybe you’re lockdown bored and need something to do in which case go for it.

[Author]

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