Support road.cc

Like this site? Help us to make it better.

Di2 shifting problem

I bought the RD-R8000GS (medium cage) a couple of months ago because I thought my RD cage was bent, and I also wanted to run bigger cassettes, and my RD hanger was not bent, so had to give it a try.

The rest is ST-6870 groupset with the SM-EW90 ans SM-BTR1 battery.

 

The RD dont want to move all the way out or in. It wont slightly overshift into the smallest cog even if the limit screw is all the way out. It wont shift properly up the cassette either. When it comes to the largest cog (32t) it wants to shift another gear up, wich means chain going over the top and into the wheel. When the H limit screw is set properly to not overshift on the 32t, the RD just tries and tries until it gives up shifting and shifts back half a cog. The microadjustments is set to 0 (16).

So I cant move the RD properly down the cassette it seems like. If i set the microadjusts to maximum the 11t is ok, but not the rest, since the H limit is not OK. Tried to hold the button on the SM-EW90 and let the gears cycle through, since its the only function part from the microadjusts I belive. 

Visited the local shop (not a proper shop, a "we have everything and its cheap", so dont trust the mechanichs there that much, but I asked them to upgrade mye firmware, and it did not return any error codes either. The e-tube chart I think say my battery is not compatible but, the problems was there on the RD-6870 too. 

 

Any ideas?? Thanks

If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.

Add new comment

25 comments

Avatar
joachimvadseth | 4 years ago
0 likes

I just discovered that when shifting up and down (mostly when at the top or bottom, not so often in the middle of the cassette) that the ew90 junction box is lighting up green, then both red and green LEDs for some seconds. For instance when trying to shift into the 32t (the Di2 thinks there is one more cog, but it isnt, and limitscrews are set just so).

Avatar
joachimvadseth | 4 years ago
0 likes

I did replace my hanger when I bought the new R8050. Also replaced it earlier when I ran the 6870. 
 

Guess I have to spend my christmas salery on a charger..

Avatar
Pilot Pete replied to joachimvadseth | 4 years ago
0 likes

joachimvadseth wrote:

I did replace my hanger when I bought the new R8050. Also replaced it earlier when I ran the 6870. 

Guess I have to spend my christmas salery on a charger..

Just because a hanger is new doesn’t mean it doesn’t need aligning. I’d certainly check it with the right tool.

PP

 

Avatar
quasijones | 4 years ago
0 likes

When I installed Di2 on my bike I had the same issue.  A replacement hangar fixed it instantly.

Avatar
Pilot Pete | 4 years ago
0 likes

You say that t he hanger is not bent. Have you used a hanger alignment tool to confirm this? That’s where I would start. Even a slight bend can throw your micro adjustments way out.

You should also check that you are somewhere in the middle of the available micro adjustments and then fine tune from there - if you are at one extreme you may find you are actually on the wrong cog at the back (one cog out of where the derailleur should be).

As for not getting the cross-chaining combinations, that is indeed a feature which can be changed using the E-TUBE software. As others have said you will need the charger, cable and a windows based pc/ laptop to access it. I would get this kit and ensure all the firmware for each component is up to date and then get into the settings to change your configuration.

It can be done wirelessly from a tablet with the Bluetooth sender somewhere in your wiring circuit - the EW-WU111. I would however just check the compatibility chart here https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-CC.3.2.0-01-EN.pdf to make sure everything is compatible before splashing out on one.

I use the Bluetooth sender but merely for linking to my Garmin. I do not use it for firmware updates via my iPad run E-TUBE app as I have heard of people struggling to get that to work properly - the charger linked to my windows pc works fine every time for those.

PP

 

Avatar
kil0ran replied to Pilot Pete | 4 years ago
0 likes

Pilot Pete wrote:

It can be done wirelessly from a tablet with the Bluetooth sender somewhere in your wiring circuit - the EW-WU111. I would however just check the compatibility chart here https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-CC.3.2.0-01-EN.pdf to make sure everything is compatible before splashing out on one.

 

 

WU111 won't work with OP's battery and battery holder - his system only supports the EWW01, which doesn't work with the tablet app.

Avatar
joachimvadseth | 4 years ago
0 likes

That was whst I did yesterday. Started sll over with basic setup. 
 

I thought that it might was bent because Ive had some wierd clicking noises for some years, like the chain was not aligning properly on the lowest pully. Ive never had a crash. Bike have fallen over some times ofc but it has usealy been the shifters snd handlebars/crsnk arms who have taken the fall. 
 

I do have a slightly well used crankset tho. Chain snd cassette is almost new. Tried switching the chain around but no change. Tried an older cassette too. 

Avatar
CXR94Di2 | 4 years ago
0 likes

Go back to the basic setup. Place setup up mid cassette, ensure the derailleur is on the correct gear. With micro adjustment align chain by closely observing chain position. The setup shouldn't be more than a few clicks either side of zero.

You mention 16 in micro adjustment which indicates, the cassette is either in the wrong position or the hanger is at problem. Why did you think your original derailleur was bent, have you had a crash?

Avatar
kil0ran | 4 years ago
0 likes

Something like this is probably your best option - if you've got a Windows laptop

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shimano-SM-PCE1-PC-Interface-Device-for-hire-...

 

Avatar
kil0ran | 4 years ago
0 likes

Is your battery definitely a BTR-1? Because if so you need the much more expensive SM-PCE1 charger to use eTube for firmware updates/resets, the BCR2 won't work:

See:

Note 6 – SM-BTR1 External Battery and SM-BMR1 Mount firmware updates: The more expensive dedicate service tool (SM-PCE1 PC Interface) must be used to upgrade the firmware on the external battery/mount.The external battery and battery mount can not receive firmware upgrades via the SM-EW90 Front Junction A and the SM-BCR2 PC Interface/Battery Charger. (The SM-EW90 will work in a system with an external battery, but a firmware update can cause them to become incompatible until both are updated independently using the appropriate PC Interface and the Shimano E-Tube Project software.)

from http://carltonbale.com/shimano-di2-everything-you-need-to-know/comment-p... (search BTR1)

Avatar
Judge dreadful | 4 years ago
0 likes

It's avoiding cross chaining, as it's programmed to do. Update the firmware, and see what happens.

Avatar
joachimvadseth replied to Judge dreadful | 4 years ago
0 likes

Judge dreadful wrote:

It's avoiding cross chaining, as it's programmed to do. Update the firmware, and see what happens.

 

Fw was updates previously. Font think its avoiding cross chaining since the RD isnt moving enough down snd moves too much up. 

Avatar
joachimvadseth | 4 years ago
0 likes

Is this something than can plug into the EW90? 
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk...

Avatar
hawkinspeter replied to joachimvadseth | 4 years ago
0 likes

joachimvadseth wrote:

Is this something than can plug into the EW90? 
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk...

No - that looks like a standard usb-micro cable.

I think you need the SM-BCR2 battery charger (see pic below) which you can usually pick up for around £50 on EBay. The SM-BCR2 converts a usb-micro cable into the proprietary Di2 port connector (I think it also changes the voltage) and also doubles as a PC-USB-Di2 adapter.

 

Avatar
joachimvadseth | 4 years ago
0 likes

I only have the dedicated charger for the battery, not the USB-one. 

Avatar
kil0ran | 4 years ago
0 likes

Could be Gear Position control

https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/about/gearpositioncontrol.html

"NOTE

If you use combinations of front and rear derailleurs besides those recommended, the shifting-restricted range may become larger.
Restrictions on gear position can be disabled via the Customize menu in E-TUBE PROJECT. (Restrictions cannot be disabled for 52–36T or 50–34T.)"

Although I don't recall ever having that on my 6870 system. 

As our squirrely friend notes, if you have the right battery charger you can download eTube software and tinker around with the settings. You can also do firmware updates using it. Need a Windows laptop though. 

When doing firmware updates just make sure you do the battery first, then the battery holder, then the shifters, and then ideally front mech before rear mech. If it doesn't solve it I'd look at potentially trying the latest external battery holder - BM-DN100. Maybe order it from somewhere that offers free returns. You'll also need the little cable fork - TL-EW02

Avatar
hawkinspeter | 4 years ago
0 likes

Have you got the charging adapter for the Di2 system i.e. the box that looks like a small power supply but with a usb socket on it and a cable that plugs into funny Di2 connector? If so, and you have access to a suitable Windows laptop then you can download and install the ETube software from Shimano (https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/). Connect the Di2 charger to a USB cable connected to the laptop and you should then be able to configure your Di2 system (including upgrading firmware etc).

Avatar
joachimvadseth | 4 years ago
0 likes

Yea, how do I do that? 

Im the bike first owner. Its a Gavia Zoncolan SR2 sold by bikeshop.no in 2014 I think. 

It came with the SM-EW67 y-box, but thought that might cause the problems so I bougth the SM-EW90 box. Not that keen on spending more money to try to fix this issue with a new battery I just say.. But it will maybe rule out some factors tho. 

Avatar
kil0ran | 4 years ago
0 likes

Just checked and the BTR-1 is listed as compatible with R-8050

https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/lc/ultegra_r8050/2x11

So that I think rules out any Di2 incompatibility. Not sure how you got about doing a hard reset on a Di2 battery but that's what I'd start with if it's possible.

Avatar
kil0ran | 4 years ago
0 likes

The BTR-1 doesn't support any of the new intelligent features like syncro-shift and cross-chain avoidance. That might be why it isn't listed as compatible with the R8000. 

Shimano also made changes with R8x Ultegra around chainline and in particular front mech position (2.5mm further out) but that doesn't explain why there was also an issue with 6870

What bike is it? Was it supplied with 6870 Di2? Are you the original owner?

When I ran 6870 I recall I ended up using the internal battery (the seatpost one) coupled with the external battery case from the XTR Di2 range. What I can't remember is why - might have been compatibility, might have been thinking of future-proofing the system as I planned to get a new frame and go fully internal. 

Also, all the logic and "intelligence" for Di2 is stored in the battery. If you're not the original owner it might be worth getting your bike shop to do a hard reset on the battery. Another option is to pop along to a local club who might have someone who can lend you the full diagnostic kit. I've also seen people renting it out on eBay.

Edit: Actually the BTR-1 can do synchro shift, but you need the latest external battery mount (BM-DN100)

Avatar
joachimvadseth | 4 years ago
0 likes

Well, I tought of betting the PC-kit or bluetooth-kit to solve this but it is SO GOD DAMN EXPENSIVE and it may not work either! 

But your idea/solution seams possible. However it will shift down to the smallest cog (and stop on the #9 or something when in the little ring), but it wont shift far enough down, and it shifts too far up on the 32t. 

I asked the bikeshop where I bought the bike if they could lend me the equipment, but they said no. The shop is 600kms away so. 

Avatar
MattieKempy | 4 years ago
0 likes

I had a similar problem: new RD8000 rear mech not shifting into the smallest two gears. I tried the hanger (it was fine) the b-screw (it was fine) the high and low limit screws (they were fine) and in the end took it to my LBS (not a cheap and nasty one) who didn't fix it either. Turns out my problem was with the íntelligence' of the rear mech, which for some reason is programmed not to shift into the smallest gears when in the inner ring up front. 

However, changing the settings file on e-tube (I use the app not the computer as I don't have a Windows computer) solved the issue. I changed it so that the 'brain'thinks the bike is running 53/39 and 11-25, putting the gear settings into 'not fixed' and the problem has gone away. It's actually running 52-34 and 11-28, which apart from the odd clunky front shift, works just fine. I haven't tried changing the front ring settings to 52-36 yet to see if that works, but will do.

To get the settings files to save you have to first save them to the app, then drag them to the bike (it'll make sense if you have the app) for them to load. I'm not sure how  you'd do it with the computer programme but I'm sure you can work it out.

Hope this helps.

Avatar
joachimvadseth | 4 years ago
0 likes

I tried two different cassettes and wheels. No spacers behinde it. The problem is also on my KICKR. 
 

If you're refering to page 44 in that manual it isnt a big help, is it. Maybe I can try to remove the RDs extended hanger? 

Avatar
Pilot Pete | 4 years ago
0 likes

Have you followed the dealer manual instructions for setting up the rear derailleur? https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-R8050-01-ENG.pdf

Sounds like an adjustment issue to me...

PP

Avatar
Welsh boy | 4 years ago
0 likes

It sounds like your cassette is not aligned to your rear mech. Have you got any spacers fitted behind the cassette?

Latest Comments