Starting Cycling

Justin, never a bad idea to spend a few hundred quid on something second hand, find out what you really want in a bicycle, and what type of riding you really like.

Priority should be to see if you can use The Cycle to Work scheme to get a lot more bang for your buck. Next I would suggest to review your overall budget, from this deduct enough for essentials of shoes, shorts, jersey, multitool etc and spend the rest on the bike. Use a smart phone app to start with your tracking.

What type of riding do you want to do or, put otherwise, what are you going to use the bike for?  A commuting bike is not a race bike, is not a mountain bike.  The more specialised the tool, the less versatile it becomes.  Your budget will get you a good bike with reasonable components.  

I can understand the navigation and tracking equipment that you want to get, for the power meter I'd wait if I were you, you don't need it when starting out and a good one costs a healthy chunk of cash, easily half of the budget for your bike, there's little sense in that.  Anyway, using a decent navigator/cadence sensor and heartrate strap you'll already obtain lots of performance data and progress will be measurable (if you actually ride the bike, of course, which is another reason why it's better to invest in a bike that you'll actually ride rather than in a bike with power meter that'll sit in the shed because you don't like how it behaves).

Great decision! 

Quote a few people make it, but rush out with some ill-advised / exotic purchase that then becomes shed clutter three months later.  I’m assuming you want to do road riding.  I don’t know whether you live in the fens, London or the Peak District.  

You’ll need to work out where and when you’re going to cycle. You’ll develop a handful of local loops from your house.  What local cycling groups have you got around you?  If you’re able to, start some basic work on your core muscles this summer. 

When I got back into cycling in my 40s, an 11 mile one hour ride on flat roads would put me on the sofa for the rest of the day. So while you want to stretch yourself, like all things build up slowly and don’t give yourself the grotty experience of having nothing left in the tank miles from home and with dark, cold  or rain closing in. There’s a good reason why group rides start at 9 am.  I used to try to follow bus and train routes and carry a cafe lock, just in case I clapped-out, which I never used. You may get saddle sore to begin with and there are preventative creams for that.  

A couple of bike picks of mine to whet your appetite:  Genesis Delta 20 and Ribble Endurance AL Disc. You don’t want something too twitchy and super-fast. You probably do want something that can mount mudguards for that autumn riding.  If things go well, this first bike could become your second bike in due course - most people have a winter bike and a “best” bike.  My two picks, and there’s plenty more to choose from,  are aluminium frame with carbon forks, representing a value for money combination. The Ribble 725 is nice too, but I’m a steel affencionado. 

 I’ve left you some £££ leeway for some accessories - like cycle clothing. My wife thinks my padded pants are the worst, but you’ll need these to keep out the cold, a “base layer” top, suitable for the season, and your pick of shorts, 3/4 length or full length tights, and a couple of jerseys or gilets to layer up. Don’t try to ride these bikes for any distance in jeans, trainsers and a t shirt.  Ordinary clothing flaps, chafes and will give you a chill when it gets clammy.  +Helmet, gloves, glasses. It’s miserable being cold,  but also bear in mind on a chilly  morning that you’ll warm up.  Look after your extremities in the cold  - e.g. over-socks for your feet, a buff around your neck. There’s a  long whaleback ridge near me that I often cross and it’s always a couple of degrees colder on the far side.

I can’t advise on power meters, computers,  etc. A GPS ‘phone will do a lot of the time and distance tracking for you with minimal outlay - get a backup battery for it. ViewRanger is a favourite app of mine as it will help you plan, navigate and track if you buy your local OS mapping and it doesn’t rely on always having  a signal.  There’s lots of advice out there about specific training regimes and drills if you’re that way inclined. 

As I’ve improved, I’ve been raising my saddle - it’s as though my legs have got longer. Buying from a shop might be good for you as they’ll help you get set up with the right size of bike. You don’t want a set-up that’s too long for you, or that is making you bend too low to reach the brake hoods - sitting on the bike and putting your hand on the handlebars should be a natural act for you, not too much of a stretch. 

You’ll  also want some cycling shoes and mostly it’s clipless pedals - try to start with dual sided SPD pedals: Shimano M324 is a favourite of mine while you get used to the bike. Unclipping will take a bit of practice and most of us have gone over sideways  at some point.

On any new bike, various bolts will come loose in the first few weeks, and your cables will stretch so be prepared for all that. This includes the bolts in your shoes that hold the cleats - if clipping/ unclipping isn’t snappy, loose bolts are a likely cause. 

You”’ll need some kind of bag for your spares (SKS saddlebags are a favourite of mine).  Your basic kit will include a pump, puncture kit, multi tool, two spare inner tubes, model maker’s pliers, and in your pocket an extra water resistant layer to put on. Don’t forget some fluids and something to eat.  Are you sure that village stores is open on a Sunday?

 You’ll want some items for home - wet lube, dry lube, track pump, work stand, a collection of standard  and bike specific tools that will grow.

good luck!