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Finding it hard to shift to larger cogs on cassette but shifting to smaller ones is fine.

So far Ive checked - 

Cable and housings

limit screws properly set

Different derailleur fitted (no improvement)

New cassette fitted (was worn anyway)

New chain fitted (was worn anyway)

Chain length correct

B screw adjustment

Hanger alignment correct

Jockey wheel replaced with correct upper / lower

 

The only other thing I can think of is my shifter / STI lever is worn, but before I think of replacing it can you offer any other suggestions?

15 comments

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CXR94Di2 [2315 posts] 5 months ago
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When the derailleur is on the 11t cog, does the cable have any slack? The cable should be taught(tight). If there is slack then loosen the cable grip, with pliers pull the cable to apply tension and retighten the grip bolt. You should then be able to move the derailleur upto the middle of the Cass. With the inline adjuster on the derailleur turn to align the chain so that gear changes are crisp and there is little noise. Once you've done that go to adjust the end stops H/ L so chain doesn't go too far at either end of cassette. The B screw only needs to be adjusted if the top gear(easy) is catching the derailleur

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DaSy [865 posts] 5 months ago
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You say it is hard, but in what way? Can you just not push the lever, or does the lever move but no movement at the deraileur etc?

I would try to isolate the issue by putting the bike in a stand and then;

Try to manually push the deraileur across the cassette whilst rotating the cranks. If that works (ie, you can get it to span the full cassette with no great effort), you know it's not the mech or its limit screws.

Then, if you have exposed inner cable running along the chain stay or down-tube, grab that and pull it, again whilst rotating the cranks. If that works, you have reduced the issue to the last section of cable inner/outer and the shifter.

 

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kil0ran [1194 posts] 5 months ago
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Which shifters?

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bechdan [182 posts] 5 months ago
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CXR94DI2 - thanks for the reply but thats not helpful here im way past that stage

DaSy - thanks - yes its not hard as in firm but wont shift immediately or has to be hypershifted, derailleur moves fine so yes probably shifter then

Kil0ran - some well used shimano sora 9spd, its on my all purpose hack so im begrudged to buy new ones, I was hoping that somone might say something Id overlooked

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PRSboy [361 posts] 5 months ago
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I would disconnect the cable at the RD and click up and down the shifter whilst pulling on the end of the cable, to see if you are getting a noticeable and linear movement of the cable on each click.

This might give you an idea as to whether the shifter is working as it should.

Have you changed the cable inners and outers, or just checked them?

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graybags [101 posts] 5 months ago
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Sounds to me like a shifter issue, I found with my Campag Centuaur shifters that I could shift to larger cogs one by one but when releasing tension to move to a higher gear I would find myself changing 3 at a time, in my case my LBS sent it back to the importers who did a full refurb and all is now well.

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StraelGuy [1602 posts] 5 months ago
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STIs do wear out, what's the mileage on them? That Australian cyclist, who's name escapes me, on youtube did a video showing you a worn out one. Main symptom was that it would shift ok on one side of the cassette but the pull was off by the time it got to other side.

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ChrisB200SX [863 posts] 5 months ago
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StraelGuy wrote:

STIs do wear out, what's the mileage on them? That Australian cyclist, who's name escapes me, on youtube did a video showing you a worn out one. Main symptom was that it would shift ok on one side of the cassette but the pull was off by the time it got to other side.

Shane Miller, GP Llama?

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StraelGuy [1602 posts] 5 months ago
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That's the fella!

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bechdan [182 posts] 5 months ago
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ive revived it a bit by spraying loads of WD40 in to the shifter and letting it drain, got lots of brown stuff out and it shifted a bit better, removed the cable and housings whilst I was at it, I trimmed the ends of the housings which were a bit frayed and re lubed the cable, seems good now. Cable and housing arent that old and are decent shimano ones.

 

Thanks for reading, and hope this may be useful to you.

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StraelGuy [1602 posts] 5 months ago
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I think Shane recommends blasting it out with degreaser or solvent to get all old crustificated grease out and then hosing the internals with silicon oil or Boeshield.

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ktache [1019 posts] 5 months ago
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I'm still running old 91-92 XT 7x3 STIs on my getting to work bike, found that giving the pods a good clean whilst taken apart with Finish Line Speed Clean (cotton buds and towel) and then lots of Finish Line's Pedal and Cleat Dry Film Lubricant, seems to be non oil and almost all PTFE.  Keeps them going a bit longer, not my first set of course, ebay to keep her Retro and quality.  Works great on the brake lever pivots/bushings too.

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Drinfinity [115 posts] 5 months ago
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How do know rear mech alignment is good?

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CXR94Di2 [2315 posts] 5 months ago
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Drinfinity wrote:

How do know rear mech alignment is good?

 

If this is a general question, a quick test is to look down the line of the rear wheel and see of the derailleur is in line with a cass cog. If the chain line deviates too much you will see it.  The final check is to use a hanger aligment device.  You can buy then from £30 upwards or make one out of 20mm box section tubing with a correct bolt,washers etc- see youtube.  

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mike the bike [1128 posts] 5 months ago
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Cable.  It's the cable.  It's always the cable.  I hate cables but at least with cables you know it's always the cable.