[Shav]

Hi,

I have a four year old Evo and recently noticed a clunking noise when I turn the bars, so assumption is the headset bearing/s have gone. 

I’m looking into getting replacements, I can see that you can buy a complete headset kit, including top cap, compression bung and under stem spacer cone that I don’t need for £40’ish.

My question is, can you buy just the bearings on their own? I found these online but could do with a second opinion on whether they will work before I order: 

https://www.cannondalespares.com/Cannondale-1-1_4-Headset-Bearing–46.8MM_7MM_45–ACB468H7-DHA/product_detail/3-43604

https://www.cannondalespares.com/Cannondale-1-1_8-Headset-Bearing–ACB418H7B-DBA/product_detail/3-43473

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

Topic

[madcarew]

Shav wrote:

madcarew wrote:

I bought some after market bearings for my evo. Half the price of originals and still fine 3 yrs later

Thanks for the replys, can I ask, where did you get the after market bearings from?

Australia is the best reply I can give you, sorry. I was racing in Australia and my headset died and the bike shop in Perth had cannondale bearings for (I think )$80 and I got some  of the same pattern for $45. I’ve googled and found 

https://cyclinic.com.au/products/cannondale-headset-bearings-road-caad-10-supersix

https://qwertycycles.co.uk/collections/headsets

[pablo]

My brake cable for the back
My brake cable for the back runs through the frame )that klunks at full lock as it tries to pull out of the guide

[Anthony.C]

CasperCCC wrote:

I had similar clunking noises on my S6 Evo. Before replacing the bearings, I thought I’d give just cleaning it a go. Took the headset apart, cleared off all the gunk that had accumulated, and re-assembled it all. Totally solved the problem, so it might be worth giving that a go before you buy new bearings.

(Although… I’ve now got a separate problem, which is that it seems to be taking way too much torque to properly tighten the headset. There’s a fraction of play that’s just not going away. Anyone else faced this problem?)

 

I had a problem with a SuperSix Evo Hi-Mod where the headset would come loose nearly every ride. It turns out that it can be a problem  with integrated headsets and it is resolved with microspacers  like these  https://www.edinburghbicycle.com/fsa-micro-spacer.html .

I needed two of them to stop my headset coming loose and it has stayed tight since.

[Welsh boy]

Drop these people an email,

Drop these people an email, my friend was after something peculiar and they sorted him out https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Cycling-/-Biking-Bike-Bearings-Cycle-Bearings/c5409_5413_7218/index.html

 

[Shav]

No that’s cool, I was trying

No that’s cool, I was trying to add my experience of setting the headset up for CasperCCC as well.

Anyway, I found the culprit that was causing my issue – here’s the top headset bearing: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AnxxeTmvKEGujKkvExKtzSpQDDjc6w

Bottom one is not in bad nick so will just clean it all up and replace the top one and should be good.

 

[andsaw]

CasperCCC wrote:

 

Hi Shav the last comment was for CasperCCC, sorry for going off topic.

(Although… I’ve now got a separate problem, which is that it seems to be taking way too much torque to properly tighten the headset. There’s a fraction of play that’s just not going away. Anyone else faced this problem?)

[/quote]

[Shav]

Yeah so I’ve always used the

Yeah so I’ve always used the instructions from the Cannondale manual re headset setup: 

https://www.cannondale.com/~/media/Files/PDF/Dorel/Cannondale/Common/Support/ROAD%20OWNER%20MANUALS/SUPERSIX%20EVO%202012/2011_webOMS_126884_SuperSixEVO_EN.ashx

Page 15

Key thing is to make sure the bung is lined up to support the bottom of the stem where it clamps and the bung is torqued up to 5 Ft-Lbs.

 

[andsaw]

CasperCCC make sure the bung

CasperCCC make sure the bung is tight and not moving up when you tighen, be careful to how much you tighten as the fork will expand and possibly crack.

[Shav]

Thanks guys, really useful

Thanks guys, really useful info. 

Think I’ll strip it down at the weekend and give it a clean / see what state the bearings are in.

[andsaw]

The bottom is a MR168 and the

The bottom is a MR168 and the top is quite specific as its 6.5mm and i’ve never found a generic, but thats a tange 4t5-5,  theres one on Ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CANNONDALE-SUPERSIX-HEADSET-BEARINGS/142806846450?hash=item213ff38bf2:g:bhYAAOSwV7ZZ118I also i would take both out and check which one is gone, as the bottom is the one thats open to the elements and more prone than the top.

[CasperCCC]

I had similar clunking noises

I had similar clunking noises on my S6 Evo. Before replacing the bearings, I thought I’d give just cleaning it a go. Took the headset apart, cleared off all the gunk that had accumulated, and re-assembled it all. Totally solved the problem, so it might be worth giving that a go before you buy new bearings.

(Although… I’ve now got a separate problem, which is that it seems to be taking way too much torque to properly tighten the headset. There’s a fraction of play that’s just not going away. Anyone else faced this problem?)

[StraelGuy]

I always use Simply Bearings.

I always use Simply Bearings.

[Shav]

madcarew wrote:

madcarew wrote:

I bought some after market bearings for my evo. Half the price of originals and still fine 3 yrs later

Thanks for the replys, can I ask, where did you get the after market bearings from?

[madcarew]

I bought some after market
I bought some after market bearings for my evo. Half the price of originals and still fine 3 yrs later

[StraelGuy]

If the bearings themselves

If the bearings themselves are the correct spec ie diameter and bearing face angle etc, then I can see no reason at all not to buy generics and fit them yourself. I did that on my carbon Giant.

[Author]

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