[sergius]

Hey All,

 

I recently took delivery of a Canyon Ultimate, set it up and have done around 200km on it so far.

Reading on here about a fork failure due to a loose headset, I did the old “lock the front brake and check for wobble up front” thing this morning – of which there was some.  I didn’t have time to deal with that before work so I left it until this evening,

 

The bike has an Acros headset (not sure exactly which model), I did some googling on the subject and although most of the instructions didn’t seem relevant I basically took the stem off and put everything back together again this evening with an extra 1mm spacer which I’d left off before.

What’s interesting is the wobble – upon closer investigation it’s still there, albeit better than before, subjectively at least.  According to my fingers there isn’t any movement around the headset – it’s actually the Mavic wheels.

You can see a couple of mm of movement on the tyre with the disc brakes locked on, again I don’t really feel any movement around the headset. 

By my eye, the fork and disk brake are solid and not moving – yet the hub and wheel have a couple of mm of play in them.  The rear doesn’t behave the same way (obviously hub internals are different though).  I didn’t get a chance to remove the wheel and check for any play in the axles/bearings yet – but it’s weird as there would have to be some play between the centrelock disk rotor and the hub itself (which doesn’t really make sense – I’ve not dismantled these ones before, but all my other centrelock wheels have those little teeth for the rotor on the hub casing itself).

 

Any thought?

 

Topic

[sergius]

Bookmarked!  It’s that I-Lock

Bookmarked!  It’s that I-Lock headset adjustment section rather than a “normal” aheadset.

 

It seems I inadvertently followed their instructions to the letter last night anyway.  I’ll whip the wheel off tonight and make sure it’s sound as well.

[DoctorFish]

sergius wrote:

DoctorFish wrote:

vegasfoster wrote:

Not familiar with canyon specifically, but thinking you may need small spacer on top of the stem as shown here in order to adequately preload.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQe9TJJq1PE

 

Canyon headsets don’t use compressions plugs, they are completely different.

Have you made sure that the little star shaped screw is tightened up to take up any play?  You have to go very careful with this as I have stripped one before.  Don’t like how they make them so delecate.

 

Where is this “star shaped screw”? I’ve seen this mentioned elsewhere but saw nothing of that sort there.

 

– There’s a 2mm alan key fixing (2nm) on a large shaped spacer-type thing at the bottom of the stack.

– There’s two 4mm alan key bolts (9nm) for fixing the stem to the steerer tube

– There’s a 2mm alan key bolt fixing the stem cap to a thread within the steerer tube

– There’s a 4mm alan key bolt within the steerer tube (which the stem cap screws into), marked as 4nm, which I was able to tighten slightly.

 

No pictures cos I’m at work 🙂

 

The one in picture 4 here, which is an alan key rather than a star shaped one, I’m either misrementering what mine is like, or it has changed slightly.  

https://www.canyon.com/nl/service/supportcenter/article.html?supportcenter_articles_id=65

 

[Stef Marazzi]

DaSy wrote:

If you turn the front wheel to 90° to the bike, then rock it to test for play, you remove the front brake from  the equation. I suspect that the movement may just be the small amount of movement of the front disc pads within the caliper.

Edit to add:

The play in the headset of a Canyon is taken out by the little Allen or Torx bolt on the side of the bottom spacer. Once you have put it all together and tightened the stem onto the steerer, you take out the play but adjusting that little bolt, which force open a wedge type affair with the spacer to remove play.

 

[url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5E5WLd4Chs[/url]

 

Yep, I reckon its this as well

[sergius]

DaSy wrote:

If you turn the front wheel to 90° to the bike, then rock it to test for play, you remove the front brake from  the equation. I suspect that the movement may just be the small amount of movement of the front disc pads within the caliper.

Edit to add:

The play in the headset of a Canyon is taken out by the little Allen or Torx bolt on the side of the bottom spacer. Once you have put it all together and tightened the stem onto the steerer, you take out the play but adjusting that little bolt, which force open a wedge type affair with the spacer to remove play.

 

[url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5E5WLd4Chs[/url]

 

 

That’s a super useful video thanks – they key thing being that the “thing” at the bottom of the stack opens and that’s where the torx bolt is 🙂

 

 

[philhubbard]

May be worth checking the

May be worth checking the centerlock rotor is tight if you didn’t do this when popping the bike together

[Anonymous]

If you turn the front wheel

If you turn the front wheel to 90° to the bike, then rock it to test for play, you remove the front brake from  the equation. I suspect that the movement may just be the small amount of movement of the front disc pads within the caliper.

Edit to add:

The play in the headset of a Canyon is taken out by the little Allen or Torx bolt on the side of the bottom spacer. Once you have put it all together and tightened the stem onto the steerer, you take out the play but adjusting that little bolt, which force open a wedge type affair with the spacer to remove play.

 

[url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5E5WLd4Chs[/url]

 

[sergius]

DoctorFish wrote:

vegasfoster wrote:

Not familiar with canyon specifically, but thinking you may need small spacer on top of the stem as shown here in order to adequately preload.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQe9TJJq1PE

 

Canyon headsets don’t use compressions plugs, they are completely different.

Have you made sure that the little star shaped screw is tightened up to take up any play?  You have to go very careful with this as I have stripped one before.  Don’t like how they make them so delecate.

 

Where is this “star shaped screw”? I’ve seen this mentioned elsewhere but saw nothing of that sort there.

 

– There’s a 2mm alan key fixing (2nm) on a large shaped spacer-type thing at the bottom of the stack.

– There’s two 4mm alan key bolts (9nm) for fixing the stem to the steerer tube

– There’s a 2mm alan key bolt fixing the stem cap to a thread within the steerer tube

– There’s a 4mm alan key bolt within the steerer tube (which the stem cap screws into), marked as 4nm, which I was able to tighten slightly.

 

No pictures cos I’m at work 🙂

[DoctorFish]

vegasfoster wrote:

Not familiar with canyon specifically, but thinking you may need small spacer on top of the stem as shown here in order to adequately preload.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQe9TJJq1PE

 

Canyon headsets don’t use compressions plugs, they are completely different.

Have you made sure that the little star shaped screw is tightened up to take up any play?  You have to go very careful with this as I have stripped one before.  Don’t like how they make them so delecate.

Sounds though as if you need to check out the wheel rather than the headset.

 

[vegasfoster]

Not familiar with canyon

Not familiar with canyon specifically, but thinking you may need small spacer on top of the stem as shown here in order to adequately preload.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQe9TJJq1PE

[Author]

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