[quigleyb]

Hi,

Could anyone tell me if the cassette below is worn and needs replacement? My LBS have said this needs to be replaced, but I have only done 1600km’s on it….

Link to image – https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5dmMSYxuKdgaGZCNEpJZEhocXh1Z2ZQYkRiVzIwdHliSHF3

thanks

Brian

Topic

[hawkinspeter]

I use a chain tool checker

I use a chain tool checker too, but they don’t actually measure chain wear correctly. I was convinced by this explanation (with pictures!): http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-004/000.html

[Anonymous]

StraelGuy wrote:

Agreed, I don’t get this whole ‘chain checkers don’t measure the right thing’ argument. If you take a chain at 0.75% wear measured the ‘correct’ way and then make a go/no go tool to just fit through that chain then it’s good enough for 99% of people, surely?

 

Also, one of the main advantages is ease of use, no taking the chain off to measure etc, just quickly stick the checker in once a week or so and you get a good idea of how the chain is wearing.

I check that the thing is a “no-go” on a new chain (I’m yet to buy a new chain that was), then keep checking until the day it does “go” and change the chain. I have had the same Dura Ace cassette now for quite a few thousand miles using this method.

Also you could buy a £10 set of calipers from Screwfix, but you’d have spent three quid more than the Park chain checker.

[StraelGuy]

Agreed, I don’t get this

Agreed, I don’t get this whole ‘chain checkers don’t measure the right thing’ argument. If you take a chain at 0.75% wear measured the ‘correct’ way and then make a go/no go tool to just fit through that chain then it’s good enough for 99% of people, surely?

[mike the bike]

KiwiMike wrote:

Noting those Park ‘checkers’ are woefully inaccurate, compared to even a cheap metal ruler or £10 set of digital calipers from Screwfix.

 

What, all of them?

 

[quigleyb]

Thanks everyone for the input

Thanks everyone for the input – much appreciated.

[Dnnnnnn]

As others note, check your

As others note, check your chain. If it’s worn (and it’s similar age to the cassette) then it’s likely the cassette is worn too (even if it doesn’t look it (it doesn’t)). 

Trick is to replace your chain before it wears so much that the cassette much that the cassette won’t play nice with a new chain. The two will wear together while still performing OK but get to a point where they both need replaced. Better change the chain earlier and prolong the life of the cassette*.

A chain checker is a good investment in the long run.

 

 

* not that I bother with any of this good practice myself – I just run the f**kers into the ground and then change the lot** (maybe a chainring too)

** there’s a reason I haven’t gone 11 speed…

[hawkinspeter]

Pilot Pete wrote:

hawkinspeter wrote:

I agree with DaSy.

Presumably, you took your bike to your LBS because they have more experience than you about this kind of thing, so it doesn’t make much sense to second-guess them for relatively cheap consumable parts.

I’d recommend going along with their recommendation, but ask for the “old” cassette. Then, you can muck around with swapping the old cassette and see if you get any issues with slipping gears and verify if your LBS was taking you for a ride or not.

Why would you pay for a new cassette (which can be a lot more than ‘cheap’) only to ask for the old one back to ‘muck around with to see if you get any issues’? Surely with the cassette on the bike already (which looks practically new – there are shaped cogs to facilitate shifting, but no wear that I can see in the picture) you could do your ‘mucking around’ before spending out on unnecessary parts…

If the chain is jumping it is either worn out on this nearly new cassette, which will ruin the cassette, the indexing needs adjusting (or the shifter/ cable is the problem) or the hanger may be bent.

If the bike is not in the shop for shifting issues then they are trying it on…

PP

He took his bike to the shop for some reason, so why do that if you don’t trust the shop?

Yes, it’s cheaper to test it out yourself which is what I would do.

KiwiMike – I’ve had a worn cassette in the past that only jumped/skipped on the larger cogs, so I guess it depends on the nature of the wear.

[Anonymous]

Thanks KiwiMike, I bow to

Thanks KiwiMike, I bow to your superior knowledge and experience in these matters.

 

 

[Welsh boy]

Get a new chain and cassette

Get a new chain and cassette and buy a new chain to give you a good starting point and then look on ebay for joining links (I bought a pack of 5 KMC links for about £5 recently).  Keep your eyes open for sales on chains and change your chain twice a year, total cost will work out to be about £25 a year and dont forget that the joining links do need changing ocassionally.  As others have said, 3 or 4 chains per cassette (a “rule of thumb” is only a guess so lots of winter/mucky riding will increase wear rate) and as for the comment that a chain will only jump on small sprockets, that is the most stupid statement spouted on this topic so far.

[Chris Hayes]

I tend to change chains and

I tend to change chains and cassettes together for worry free cycling.  You can get an 11spd 105 for 30 quid online or your LBS will pricematch*. Feels nicer too.  Admittedly,  1600 kms isn’t much, but poor weather conditions and a worn chain could do it. 

It seems that your instinct is not to trust your LBS.  If so, just test-ride the old cassette; put it under stress, and then decide. 

*I wouldn’t do this to an independent LBS

[Anonymous]

LBS = Taking the piss, the

LBS = Taking the piss, the cassette on my daily once its cleaned up is probably not much different, admittedly it’s a 10 speed tiagra so different material but it’s done 5000 miles and not a hint of slippage.

Suggest you find another shop IMHO because they’ll probably be taking the piss with other punters not in the know 

[Pilot Pete]

hawkinspeter wrote:

I agree with DaSy.

Presumably, you took your bike to your LBS because they have more experience than you about this kind of thing, so it doesn’t make much sense to second-guess them for relatively cheap consumable parts.

I’d recommend going along with their recommendation, but ask for the “old” cassette. Then, you can muck around with swapping the old cassette and see if you get any issues with slipping gears and verify if your LBS was taking you for a ride or not.

Why would you pay for a new cassette (which can be a lot more than ‘cheap’) only to ask for the old one back to ‘muck around with to see if you get any issues’? Surely with the cassette on the bike already (which looks practically new – there are shaped cogs to facilitate shifting, but no wear that I can see in the picture) you could do your ‘mucking around’ before spending out on unnecessary parts…

If the chain is jumping it is either worn out on this nearly new cassette, which will ruin the cassette, the indexing needs adjusting (or the shifter/ cable is the problem) or the hanger may be bent.

If the bike is not in the shop for shifting issues then they are trying it on…

PP

[Stef Marazzi]

They shouldnt take the piss

They shouldnt take the piss like this. Basically fit a new chain, ride up the road, give it some beans. If it skips, new cassette needed as well. If not, then its fine.

[Geraldaut]

Completely worn out. Replace

Completely worn out. Replace it immediately, I can take care for recycling this worn out piece of kit though…

[ktache]

If your chain had worn to

If your chain had worn to over 1% that may mean that your casette is worn too, however you choose to measure it.  Rohloff do sell a casette wear indicating tool (kind of ironic) but seems very subjective in use, I haven’t got one but tempted.

The only real test is fitting a new chain, if it skips on the smaller cogs when you lay down the power, you need a new one.

Chain rings tend to get pointy as they wear, so do jockey wheels.

[Author]

Replies