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Wheel build

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  • February 28, 2018 at 11:06 am #913143
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    hawkinspeter

    Building wheels isn’t very

    Building wheels isn’t very hard and is actually quite therapeutic.

    I’d recommend double checking that you’ve got the correct spoke lengths for your hub/rim combination. Trying to true a wheel when the spokes are just running out of thread is a chore and definitely not recommended.

    For your first wheel, it’s best to stick to a standard 3-cross pattern and triple-check that you’ve got the spokes/rim/hub orientated correctly as it’s a pain when you’ve almost finished and spot a mistake.

    Try to build the wheel with a consistent tension e.g. thread all the nipples with the same number of turns. This makes truing the wheel a lot simpler as it’ll be more or less radially true so you can then focus on lateral truing.

    If you don’t have access to a truing stand, it is quite possible to true a wheel in situ by squinting at the brake pads, but it won’t be as accurate.

    February 28, 2018 at 11:02 am #913141
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    demondig

    Another recommendation for

    Another recommendation for the Musson book here. Lays out very clearly what you need to do. I’ve put together a number of wheels using it, and have happily cycled many miles on them: there’s a lot of satisfaction in riding on a pair of wheels that you’ve built yourself. It’s quite an enjoyable task, too.

    February 28, 2018 at 10:51 am #913139
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    velochris

    I can also recommend Roger
    I can also recommend Roger Musson’s online book (small charge) found at wheelpro.co.uk.

    If you don’t want to make tools I would advise starting with a basic truing stand (Tacx do a decent one ). Visit your local wheel builder and buy a cheap rim and hub (front non disc are easiest to build). Ask them to provide the spokes in the correct length so you can concentrate on the build process.

    I’m self taught and with time you can build a wheel as good as anybody.

    February 27, 2018 at 10:30 pm #913137
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    rjfrussell
    Duncann wrote:
    Sheldon Brown’s website is a very good source of wheelbuilding instruction.

    10th anniversary of the great man’s death just passed on 4th Feb.  

    Fantastic to see the site still updated by Harriet and others.

     

     

    February 27, 2018 at 9:35 pm #913135
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    Dnnnnnn

    Sheldon Brown’s website is a

    Sheldon Brown’s website is a very good source of wheelbuilding instruction.

    February 27, 2018 at 4:17 am #913133
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    Boatsie

    I’m with you. Just wanting
    I’m with you. Just wanting to learn to build a basic wheel. I’m unsure whether bearings= sealed or grease each ball to hold in place and assemble but not to fussed.
    With F=ma I hope that the heavier wheel (greater m) will translate into less acceleration with constant F (my input) hence less bucking. My shorts have worn a hole into them. Lol.
    Plus thicker rim shouldn’t age as fast while using brakes. Lol. And cheaper to replace when worn through.
    I really don’t have the skill to peddle beyond my ability of fast and the constant bucking will age my rims too fast as per my liking.
    Recently in a LBS when a tour racer came in; a broken spoke and a slight puncture. Paid enough attention to realize durability and non availability of parts. Figuring as a non racer, will build a set I can service.

    February 26, 2018 at 2:34 pm #913131
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    Miller

    Wheels are very strong in

    Wheels are very strong in regard to in-plane forces, like a rider’s backside crashing down on the saaddle. Tyres provide almost all the suspension anyway.

    Meaning, I doubt you will break the wheel just by riding it. But, always good to learn to build wheels.

    February 26, 2018 at 11:22 am #913129
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    Boatsie

    Thanks. Wasn’t and still not
    Thanks. Wasn’t and still not sure if tooth to outer face distance is the same and compatible with chain alignment.
    Ordered 1. Will find out soon. Hoping so because I’m pretty sure my uncoordinated behaviour will buckle the rim I’m currently using. Aware that a heavier set will accelerate me down grade faster than a light weight set due to gravity. Balancing that. Lol.

    February 26, 2018 at 10:20 am #913127
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    Anonymous

    Yes, a normal track frame

    Yes, a normal track frame with horizontal drop-outs will be spaced at 120mm, which is what the O.L.D of those rear hubs is (O.L.D is over-lock  nut distance, the distance between the outer faces of the hub lock nuts – not the wheel nuts that bolt it into the frame).

    To be doubley sure, measure between the inside faces of the rear dropout, it should be 120mm or very close (within 1 or 2 mm).

    As ever, Sheldon Brown explains it all better than me, so go here for more detail. -[url]https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html[/url]

     

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