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Hi all,

My Wessex has an 11-32 105 5800 cassette on it, paired with a 50/34. For the type of riding I use my Wessex, I simply don't use the 50-11 combo. Annoyingly, the 11-32 cassette has a 2 tooth jump from 16t to 14t, I spend a lot of time flicking between those two gears and it's REALLY irritating.

With a 50-12 combo at 120 RPM, I'll be doing 40mph. Whereas with my 52-11 (on my Canyon), at the same RPM, I'll be doing 45mph which is great for the type of riding I use my Canyon for.

So I'm looking to switch the 11t cog for a 12t. I've had a look at the manual, as I understand, I'll have to change the 11t for a 12t lockring cog and also change the 13t to a 13t with a built-in spacer (then I'm also adding a 15t sprocket).

All I have to replace are the 12t and 13t sprockets to the appropriate lock ring type, correct?

9 comments

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Canyon48 [1034 posts] 9 months ago
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And my next question...

Does anyone have a 12-25 5800 cassette they'd sell me? The cost of buying the individual 12t, 13t and 15t cogs is the same as buying a new cassette 

(willing to swap my spare 11-28 cassette for a 12-25!)

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BehindTheBikesheds [2151 posts] 9 months ago
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if you have an old 10 speed cassette with the required sprockets you can use the sprockets as the thickness is the same 1.6mm for both 10 and 11 speed. Then just file down the built in spacer of the starting spocket by 0.21mm as that is the difference in the spacing between 10 and 11 speed (3.95 - 3.74mm). Campag is another whole world of shit with varying spacing even between different groupsets.

You don't necessarily need the 13t sprocket to have the built in spacer so long as you have the correct spacer in place.

 

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ChrisB200SX [797 posts] 9 months ago
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I feel your pain. My 105 (5800) 11-28 cassette has me jumping between 17T and 15T a lot, it really is massively irritating.

I looked at buying just 12/13/16T and spacer, but it's not cost-effective.

I bought a 12-25 cassette and was going to hybridise the two to make a 12-28 cassette that included a 16T. I used the 12-25 for RedBull TimeLaps and a few miles commuting over the last three weeks, back on the 11-28 now, so they've both got a couple of hundred miles on them.

Shimano manual suggests that the sprockets do differ, I'm not convinced... but haven't compared them yet, they need a good clean first. I've just finished building my Sora winter bike, so should be able to do this soon. Losing my job quite soon, so not a priority for me right now.

(I suspect the shift ramps may be located at different points, I want to check.)

In short, I may have the spare 15T and 13T sprockets and spacers for you. But you might be better off getting a 12-25 and selling me the 16T... or there might be a better 50:50 split that makes sense?

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richgill77 [9 posts] 9 months ago
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Just buy a secind hand cassette off eBay, will be about £15-20 including postage as that's what I sold a few 11-32 5800 cassettes for  1

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Canyon48 [1034 posts] 9 months ago
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ChrisB200SX wrote:

I feel your pain. My 105 (5800) 11-28 cassette has me jumping between 17T and 15T a lot, it really is massively irritating.

I looked at buying just 12/13/16T and spacer, but it's not cost-effective.

I bought a 12-25 cassette and was going to hybridise the two to make a 12-28 cassette that included a 16T. I used the 12-25 for RedBull TimeLaps and a few miles commuting over the last three weeks, back on the 11-28 now, so they've both got a couple of hundred miles on them.

Shimano manual suggests that the sprockets do differ, I'm not convinced... but haven't compared them yet, they need a good clean first. I've just finished building my Sora winter bike, so should be able to do this soon. Losing my job quite soon, so not a priority for me right now.

(I suspect the shift ramps may be located at different points, I want to check.)

In short, I may have the spare 15T and 13T sprockets and spacers for you. But you might be better off getting a 12-25 and selling me the 16T... or there might be a better 50:50 split that makes sense?

I'm going to be keeping the 16t I'm afraid, just adding a 15t between the 16t and 14t then shifting the whole cassette down by losing the 11t - hence why I'm also after the 12t lockring! 

Avatar
ChrisB200SX [797 posts] 9 months ago
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wellsprop wrote:
ChrisB200SX wrote:

I feel your pain. My 105 (5800) 11-28 cassette has me jumping between 17T and 15T a lot, it really is massively irritating.

I looked at buying just 12/13/16T and spacer, but it's not cost-effective.

I bought a 12-25 cassette and was going to hybridise the two to make a 12-28 cassette that included a 16T. I used the 12-25 for RedBull TimeLaps and a few miles commuting over the last three weeks, back on the 11-28 now, so they've both got a couple of hundred miles on them.

Shimano manual suggests that the sprockets do differ, I'm not convinced... but haven't compared them yet, they need a good clean first. I've just finished building my Sora winter bike, so should be able to do this soon. Losing my job quite soon, so not a priority for me right now.

(I suspect the shift ramps may be located at different points, I want to check.)

In short, I may have the spare 15T and 13T sprockets and spacers for you. But you might be better off getting a 12-25 and selling me the 16T... or there might be a better 50:50 split that makes sense?

I'm going to be keeping the 16t I'm afraid, just adding a 15t between the 16t and 14t then shifting the whole cassette down by losing the 11t - hence why I'm also after the 12t lockring! 

I meant those bits from the spare canibalised cassette, rather than from your 11-32. I would imagine my middle sprockets will need replacing before the larger ones or smaller ones, so I can see why you might want to keep spare middle sprockets.
The 11-28 cassette has 12B, 16B etc on the sprockets, I believe the 12-25 has 12A, 16A, etc on many of them. I can't find the shimano pdf now (site has changed very recently) but I think some of the other sprockets are shared between both or all three cassettes.

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Canyon48 [1034 posts] 9 months ago
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ChrisB200SX wrote:
wellsprop wrote:
ChrisB200SX wrote:

I feel your pain. My 105 (5800) 11-28 cassette has me jumping between 17T and 15T a lot, it really is massively irritating.

I looked at buying just 12/13/16T and spacer, but it's not cost-effective.

I bought a 12-25 cassette and was going to hybridise the two to make a 12-28 cassette that included a 16T. I used the 12-25 for RedBull TimeLaps and a few miles commuting over the last three weeks, back on the 11-28 now, so they've both got a couple of hundred miles on them.

Shimano manual suggests that the sprockets do differ, I'm not convinced... but haven't compared them yet, they need a good clean first. I've just finished building my Sora winter bike, so should be able to do this soon. Losing my job quite soon, so not a priority for me right now.

(I suspect the shift ramps may be located at different points, I want to check.)

In short, I may have the spare 15T and 13T sprockets and spacers for you. But you might be better off getting a 12-25 and selling me the 16T... or there might be a better 50:50 split that makes sense?

I'm going to be keeping the 16t I'm afraid, just adding a 15t between the 16t and 14t then shifting the whole cassette down by losing the 11t - hence why I'm also after the 12t lockring! 

I meant those bits from the spare canibalised cassette, rather than from your 11-32. I would imagine my middle sprockets will need replacing before the larger ones or smaller ones, so I can see why you might want to keep spare middle sprockets.
The 11-28 cassette has 12B, 16B etc on the sprockets, I believe the 12-25 has 12A, 16A, etc on many of them. I can't find the shimano pdf now (site has changed very recently) but I think some of the other sprockets are shared between both or all three cassettes.

Oh I see what you mean!

Is there a significant difference between a and b parts? I assume the ramps are slightly different...

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ChrisB200SX [797 posts] 9 months ago
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Possibly, I'll have to compare them.

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Canyon48 [1034 posts] 9 months ago
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ChrisB200SX wrote:

Possibly, I'll have to compare them.

As far as I know, if the parts do have either A or B stamped on them it means they are interchangeable. B just means the material differs.