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27 comments
Just built my own bike. Take it slow and most jobs are straightforward. Mine had one trip to LBS to chase and face the frame and cut the steerer. Don't underestimate the time it will take if you haven't done it before. Follow the Shimano dealer manual guides for shifters and front/rear mechs, they're excellent and will get you to the point where gears are shifting cleanly. Everything will take a few miles to bed in so there's little point in really fine tuning your indexing until then.
Prep is the key - measure twice, cut once
No mudguard mounts on the Aithein would rule it out for me as a winter bike.
No need to spend a fortune. I used an Edge Design one (£25) and cannot tell the difference between it and an expensive Cane Creek 110 on another bike.
They're both excellent. Tiagra has 10 sprockets, 105 has 11. It's up to you whether the extra sprocket and nicer finish of 105 warrants the extra £50 or so. I'd say it does.
They're alright, but for that sort of money I would lean towards Zondas, which have many fans here. Others will recommend a pair of hand-builts for a winter bike, but that will just further complicate things for you!
Nothing wrong with it and nice to have it all matching.
Saddles are very personal but many get on well with the Scoop.
You can build a bike. If you do go for something like a T3, with its threaded bottom bracket and integrated headset, you'll only need a BB tool, torque wrench with allen/torx/driver bits, hacksaw (for mudguard mounts and fork steerer) and cable cutters.
Frame - how racy do you want to be?
Wheels - as wide a tyre as you can manage (bearing in mind you may be limited if you want to fit mudguards). I ride 25s on one T2 and 28s on the other. The 25s are great, but for long days in the saddle, I prefer the 28s for comfort. The grip is superb too (Conti 4000s II).
IF you can possibly manage it, Hunt are the wheels everyone recommends nowadays. Not heard a single grumble about them yet.
So I visited Sigma today and they said I can build up a kinesis with them using the cycle to work Scheme. They said I can go over the budget and pay the difference, which I am happy to do, although I don't want it to be considerable over the budget.
So... now I need advice on build ideas. I have never build a bike before and want to know where I could compromise to save money. Sigma have said they will price match anything. This is where I am at:
Frame - Kinesis Aithein or T3
Headset - ?
Groupset - Tiagra Group Set/105
Wheels - ? Do I buy entry level or a really decent pair. What are the Mavic Cosmic Elites like?
Finishing kit - Deda Zero
Saddle - Fabric Scoop
Any thoughts please share. I still need to do some Moreno research but it would be good to hear any recommendations.
T3 plus Tiagra. 10 speed cheaper, slightly easier to build, wider tolerances for getting the shifting dialled in. You can also run an 11-34 cassette, 105 only goes up to 32. If you can mix and match the 105 crankset is significantly lighter than Tiagra but other than that the two groups are pretty much identical these days, just 10-speed vs 11. I've gone from 105 to Tiagra and don't notice any performance difference in the shifting.
If you're running guards there is a new 105 low profile front mech which will improve clearance - the old long arm mechs could end up very close to the mudguard, I had to notch mine.
Just to make life more complicated for you...
May be worth looking at Merlin. The Axe7 Pro is a straight 105 groupset (hydraulic discs) at
£900. https://www.merlincycles.com/merlin-axe7-pro-disc-road-bike-2017-95581.html
The Normal Axe7 is Tiagra (so 10 speed rather than your preferred 11 and mechanical rather than hydraulic) but you can grab for £650 (also has an offer at the moment for free pedals and shoes!). https://www.merlincycles.com/merlin-axe7-disc-road-bike-shoe-pedal-offer...
Not affiliated in any way but I do own the Axe7 Pro and love it. Purists may find it a too heavy (around the 10kg mark) but considering I'm a bit heavy it's not much of an issue
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. I don't know if you have helped me make up my mind or become even more confused. Building up a bike was something I was considering too, and the Kinesis was on top of my list. I am, however, fairly inexperienced with bike building, but not too bad with practical things, and with YouTube, I know that you can pretty much learn how to do anything these days.
I'll continue doing the homework and let you know what decision I make!
T3, T3, T3...
IMG_0740.JPG
I was in the same position as you a few months ago and built up a Kinesis T3 with Athena and Zondas from an older bike. You'd sneak a full build in under a grand with 105, RS10s and, say, Deda Zero 1 finishing kit - although you wouldn't necessarily need to if you want to spend more (put a grand's worth of components on one order for C2W, and fund the rest yourself).
I prefer the T3 to the old Van Nicholas ti road bike that donated the drivetrain and wheels. It's comfier and stiffer, which is crazy when you consider the price disparity.
EDIT: Merlin will sell you a full 105/RS10 build kit with everything you need, including long-drop brakes and mudguards, for £562.50 this weekend and a T3 frame/Tracer fork package for £380, which is a complete bargain: https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-105-5800-racelight-build-kit-103564...
+1 for this option if you could swing it on C2W. Just check whether that frame and fork bundle includes the headset bearings you'll need.
There is no shortage of T2 fans on here and the T3 is supposed to be 200gm lighter.
Ah, good point. Unlike the GF Ti and 4S, the T3 does not include a headset, and this is absent from the build kit. I used this one, which even came with a good quality expander bung: https://www.edgesportsuk.com/store/edge-design/headset/edge-design-integ...
Amusingly true - every winter bike thread turns into a Kinesis T2 love-in sooner or later.
I am a fan of my T2. I would look for discs for a replacement winter bikes, but you won't go wrong with a T3.
I would recommend my Rose Pro DX Cross bike, 105 full group set, mechanical disc brakes, semi-compact with 11-32 cassette, mud guards fitted from the factory. All components and fittings top class from well known brands for about 1,500 Euro direct from the factory. You can configure the bike to your liking.
It is very comfortable and sturdy (being a cross bike it's better fit to handle the winter). Build quality is top notch. I am very happy with it after two winters on it.
A bit above your budget, but I think it'll last a very long time. You can configure the bike to your liking, group set, wheels, brakes etc etc. You might get it very close to your budget.
If you Google winter Road bikes under £1000 theres an article where Road cc give 18 possibilities and some of those have discs.
If you're going to buy on line anyway maybe look at the 2017 models as there's some bargains to be had. Depends if you're willing to buy without trying and if you have any lbs it may be worth seeing what they have unless you are dead set on one of these.
If you bought one without trying it and hated it what would you do?
I was like your self and looking at the bikes you listed.I ended up buying a Tifosi CK7.Despite the name they are british.It can be bought just under your budget.
Do you need 11 speed?
I liked it that much I got the CK 4 too.Another very comfortable bike
http://www.fatbirds.co.uk/1679629/products/tifosi-ck4-sportivo-veloce-au...
http://www.tifosicycles.co.uk/shop/bikes/ck7/
Worth looking at
Cannondale CAAD Optimo Disc 105 is £959
Never heard a bad word said against the Planet X London Road
https://www.planetx.co.uk/c/q/bikes/road-bikes/london-road
If you can live with Sram rather than Shimano?
I'm in the same position. I want an aluminium bike with 105, hydraulic discs for year round commuting and regular 30-40 mile winter sides. My current 'winter hack' has Sora and is limited to 23mm tyres - Its true that I can just about get away with 25mm Schwalbe Luganos & Crud 2s, but I have to adjust them every ride and the build up of grey muck on the rims is awful. I figured 28mm tyres (with room for mudguards) and discs would be a bit safer and easier to on wet and frosty winter roads.
After copious research I have come to the conclusion that the Dolan RDX offers all of what I want at the lowest price. Really pleased that I can configure the bike to have smiliar geometry and the same crankset and cassette as my summer bike at no significant extra cost - I favour the semi-compact 52/36 with 11-36t combo.
However, I can't find too many reviews on line for the RDX, which I find strange. I also live too far away to make it practical to go and try an RDX and £1k is a lot of money to me. So, I'm a little nervous.
Finally, I note that the RDX frame has quick release skewers rather than 'thru axles'. I am a big chap, but I'm not going to be doing any arduous off roading. I just want better braking in the wet and less build up of grey muck on the rims! I've read lots of articles and watched GCN videos. Seems that everyone is saying that 'thru axles' are the way things are going, although there is no set standard at the moment. Articles suggest you shouldn't be worried about going to thru axles, but nothings says 'Don't buy a new bike with discs if it doesn't have thru axles'. If I did go for a bike with 'thru axles' it would cost me at least £300-500 (which I'm not keen to pay) to have all the other things I want on it. So, should lack of 'thru axles' be a deal breaker - Yes or no?
I don't think this hijacks the OP's post. But goes to show that the RDX 'looks good' from my research (apart from one thing). But, I (and presumably the OP) would value thoughts about whether lack of thru axle is an issue. Also, I'd be interested to know more about weight issues discussed above - Is the RDX significantly heavier than the other disc braked aluminium bikes that the OP lists (and others at the £1k price point)?
Many thanks in advance.
Does this exist? A 36 and a 36?
Apart from that, I wouldn't worry about thru-axles, there are plenty of disc bikes around that don't have them.
A friend has a Giant Contend as his winter bike, which he really likes. If it was me, I would be looking for ally frame, 28mm tyres min, 105 and disc brakes.
I've ridden in the winter on my Propel which has 25 mm tyres, and they don't grip enough when it is 3 degrees or lower. I broke my wrist one time and it puts the wind up you; if there had been anything else anywhere near me it could have been a horrific accident.
The Propel has a peculiar design of rim brakes that are especially bad with UK winter roads, not helped by the lack of mudguards.
Sorry, I meant 52/36 chainset with 11-32t cassette.
I looked at the Contend SL 1. Some great offers on the 2017 model for £900, but there is no clearance on the front forks for mudguard with a 28mm tyre. My OCD doesn't let me cut the front part of the mudguard off!
PS. Thanks for the 'thru axle' comment.
Correct, and I agree from my experience that QRs are fine.
I ride a Giant TCX SLR 2 from 2014 and it has QRs front and rear; the higher-spec models from that year had a 15 mm through-axle, but only at the front. Even so, my bike is plenty stiff at both ends, and has never displayed any desire to spit out the hubs from its open dropouts under hard braking. Be diligent on the tightness of your QR skewers and you should be golden.
Replacement hubs shouldn't be too hard to find for a QR road disc bike either - the 100 mm front and 135 mm rear QR hub spacing is lifted almost directly from mountain bikes with the same dropouts, and currently there are a lot of hubs and wheelsets that cater to QR dropouts via swappable end caps.
I've recommended this to others before- Pinnacle Dolomite 5. £1050 for 105 flat mount hydro discs, through axle (front), space for 28c tyres + full guards.
Disclaimer- I have an Arkose not Dolomite so can't say how it rides
I've had the Prefissio for three years now.
I'd echo the sentiments above.
It has some great points... i.e. you can run 25mm tyres, full guards and still use standard drop callipers.
it is also very economically priced.
It is also reliable.
However, it ain't all rosey... that bike is no performance rig. Not sure if its the generous weight, or what, but its not going to set any records for ya.
It's also worth noting that the combo of aluminium frame and seatpost is not the most sensitive package on your bum.
I have a Dolan Prefissio as my bad weather bike and a 5 year old (not the one on thier website at the moment) Ribble carbon Sportive/Racing as my good weather bike. My comments on the Dolan are:
Plus points:
It uses shallow drop brake calipers.
It takes 25mm tyres with full mudguards.
It has fittings for a rear panier rack and mudguards.
Minus points:
None that I can think of.
Observations:
It feels like I am dragging it around behind me when I swap from the Ribble but that only lasts for one or two rides.
The seat angle is steep (50cm size frame) and I need a seatpost with 25mm layback to get my saddle where I want it which also results in having to use quite a short stem.
Put a chain stay protector on, the paint is prone to chipping quite easilly.
My advice is, and is always the same to anyone looking to buy a new bike, as long as the bike fits you buy with your heart, the best bike is the one you will want to ride even through the grotty British weather, a real bargain or recommendation by a total stranger on a website is a waste of money if you dont want to get on it and ride.
The ribble only has clearance for 23mm which is why i'm steering towards the dolans. They both have clearance for 25mm, and I think the RDX has clearance for 28mm tyres.
Perhaps there are other options/brands I haven't looked at yet which may fit the bill?
If you want a winter bike can I suggest checking how much clearance the Ribble models have for mudguards and 25mm tyres? I know nothing about the Dolan bikes.