Complete newbie in need of tips/advice Cyclocross vs Road

Juin Tech R1 are very good for the price.

Promax Render R's are abysmal (they came on my Synapse).

Easily remedied by swapping to  TRP Hy Rd which are pretty damn good and close in performance to full hydraulics - but at a cost of £200....

I've got a CAADX 105 and generally love it's do everything nature, however as others have said the Promax Render R's it comes with are awful. I honestly wish I'd spent the extra and got the Ultegra version that came with hydros. 

I'm currently in the process of upgrading them to RS-685 shifters and R785 calipers. The old calipers are going in the bin, I wouldn't put them on a Matchbox car.

I run a CX bike for a mixed gravel/cycle path/road commute and I'm pretty happy with the flexibility it offers, particularly if you factor in a spare set of wheels. My route varies with distance so if I'm fancying a longer gravel ride I'll run 33mm CX tyres or swap to 32mm Gatorskins if its mostly road.

CX bike is likely to be a bit more pointy than a road bike and also have more bottom bracket clearance. Compared to my old road bike I feel I'm a bit perched on top of the bike rather than part of it but this helps with handling. 

CX is a compromise but the whole reason I have it is for disc brakes and clearance for big tyres. They're also cheaper than buying a comparable gravel/adventure bike (because fashion/marketing).

Often the case that CX bikes come with crosstops (extra brake levers fitted to the tops of the handlebars - closer to the stem than they would be on a flat bar bike). They can really help with transitioning from flats to drops and are great for commuting. Downside is they tend not to be available for hydro setups (Hope do some I think?) and do affect lever feel and braking performance a bit.

I looked at the CAADX and almost bought one but it wasn't clear if I could put mudguards on it and was put off by the pressfit BB. Current bike is a Merida Cyclocross 500 (similar spec to the Ride 500 but with discs). All I'd change on it is the chainset - for the type of rides I do an ultra-compact would make more sense.

Bingo-pajama, two of my riding buddies have the bike that Peted 76 linked to - the cheaper one. I did a 70 mile sportive with on of them on that bike and the other went out at the weekend bike packing from what I can tell.
Shows how versatile they can be and if you look around there are ways and means to get discounts at Halfords it's just that their building leaves you wanting though as Cycle Republic are part of them you can click and collect to one of them to build test ride and possibly buy
If there's one near you.

I have Hayes CX cable brakes on one bike and Shimano Hydros (the 105 level-ish ones) on the other. You can sum up the difference by saying that hydros are one-finger braking and the cables are two finger braking - but the cable brakes need more set up and attention.  When they're on song, the cable brakes are very good and have great feedback. The hydros are always excellent, but don't panic brake or you'll just lock up.

There are some shabby cable disks out there, you should probably read lots of reviews to make sure you're getting the right ones. CAADX in particular is noted for having poor brakes - but they're not the most expensive things to change if necessary (about £30 a wheel).

Not much else to comment apart from I was advised that a CX bike must have hydraulic brakes or the whole expereince will be muted. Couple of options below your budget for consideration:

£1000 - hydraulic brake CX bike - http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/road-bikes/boardman-cx-team-bike

£1100 - hydraulic brake CX bike - http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/CBPXXLAAPEX1/planet-x-xla-sram-apex-1-hydrau...

Have had my TCX SLR 2 for three years and so far it's been great.

I have tended more towards the road side of the riding spectrum though, and as such I swapped the 46/36T crank for a 50/34T - it's just more versatile for my purposes. I also run 28 and 32 mm road-oriented rubber. The great thing about my TCX is it can pretty much do everything I ask of it, even roll through a trail park or go for light loaded touring/commuting.

Regarding mechanical disc brakes - the TRP Spyres are just about as much brake as I need without the added complexity of hydraulics.

If you go the CX route it's a very compelling candidate for a one-bike-to-rule-them-all kind of scenario. You might wish to take on terrain that your Stumpjumper can tackle, though, so a cross bike might not be up to too much gnar.

If you want to ride with your mate, and your mate rides road, buy a road bike. I think you have to ask yourself how often (if at all) in practice you will get time to change wheels/go for a ride off road.

Cross bikes are fun. For racing cross. If you've ridden mountain bikes for long enough, you'll find the off road performance of a cross bike a bit underwhelming. Also, at £1,300 you will struggle to get decent disc brakes (you will find cable discs surprisingly shite compared to hydros you are used to on a MTB) and the idea that you will be able to buy a second wheelset strikes me as challenging at that price.

no reason for cx bike to be much slower. GT grade with 30mm tubeless. Just completed Bryan Chapman Memorial audax on it. Would also have no qualms riding on gravel trails.

slick tyres offer more grip on the road than lumpy ones even in the wet.

If you go for two sets of wheels and end up with disc brakes, got for the same hubs and rotors so you don't have to realign the calipers all the time.

Not a lot more to add other than go for a CXer/gravelly thing, as a 'one bike to rule them all'. My cxer (merida cyclocross) is a commuter, the odd CX racer, and a winter roadie. On the stock rims (which aren't great) I can go from 25 slicks to 35 armadillos without even switching wheels (it's my only disc brake bike and I haven't bothered getting a second wheelset).

The CAADX 105 is a cracking all-rounder for the money. A mate has one and uses it for everything. However...

My one caveat with these bikes at your budget: I haven't had a great experience with mechanical discs. Given how much tinkering they can need and how they can need tweaking (and fail) mid-ride, I think they're an instance of the industry flogging downright dangerous turkeys. If I was buying another one it'd definitely have hydraulics.

Can only agree with this from LastboyScout.
I had a CX and it got nicked. Replaced with a carbon adventure bike (Jamis Renegade) and it's been fab both on and off road. So much so that rather than n+1 I will just get another set of wheels for it.
Test ride certainly put it above a couple of pure road bikes I was considering at the time. Mind you I am over 50 and not as supple as I used to be...

If/when my commuting bike needs replacing, I will almost certainly replace it with a CX/gravel bike, with 2 wheelsets.

I was in the same boat as you when I came over from MTB.
Got a CX but soon regretted it so stuck some slicks on and changed the chainset.
Still wasn't happy so pissed the wife off by getting a proper road bike.
Before I knew it I was fully lycrad and clipped in.
Don't know what you can take away from this story?
Get a CX and a roadie!

Have a carbon road bike and an ally CX from same manufacturer. Same 'size' but CX is shorter and slightly taller. Their carbon CX model is inbetween the two.
My CX bike is my favourite as with a change of wheels it can do almost anything I need. Have done a load of road riding over winter (discs, mudguards etc) and more recently bridleways and woods.

If had it all again I would actually get the carbon CX and be done with one bike.

I have a road bike, CX bike and a hybrid bike. By far my favourite is the CX bike but that maybe a slightly unfair comparison as is also the most expensive at more than double the cost of either of the others. However is not the groupset (which is the main reason for the extra cost) that make it the best for me, rather the comfort of the geometry and bigger tyres. I can run 35mm Vittoria Hyper tyres (which have an incredibly low rolling resistance and just soak up the potholes and bumps) and still fit mud guards to stop me getting covered in road crap. It's also enabled me to experience and fall in love with bike packing.
As far as drop bars are concerned, I was surprised how quickly I adapted (first bike was the flat bar hybrid) and how much I love them. I hope it's the same for you too.

As long as you find a bike that fits, in either style, my personal choice is CX because you can run wider tyres, mudguards and go offroad if you want to. I doubt many people will find a measurable difference in speed in a road bike vs a CX bike as long as you have fitted suitable tyres.

True, CX bikes are generally a little sturdier which can mean heavier and stiffer but nowadays you can have road tyres which are both fast and comfy in 30mm plus sizes for which many road/race bikes won't have clearance. They'll give you much improved comfort with no speed penalty.

If you're genuinely a racer and have lost that last 500 grams of body fat then sure, go for a full on race bike but otherwise I'd suggest that a more versatile bike will give you more fun.

I would say though, check the gear ratios and make sure they're suitable for your area and intentions. Most of the more CX race oriented bikes have a 46/36 chainset which I found to be too close so I changed for a 50/34 compact. This can add a fair cost to your initial purchase if you can't get the shop to swap them before you buy.

Whether your cx or road bike is more comfortable is about the geometry of the frame, not necessarily the individual setup.

If you buy a race-geometry cx frame, it could be a more aggressive position than a road bike, not less. Though most cx are 'usually' more upright i.e. less aggressive. And road bikes come in many different flavours, from race  to audax.

Setup such as tyres, wheels, seat post, bars, stem etc can all be changed and can alleviate or exacerbate discomfort.

So, checking out the stack and reach figures for similar sizes...

- Cube Cross Race Pro - 56cm - R 38.1cm S 55.5cm

- Giant TCX - M/52.5 -  R 37.5 cm  S 55.6 cm

- Cannondale CAADX - 54cm - R 37.9cm S 55.4cm

The Cube is marginally more aggressive, but there's not much in it. 

- Giant TCR Advanced 3 - M - R 38.3 cm   S 54.5 cm

So the TCR is more aggressive than the equivalent TCX. No surprise there. 

However...

- Merida Ride 500 - 54cm - R 36.7cm  S 59.1cm

That's one hell of an upright ride - less aggressive than any of the others.

(I've ignored the flat-bar bikes because, flat bar. Also interesting to note how varied the sizing is between brands - Giant M/52.5 is the nearest equivalent of a 56cm Cube!)

Other aspects of geometry will also affect the ride e.g. head tube and seat tube angles. And, as mentioned, the setup.

Back to the original question:

Bingo-P - do your physical limitations affect your flexibility? If so, you may be better off with the Merida. If you want to race your friend, go for the TCR.  The CX would be a happy medium, and you can always get another pair of tyres/wheels for your on or off road adventures.

3 bikes for me, all can take 40mm tyres and have disc brakes, tell you something about the preference for CX/adventure/trail?

Go CX or adventure as they're pretty much the same. Like others I went for one as they seem more robust and cover most bases. I keep thinking of getting a dedicated Road bike but that thought disappears every time I head down a trail.
Get some test rides done..

I have a fair few bikes, the wife would say too many, but that includes some high end carbon race bikes and a carbon race Cx bike with Force cx 1, hydraulic brakes etc. BUT, my pound for pound best bike and vfm has to be my old CAADx 105, which has been raced incl. 3 peaks, commuted on, done the odd chain gang, and proved pretty much bomb proof. OK, I've had to replace some "consumables" including wheels, but it's done over 15,000miles and had a hard life. With full guards it's a winter bike, changing to big slicks makes it perfect for commuting, but on narrower rubber it's not too shabby in a bunch of higher spec machines on the road. The Cx chainset will save your knees, but you will be spinning out at 30mph on 46x12t. You can always swap the chainset and cassette if you need more legs.  Only issues are BB30 bottom bracket, prone to the odd squeak and the fact you can no longer buy the caliper brake version. If anyone has a old caadx 56cm. I'd be interested

I've just built myself a cx bike which will be used both on and off-road. I'm going to get a second set of wheels and then swap them depending on what I'm doing with it.

I've got three bikes; road bike, CX and MTB.

I can honestly say that my favourite of them all is the CX bike. You can do plenty of miles on a CX bike, just as many as a road bike, and in much more comfort (but not at the same speed).  A £1000 will buy you plenty of bike (of any type). A few years ago I went for the Cube Cross Race. Love it to bits. Cube bikes are great value and look pretty as a picture (although they do cut costs in things like headsets and hubs; keep a good eye on them for maintenance).