[Jasonhenley]

Hi

 

applogies if this has been asked / answered elsewhere but posting on my iPhone as no computer at the mo. 

 

I have just converted to tubeless and my rear seems to be needing pumping up more than my front. 

 

Question is

hpw do you check for a puncture on a tubeless (apologies for dumb question)

Would you take tyre off and start again?

 

any help greatly appreciated. 

 

Thanks

 

 

Topic

[dottigirl]

kevvjj wrote:

kevvjj wrote:

Your friend has no idea. [and other similar comments…]

He’s a Saffer – he always knows best. About everything.

It doesn’t surprise me that you all say it’s overkill. 

[Anonymous]

dottigirl wrote:

Been out a few times with tubeless riders whose sealant either wasn’t enough or had dried out.

Friend was regaling me tonight with his six-monthly tubeless cleaning process – involves reinforcing any holes with patches. Along with the scrubbing off of the old glue, sounds like more trouble than they’re worth.

Your friend has no idea. Been using tubeless for 16 years now. Never scrubbed off old ‘glue’ (assume he means dried sealant). Only decent cuts that go through the carcass need a patch – have needed to do this less than ten times in 16 years. Standard thorn/glass punctures seal themselves – in fact you never even notice them. They can be a faff to set up but once done a simple top up of sealant every now and then is all that is needed.

[Jimthebikeguy.com]

Or use gorilla tape, thats
Or use gorilla tape, thats strong thick and cheap. And the idea of regularly scrubbing the tire out and changing the sealant is total overkill.

[MonkeyPuzzle]

I find giving my wheels a bit

I find giving my wheels a bit of tough love (bunny hops, wheelies etc.) just after I’ve set up new tyres will help seat the bead in any places where it might not be 100%. Also keeping them initially pumped ovenight at a much higher pressure than I would be riding them at helps as well.

 

As a side note, I’ve discovered Kapton tape, which is basically copper-coloured Stan’s but for £2.50 for 100ft rather than £15 for 30ft. Mistakes taping up are a lot easier to handle at that price.

[surly_by_name]

For slow leaks following

For slow leaks following initial installation, I usually just keep adding sealant every week or so until it stops and they stay inflated.  

[CXR94Di2]

Jasonhenley wrote:

Hi all

Many thanks for all your replies. 

Going to try the ‘bath tub’ routine today to see if where it is coming from. 

Should of put in that they are a new set of Hunt’s so I am hoping the tape is good (this was pre assembled) and I have put enough sealant in. Albeit I can not see any signs of leakage. 

I know they are a pain, but at this stage I wouldn’t go back to inner tubes. Maybe a combination of the new wheels, but they are more comfortable and faster. 

 

Thanks all again. 

 

If its Hunt’s gold tape that is semi transparent, then you might need to start again.  My experience is that its poor, cant take high pressure and will eventually burst where the spoke holes are.  My first set did this, I replaced it with Stans Tape(yellow and very strong) no more problems. 

[Jasonhenley]

Hi all

Hi all

Many thanks for all your replies. 

Going to try the ‘bath tub’ routine today to see if where it is coming from. 

Should of put in that they are a new set of Hunt’s so I am hoping the tape is good (this was pre assembled) and I have put enough sealant in. Albeit I can not see any signs of leakage. 

I know they are a pain, but at this stage I wouldn’t go back to inner tubes. Maybe a combination of the new wheels, but they are more comfortable and faster. 

 

Thanks all again. 

[CXR94Di2]

dottigirl wrote:

Been out a few times with tubeless riders whose sealant either wasn’t enough or had dried out.

Friend was regaling me tonight with his six-monthly tubeless cleaning process – involves reinforcing any holes with patches. Along with the scrubbing off of the old glue, sounds like more trouble than they’re worth.

 

What!?

Your friend is crackers with that overkill procedure.

 I havent put any sealant in one set of tyres for nearly 2 years.  I just ride them, check pressures once a month.  Im doing a long sportive next month and just as a precaution, I will top up the sealant through the valve core.  Tubeless is so easy, pin hole punctures are a thing of the past and major tyre damage is very rare indeed. 

[hawkinspeter]

I’ve had similar issues when

I’ve had similar issues when I’d tightened up the valve wrongly, but luckily it stopped the tyre from inflating properly so I had to fix it rather than keep re-inflating over several days. I managed to over-tighten the valve which broke the rubber o-ring that forms a seal against the rim.

Take the tyre off, undo the valve, give the valve hole a quick clean and re-fit the valve and try again. Also check that the valve inner core isn’t loose, though that’s unlikely to be the problem. And as others have said, make sure that you’re using some sealant in the tyre.

When tubeless is working, the tyre should just remain inflated exactly the same as with non-tubeless. If you do get a puncture, you’d probably get sealant coming out of the hole so it’d be easy to spot (no sealant coming out means that it’s already sealed and not a puncture anymore).

[Boombang]

Running DT Swiss R20 wheels,
Running DT Swiss R20 wheels, Stans valves and Schwalbe Pro Ones. Even without sealant they hold air as well as my other bike with tubes.

All in the prep as said above.

With DT valves the same setup would lose air even with sealant.

[mattydubster]

Defo worth the trouble.

Defo worth the trouble.  Seeing riders changing inners every fifty yards on The Dirty Reiver reminded me.

[dottigirl]

Been out a few times with

Been out a few times with tubeless riders whose sealant either wasn’t enough or had dried out.

Friend was regaling me tonight with his six-monthly tubeless cleaning process – involves reinforcing any holes with patches. Along with the scrubbing off of the old glue, sounds like more trouble than they’re worth.

[Anonymous]

Quickest way is to fill a

Quickest way is to fill a bathtub to just above the height of your wheel nipples. Should be able to see bubbles easily. Bubbles out of spoke nipples means not enought tape or valve isn’t tight enough against the rim bed. Bubbles from rim/tyre interface means not sealing correctly – add more sealant. Punctures will also be obvious.

Assuming you have used sealant? It could have dried up/been absorbed into the tyre already.

[CXR94Di2]

If it’s leaking from the
If it’s leaking from the spoke nipples, then the rim tape isn’t sealing properly. You would need to re tape with Stan’s tape of the correct width. I thorough clean of the rim and degrease before new tape fitted. Over lap 6-8″

[mattydubster]

Soapy water and a sponge mate

Soapy water and a sponge mate,  should let you know where the leaks are. 

I’m assuming you’ve used sealant?

[Author]

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