[roadgenius4]

I am a bit stuck in knowing exactly what bike i should be looking at getting. If money was no issue then I could get what I want, a specialized diverge. But money is an issue and therefore i need to make a compromise on a second hand bike.

I currently have an Allez Sport with full 105 11 speed, and fulcrum r5 wheels. Its currently my fair weather fast bike and I really like it. I used to have a sirrus as well which i rode as an all round bike which could sort of go on rougher paths and also be reasonable on the road, however I  soon got bored of the sirrus and found it frustrating with the flat bars, realizing i much prefer drop bars for the positions and aero advanatages.

I’m young therefore flexibility is not a problem and I am comfortable on my Allez which is a more race orientated bike as opposed to endurance.

So here’s what I want:

A bike which is fast enough on road (doesn’t have to be super fast)

Clearance for wider tyres (25 or 28) & mudguards or some sort (i have got on ok with the crud mk2s on my allez)

Reasonably comfortable geometry although not overly upright.

Smooth ride over rougher roads and a few gravel paths.

Mainly for wet weather or leisurely rides with family etc.

Not bothered about groupset, sora or claris is fine as i intend to not worry about maintenance too much. (at least not as much as my nice bike)

Im happy for it to be an older bike or something a bit rougher looking as looks arent too important here.

Im fairly competent with mechanics and do all my own building and maintainence on my bikes.

Have looked into cx bikes although they look too heavy and slow.

Tourning bikes look a bit too relaxed.

Endurance road bikes are probably my best option.

I do have a spare set of road wheels and have Sora STIs, brakes, F&R derailleur and could get hold of chainset so building a bike is an option

Topic

[AEB]

That is a SERIOUSLY tasty

That is a SERIOUSLY tasty bike there Sam, love your work!

[Sam Alison]

You could do worse than a new
You could do worse than a new Singular Kite. Light steel, full carbon fork, proper mudguard eyelets and clearance for big tyres.

[Simburnett]

Definitely agree with cx

Definitely agree with cx suggestions, plus disc much better for off road use 

ive just picked up a cracking kinesis pro six (cx) frame . They have just brought out the new version which means the pro 6 v1 is much cheaper

 

[chaos]

Try to remember that whatever

Try to remember that whatever great bike (according to its manufacturers) you buy this year, will be 2nd best next year.

All bikes are great. If you ever doubt your bike, go stand in a bus shelter, or wait on a railway platform, or pay a taxi fare, or run a car, etc. etc.

What is the best bike? The one you get to ride!

[Carton]

If 28mm is as wide as you

If 28mm is as wide as you need with the Giant Defy is really good bang for the buck at the moment. I’d consider the Grade or a cheaper/used frameset if you’re going wider.

[ru w00dsy]

I’d agree with the comments

I’d agree with the comments regarding CX Bikes and their weight. My wet weather ride is a Genesis CDF, steel frame, steel fork and weighs approx 12.5kgs. With the right wheels and tyres I can keep up with the lighter bikes. Again swapping the wheels and tyres I can ride trails, canal paths etc and is ideal for riding with the family.

 Acceleration isn’t the same as my lighter bikes and I don’t race up the really nasty hills, but tapping out a nice rythm going up steady and its absolutely fine.

Having the ability to put on 32/35 tyres as well as 28’s is what makes the CX type bike my choice if I could only have one. If I really had to I’d swap the fork out for a light carbon disc compatible fork, but not something to be done straight away.

If I was buying a new do it all bike, my personal preference would be a second hand Genesis Croix Der Fer. It has a great frame that I would then upgrade over time, slick 28m tyres (conti 4 season etc) hydraulic brakes and going to 105. There are then other options if you really wanted to make it lighter (saddle, seatpost, bars, stem etc) – but thats not really what a do it all bike is about.

I have a 6.5kg bike, a 7.3kg bike and a 12.5kg bike. I get as much enjoyment riding the 12.5kg steel bike as I do riding the lighter bikes. There is a speed difference, but its not as much of a gap as you may think. The price difference is horrendous, the speed difference isn’t!

[allanj]

Kadinkski wrote:

You can get the 2015  GT Grade (Sora) for £499.00 at the moment.

 

That’s a good buy at that price

[Kadinkski]

You can get the 2015  GT

You can get the 2015  GT Grade (Sora) for £499.00 at the moment.

[allanj]

GT grade or cannondale

GT grade or cannondale synapse would be worth a look based on your requirements

[dottigirl]

If you feel confident enough

If you feel confident enough building a bike, you could pick up a Kinesis Racelight frameset from the Upgrade outlet. Perfect for a winter bike – clearance, mudguards, etc. Even a Crosslight if you fancy more off-roading.

[peted76]

Cx bike or a second hand

Cx bike or a second hand giant defy (cause there are millions of em and therefore cheap second hand – not withstanding the fact the bike has won a gazillion awards) 

[AEB]

HowardR wrote:

HowardR wrote:

(a) Don’t get hung up on brands, models or marketing department created ‘genres’ of bike. (b) From my experience with the bikes I’ve had, the closest to a ‘Do-It-All’ is the sort of thing that often gets marketed as a ‘CX’ bike. Not the sort of thing with no bottle cages & a high BB but one that can take mudguards & a rack (for the wet weather & family bits) (c) When you’ve bought the bike invest in a spare set of wheels, lighter than the ‘day-to-days’, shod with some swift tyres & a closer ratio block for when you want to go faster. – To a large extent it’s the wheels & tyres that give the ‘Wizz'

Wisdom.

I use a CX bike for everything and have seperate wheels/tyres for club runs. Although mine is a ‘high BB/no bottle cage’ job, rides absolutely fine and is perfectly quick enough to keep up with the fast boys on a club run 🙂

 

 

[Bike Science]

HowardR wrote:

HowardR wrote:

(a) Don’t get hung up on brands, models or marketing department created ‘genres’ of bike.

That is a great answer. I would add : Don’t get hung up on anything marketing departments tell you about the geometry of bikes too. Go to a local shop and get some sound advice from someone who has a good reputation in your local area.

 

[HowardR]

(a) Don’t get hung up on
(a) Don’t get hung up on brands, models or marketing department created ‘genres’ of bike.

(b) From my experience with the bikes I’ve had, the closest to a ‘Do-It-All’ is the sort of thing that often gets marketed as a ‘CX’ bike. Not the sort of thing with no bottle cages & a high BB but one that can take mudguards & a rack (for the wet weather & family bits)

(c) When you’ve bought the bike invest in a spare set of wheels, lighter than the ‘day-to-days’, shod with some swift tyres & a closer ratio block for when you want to go faster. – To a large extent it’s the wheels & tyres that give the ‘Wizz’

[Accessibility for all]

> too heavy and slow

> too heavy and slow

It’s the rider who’s too heavy or slow.  I ride on a steel-framed Mercian and have no trouble keeping up with other cyclists.

Think about it, do you think on your modern bike you’d be able to compete with pros from the 1980s, riding their steel steeds?

[Author]

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