[Poptart242]

Hello all,

I’m relatively new here, so here’s the intro bit – I’m a 26 year old guy from Edinburgh who took up the sport back in March on a Trek 1.1. Since then I’ve covered around 3000km, so I’m fairly hooked and want to upgrade soon!

I used to struggle a fair bit on the climbs (90kg back when I started, 82kg now) so I suppose my main issue back then was the low range of gears available (11-25 & a compact front). I still find it difficult to spin up some of the steeper grades around here, but I’ve yet to climb off. Managed Holme Moss a few times back in July too!

I usually ride to work a few times per week (just under 30km), all roads. I’ll go for a longer one at the weekend (getting to 100km now) and a few training loops of Arthur’s Seat after work a couple of times per week too.

So, to my what-bikery…

I love the Trek, but it’s a) too big – rookie mistake b) heavy and a little un-responsive c) uncomfortable past 60km.

My problem is a dodgy wrist – I broke it quite badly at the end of last year, meaning that I can’t fully turn it in the ‘looking at a watch’ motion. This causes me some discomfort when I’m on longer rides.

So between that, and my local roads not being the smoothest, I’d like to look at something a little more comfortable.

Obviously my first thoughts go to something like a Trek Domane or a Specialized Roubaix, but I wonder if there’s something else I should be thinking about (or if that’s overkill)?

Also, my frame right now is Aluminium – would simply switching to carbon eliminate a lot of the buzz I get through my wrist?

My budget would be around the standard £1k mark, but I could be persuaded to go above this for something pretty! 8>

Cheers!
Poptart

Topic

[Poptart242]

I just wanted to drop back in
I just wanted to drop back in to the thread to say thanks for the helpful responses guys!

As goes the current situation, the suggestions are all good ones. I’ve swapped out my tape for some slightly spongier stuff, raised my stem and shifted my saddle slightly further forward. It’s a case of managing discomfort now really.

Going forward, I’ve settled on a 2015 Ribble Sportive Racing (with Shimano 105 5800 build for under a grand seems far too good to turn down!) as the uprightish geometry and much smaller frame will help me out a bunch. Between that and some extra padded grips, I should be ok! Just need to work on pushing out more than 200 watts on average so that more weight is on my feet 😉 Oh, and actually losing weight…

Thanks again all.

[matthewn5]

Consider the Canyon Roadlite
Consider the Canyon Roadlite or Ultimate AL 9.0 which come with outstanding carbon seatpost and forks and are pretty well as good as aluminium comes at the moment. Note that the Roadlite has a more upright seating position than the Ultimate. There’s usually a handful on Ebay or you could go new from Germany if you prefer. I find mine as comfortable as the Bianchi Infinito over distances – if a little lower at the front.

You can keep the Trek for winter/shopping/locking up outside pubs etc.

One thing, the tops are the most rigid part of the bars, the drops are the most flexible because there’s more material to bend between your hand and the stem. I’ve always noticed when I get in the drops the vibration goes and it’s a much calmer overall feeling. Of course, that might put more weight on your wrist unless you have the seat back – which also makes the seat more flexible.

[Blue_Brevatto]

If you go down the new bike
If you go down the new bike route then see if you can vary the spec. – which is one for sticking with your LBS option.
Ask them to fit the best padded/gel bar tape they have (it varies hugely in thickness & price!).
You could also ask them to fit extra padding underneath the tape. The old-school method was to use a discarded inner-tube but these days you can also get gel strips that fit on the tops and in the drops to add extra comfort at the likely pressure points. The Misses has these on her tourer and it definitely gives a gentler ride.
To avoid having to twist your neck so much you could temporarily fit a mirror. Almost all of them are going to look pretty uncool on a road bike but there are some helmet mounted ones (so at least the bike still looks cool!) but also there’s at least one design that fits discretely into the end of a road handlebar.
Consider what handlebar geometry suits you best – most of my bikes have “anatomic, deep drop” bars but one of them came with a compact shallow drop bar and I don’t really like it – it’s OK but the alternate design suits my hands / riding style better.
Since you have special reqts it might be worth getting a proper bike-fit. The kind you’d expect to pay for if you aren’t buying a bike from the same shop. That way you can ask for a riding position that specifically reduces the fraction of weight borne by your arms (and wrists). This will probably involve moving your CofG rearwards relative to the pedals(I think) and it will compromise other things like max. power – but it might be worth it if it keeps you riding longer.
One last suggestion would be to try some aero-bars – not because you want to TT – but because you can rest on your elbows with your wrists unloaded.

One final thought is not to pin too much hope that a new bike (with or without any of the above) will have a major impact on the pain of riding with a damaged wrist. Carbon frames, gel inserts, padded bars – it’s all marginal gains at best. If you ride a road bike over UK roads it’s going to vibrate and you’re going to feel it. The changes discussed will improve things slightly for someone who is fully fit – but it won’t make up for you carrying an injury. Of course you have other reasons for buying a new bike as you said – but just don’t expect it to miraculously make up for partly healed bones. Only Spanish docs can work those sorts of miracles !

[Blue_Brevatto]

If you go down the new bike
If you go down the new bike route then see if you can vary the spec. – which is one for sticking with your LBS option.
Ask them to fit the best padded/gel bar tape they have (it varies hugely in thickness & price!).
You could also ask them to fit extra padding underneath the tape. The old-school method was to use a discarded inner-tube but these days you can also get gel strips that fit on the tops and in the drops to add extra comfort at the likely pressure points. The Misses has these on her tourer and it definitely gives a gentler ride.
To avoid having to twist your neck so much you could temporarily fit a mirror. Almost all of them are going to look pretty uncool on a road bike but there are some helmet mounted ones (so at least the bike still looks cool!) but also there’s at least one design that fits discretely into the end of a road handlebar.
Consider what handlebar geometry suits you best – most of my bikes have “anatomic, deep drop” bars but one of them came with a compact shallow drop bar and I don’t really like it – it’s OK but the alternate design suits my hands / riding style better.
Since you have special reqts it might be worth getting a proper bike-fit. The kind you’d expect to pay for if you aren’t buying a bike from the same shop. That way you can ask for a riding position that specifically reduces the fraction of weight borne by your arms (and wrists). This will probably involve moving your CofG rearwards relative to the pedals(I think) and it will compromise other things like max. power – but it might be worth it if it keeps you riding longer.
One last suggestion would be to try some aero-bars – not because you want to TT – but because you can rest on your elbows with your wrists unloaded.

One final thought is not to pin too much hope that a new bike (with or without any of the above) will have a major impact on the pain of riding with a damaged wrist. Carbon frames, gel inserts, padded bars – it’s all marginal gains at best. If you ride a road bike over UK roads it’s going to vibrate and you’re going to feel it. The changes discussed will improve things slightly for someone who is fully fit – but it won’t make up for you carrying an injury. Of course you have other reasons for buying a new bike as you said – but just don’t expect it to miraculously make up for partly healed bones. Only Spanish docs can work those sorts of miracles !

[Poptart242]

That’s some very solid advice
That’s some very solid advice Parksey, thank you.

I really do fancy having two bikes, and being able to keep the Trek for shopping trips and other places I wouldn’t take something nicer. Buying the Trek was the right thing to do at the time, as I had no idea if it would end up in the cupboard with the Ukelele as another failed hobby. Turns out I’m a little bit hooked!

I agree on the alu/carbon – my gut tells me that higher end alu will be as good as lower end carbon. Means more money for a decent groupset & finishing kit too. My LBS is a Cannondale/Giant dealer, so I’ll be speaking to them about some test rides this weekend!

My gloves are super-padded, I really notice the difference with my wrist if I wear my spare mitts. I’ve found myself riding more and more on the tops in order to put as much padding between me and the bike as possible recently.

Much appreciated.

[parksey]

As much as upgrading has it’s
As much as upgrading has it’s merits, there’s always room for a new bike!

The Trek you’re on is still a decent bike, but very much at the entry level, whereas somewhere at/above the grand mark will get you a good mid-level bike. The law of diminishing returns sets in pretty quickly with bikes, but jumping up a good £500 or more at this level will certainly offer you noticeable improvements in things like the weight of the bike and the quality of the gear change.

I wouldn’t automatically head towards a carbon frame though. Others will inevitably disagree, but you won’t necessarily find the best quality carbon at this price, so the extent to which a (cheap) carbon frame will offer much in the way of vibration damping over a good aluminium one is going to be fairly negligible.

As you suggest, if you do have problems with your wrist then one of the growing range of endurance (read, comfort) bikes would be where to start. They generally all have some additional form of damping designed into the frame/fork/stays/seatpost which will help isolate road vibrations and make for a smoother ride. As an alternative, perhaps look at a steel bike, as they’re generally noted for their ride qualities too. Genesis make some rather lovely bikes which are widely available.

You’ve otherwise mentioned a couple of the main contenders yourself, plus the new Giant Defys look decent, and the Cannondale Synapse is a perennial favourite too, both come in alu and carbon versions to suit your budget. Also, Canyon have just launched the Endurace (terrible name) to pretty rave reviews, which you can get in a carbon frame with an 11-spd Shimano 105 build for about £1200. That to me looks very tempting indeed, although bear in mind that Canyon are online only, so you’re unlikely to be able to test ride beforehand.

Couple of other things to think about, if reducing vibration around the hand/wrist is what you’re after, think about upgrading to a carbon handlebar and/or stem. Similarly, it may also be worth reassessing the gloves you wear, and whether they also offer sufficient padding to help reduce impacts.

[Poptart242]

That’s a pretty decent route
That’s a pretty decent route to go I suppose Charles. I wonder whether it’s worth upgrading an entry level bike though – new wheels would probably exceed it’s value.

I used to run at silly high pressures before I knew how much of an effect they can have, but now I’m on 700×25 and 85-90 psi. Possibly worth looking at going up a size again.

Thanks for the input though, I’ll definitely look into the wheels and weigh up the options.

[Charles_Hunter]

Sorry I didn’t put the
Sorry I didn’t put the reasoning, that’ll increase the responsiveness of your bike, reduce the weight and make it move comfortable.

[Charles_Hunter]

Unsure if you have thought of
Unsure if you have thought of upgrading your current bike, a wheel upgrade to say Mavic aksium or better and a decent pair of tyres and wider than your current ones, say continental 4000s 25mm or 28mm on the rear if your frame will take 28mm, i’d stay 25mm max on the front.

Maybe look at your tyre pressures too, if they are 110+.

[Author]

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