Bike Service - What would you expect to go wrong after 1700 miles?

Ok first things first. The bike is classed as winter because it can take mudguards, presumably with good sized tyres. Not that componenty will last forever and day.

I take it you are using Microshift components, of which I have sod all experiance with so can not comment. But it could be simply that Microshift parts are not as good as the major three.The front mech sounds a bit dodgy as does the rear wheel. New bearings depend on how hard you hit pot holes.

The worse case scenario is that the shop have just taken you for a ride and replaced bits that maybe worn but not knackered. Ala motorplaces that offer free brake check and tell you that the brand new parts on the brand new car were knackered and dangerous, so were replaced.

At 2700km I would expect to have to adjust my shift cables as they will have stretched. But I would be very surprised to have to change anything.

The only reason the bearings would go in your wheels would be if the seals were unfit for purpose.

A "crack" in the front mech sounds like a warranty issue. I don't understand how you crack a front mech.

Save yourself some money by riding your chain and cassette for another 7.5k. You will have to replace them all (and chainrings) in the end but if your chain has already stretched to the point that you need to buy a new cassette and if your shifting isn't suffering then (provided you are using the chain and cassette together and you aren't swapping in another wheel/cassette from time to time or using same wheel/cassette on another bike) I'd ride it into the ground.

Heavy rider? Lots of hills? Ride in the rain? Aggressively? All make a big difference in component life. Compare it to car mileage - 10K miles on the motorway is probably less wearing than 1000 miles in the city. I recently read the instructions with some Campy components and they warned that riders over 80 kgs needed to be extra cautious. 80 kgs is 176 lb!

So a small, cautious rider in flat country who only rides in dry weather is going to see a lot more life from components than a heavy rider in attack mode on the hills in the rain.

For the most part, it's easy enough to tell when bits are knackered. A chain life tool is £5 (or you can just measure). Bearings (incl. BB) should be obvious by feel. Cassettes chainrings and brake pads you can eyeball.

Most bikes never get ridden far enough to wear anything out (I bet). So you might decide in subsequent purchases to get a bike that matches your riding style and needs. That's the benefit of experience.

It depends....

I would expect more than 1700miles out of those parts. Only perhaps a chain may need replacing if you ride in sand or grit a lot (I know its a road bike, but you never know!). The problem is that I have found quite a few parts wear or break quicker that expected, and a lot tend to be non-Shimano/Campag/SRAM parts in the drivechain. Most generic seatposts tend to be ok on road bikes, but moving parts seem to be dodgier. Perhaps it is because they are built in large factories in the Far East on behalf of other manufacturers and therefore do not have the same QC as the big named companies who make their own kit, and also they do not have to worry about their own reputation as their name is not on the kit.
But other things come into it too - is the bike stored inside? Is it ridden through the winter? Is it properly cleaned? I also think a problem is that with parts like cartridge BBs and bearings that you often cannot service them and so they are often left to look after themselves. If they develop play then they are not serviced but rather they are left to run until they fall apart which may be a very quick process.

I put a lot of power through my cranks, which is why (apparently) I've gone through two bottom brackets in as many years.

Otherwise, as everyone else has said, it depends on the type of riding you do, the type of surfaces and conditions you ride in/on, the components themselves and how they are maintained & cleaned.

Front brake pads would need replacing, indexing fine tuned, bolts re torqued, brake and gear cables adjusted after a bit of stretching, not much else...

Brake pads, that'd be about it at 3000km.

Chain a bit later on (depending upon how clean you keep it) and cassette if you don't replace your chain (aiming for about three chains to each cassette).

Tyres should last about 5000km unless they're race tyres - I've had double that with some brands.

Bottom brackets are a bit in the firing line - £20 disposable part every year or so. Wheel bearings hopefully last longer than your rims but you might be unlucky.

Cables (in and out) and bar tape once a year because you're worth it.

This is all my experience with upper-mid groupsets (105 / Force). Cheaper stuff is... Cheap.

Brake pads, that'd be about it at 3000km.

Chain a bit later on (depending upon how clean you keep it) and cassette if you don't replace your chain (aiming for about three chains to each cassette).

Tyres should last about 5000km unless they're race tyres - I've had double that with some brands.

Bottom brackets are a bit in the firing line - £20 disposable part every year or so. Wheel bearings hopefully last longer than your rims but you might be unlucky.

Cables (in and out) and bar tape once a year because you're worth it.

This is all my experience with upper-mid groupsets (105 / Force). Cheaper stuff is... Cheap.

Well I have an 8 speed cassette and I've changed the chain once and cassette once in about 14000 miles. The chain needs a change soon and to be honest apart from something caused by a silly accident I've only spent money on tyres and inner tubes. I let the LBS do the chain and cassette the first time as I was lacking in experience but now I've got a tool for the cassette because my daughter wanted to take an old wheel apart for a photography project! Just need to get a chain tool to do the chain myself next time and the cassette later when it needs it.

I've got a Specialized Secteur Triple 2011. A bit heavy but reliable. I did a lot of miles in the wet winter weather and to be honest I'm not the most assiduous cleaner of a bike but that is a little deliberate to make it less appealing to the numerous bike thieves in Cambridge.

hope the 1700miles was all good riding
as already said little and often helps on reducing a big bill but no surprise I'll use a forum to grind a personal axe!
My suspicions are that 10speed chains wear very quickly irrespective of ride conditions - I ride my 9speed CX (non racing AKA drop bar hybrid) thru all sorts of stuff and expect a chain to last 1500/2000miles as that is what I experienced with 8 and 9 speed MTBs with Peak District gritstone grinding paste.
Mrs antigee's 10speed road bike was shifting so so recently and I checked chain and is well stretched at a lot less than 1000miles after a chain and cassette replacement.
The Carrera TDF mentioned is 8 speed I think - "cheap" components but reliable (that's my axe grinding!) but even then at some point there will be a major service and it will cost chain/cassette/chain rings BB / cable / headsets nothing lasts forever but some older robust kit does seem to last longer

As to the wheel bearings I'm not familiar with the wheel set but suspect so called sealed bearings - great if live in dry countries - but if you regularly ride in the rain then a wheel set with easily serviceable cup and cone bearings is the way to go - but only if you bother to service them its definitely my least favourite job

not sure on the crack if mean front mech or chain ring - neither ok and possible unusual

costs less than £10 for a chain check tool and that saves wondering why shifting is poor and being able to replace a chain will prolong cassette life and isn't hard with some chains and can quite often be picked up in sales for a big discount on the RRP

Reading the above comments, to clarify my duty, I do a lot of climbing in all weathers, but also keep the drive train very clean.

Was your shock the number of issues, or what it was costing you!

If you take care of most of the easier/intermediate stuff yourself you'll save a fortune both on that work and by reducing the wear on parts. To have problem with both hubs sounds like they weren't greased sufficiently, and that's caused premature wear. It's easy to top that up yourself between services. All you need is a grease gun (ask the LBS for the grease they use), cone spanners and an hour of fiddling until you get good at it.

You should check whether you actually *need* a cassette, or they're just changing it with the chain. Once every three chains is the usual rule of thumb for us cheapskates. For the chain itself, paying an LBS to change that isn't much different to paying them to change a tube, everyone should be able to do that themselves.

And with the money you save, reward your LBS by going back and buying more stuff!

Doesn't it depend on what type of rider you are and the terrain you're riding on?

I'm a pensioner, not powerful or fast and ride mainly in the flatlands of Cheshire.

My Carrera TdF is approaching 4k miles and the cheap components I was warned about are operating as well as the day I bought the bike.

I guess that a younger, stronger, faster rider who is pounding up and down hill would have reduced this bike to scrap by the same mileage

Change after winter, its fairly knacked by then. Good for summer, and then knack it over winter again.

seems to work (although, if you have any big plans in the summer, change for them as well!)

Ok, on my 'ye olde' stuff, the following is gubbed every 2500 miles one average ( no effect on riding, but obviously worn if properly inspected)

Front and rear hub loose balls
Bottom bracket loose balls
Chain
All Cables
Headset bearing (clean and lube, not replace)
Brake pads

At 5000 miles the cassettes/ freewheels are past their best and the bar tape worn

Hub cones last 10 years plus.
I've yet to have a derailleur fail unless it's been badly damaged

Be aware that 'the official' advice is to swap chains and cassettes at the same time, it's sometimes correct, but I usually just do the chain, if it slips even after running in, the cassette then gets done. Bear in mind a campag record chain and cassette is about 300 quid!