Metallic noise from cockpit on rough surfaces

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    Topic
  • #32283
    Psi163

    Hi All,

    I had a bike built last year with an Enigma Titanium frame, SRAM Force/Red AXS drivetrain and brakes and ZIPP carbon bars/seat tube and 3T aluminium stem. I am continually getting a metallic ping/creak when I go over bumps or rough surfaces.  I have tried cleaning interfaces and greasing bolts but it doesn’t help.  I found from a thread on one forum that loosening and retightening the headset might work.  I tried it and for 30km or so, everything was fine and then it started again and gets worse over time.  Another play with the headset gave me the same result..ok for an hour or so of riding and then one sharp bump seems to set it off again.? One strange thing, my fork is carbon and so there is not just a star nut inside but some kind of bung.  When I try to loosens/re-tighten the headset (after loosening the stem bolts), I get rid of any slack but don’t seem to be able to get the headset to overtighten and ‘bind’. I am afraid of might happen if I turn the nut too far but I seem to be able to go a good full turn after all slack has gone…and don’t want to try any further.  Was wondering whether this is something to do with the problem… any advice welcome!  
     

    Simon

Viewing 5 replies - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
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  • #1006393
    0
    andystow

    Internal cables rattling

    Internal cables rattling inside the bar or stem?

    #1006391
    0
    Wingguy

    If you’re able to tighten it

    If you’re able to tighten it enough that it seems ok but almost immediately slips it could be that the top cap is bottoming out on the for steerer / bung before fully preloading the bearings. It might be that the steerer tube is fractionally too long and either needs shaving down or a 2mm spacer adding. Or possibly the bung has slipped upwards on the first occasion and is now preventing proper preload if it’s the type that has a lip that rests on the top of the steerer tube.

    That said, if you’re able to preload it fully and still turn the topcap bolt further it’s probably more likely that the bung is not tight enough inside the steerer and by turning the topcap bolt further you’re just dragging it up the steerer tube.

    #1006389
    0
    IanMSpencer

    The wedges inside the headset
    The wedges inside the headset are notoriously fiddly to torque correctly, and once they’ve started slipping they tend not to want to tighten as they shave material off the interior of the tube..

    My starting point would be to remove, clean with alcohol and then apply a small amount of carbon grip, then re-tighten to spec. torque, no tighter.

    However, frames transmit noise from all over and noise apparently from the headset can be from just about anywhere.

    #1006387
    0
    Podc

    I’d guess the bung is

    I’d guess the bung is slipping up inside the steerer causing the bearing preload to be reduced. Check the manufacturers specs for the torque setting on the bung – I’ve seen carbon steerers wrecked due to over tightening. And be aware that running a loose headset on a carbon steerer can cause a groove to be worn on the steerer making it unsafe. 

    #1006385
    0
    Critman

    Some helpful tips on squeaks

    Some helpful tips on squeaks & creaks – https://bit.ly/3ynxXkZ

Viewing 5 replies - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
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