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Tyre change

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  • April 30, 2022 at 3:40 pm #32068
    Tazio

    Hello there I have been running on schwalbe pro one tubeless last year but have decided as I have a side wall slash to return to tubes as I have to replace the tyres .

    I do a mix of sports touring and general road cycling have been looking at the continental gp5000 700×30 any comments on these ? Also what sort of pressure can I run these at ? i weight only 75kg I know I will have to run these higher than my tubeless pro ones but on the conti website they suggest for the standard clincher 102 PSI which seems very high and I assume will give a pretty harsh ride .

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  • May 6, 2022 at 6:54 am #991893
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    IanMSpencer

    I was pleased and surprised
    I was pleased and surprised to get them (5000TLs) on my Giant rims without levers and even more surprised to get them inflate without sealant with just a track pump.

    As others have said, there is a trick to getting any tyre on, forcing the bead into the rim well, and then, holding the tyre against your stomach, supported with your knees, push as much slack as you can towards the rim furthest away from you. Repeat this, a few mm of movement makes a massive difference.

    The critical point is always when there is about 15-20cm of tyre remaining, working each end over the rim. If you can get it down to between 5-10cm it then will pop over by hand. I’ve got some Schwalbe soapy stuff that came with a set of Pro Ones that I have used to help, but usually don’t bother. I try to avoid tyre levers on tubeless in case you dent the bead.

    May 5, 2022 at 9:24 pm #991891
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    rdaddict

    102 psi for a 30mm tyre
    102 psi for a 30mm tyre sounds a lot, surely that’s the maximum recommended pressure?
    I have used Conti GP 4 season tyres in 28mm at 70 psi and they performed brilliantly with no punctures. In the winter months I use 28mm Michelin Pro 4 Endurance which have proved to be most puncture resistant thanks to the bead to bead protection. I’m currently running 28mm Vredestein Senso Superiores with Revoloop Race Inner tubes at 75psi and the combination is a real winner!

    May 4, 2022 at 2:13 pm #991889
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    Simon E

    For 700×25 I use rider weight

    For 700×25 I use rider weight (in kg) in the front tyre, adding 5-10 psi for the rear.

    But that should be a starting point – you may prefer to run your tyres softer / firmer than those values.

    May 4, 2022 at 10:10 am #991887
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    srchar

    I’ve found that Veloflex

    I’ve found that Veloflex clinchers with latex tubes are “nicer” to ride than any tubeless road tyre I’ve tried, and feel very similar to tubulars, except when cornering hard, where tubulars really do show up clinchers and tubeless IMHO.

    I wouldn’t use latex tubes with rim brakes, and I do have to pump them up every other day, but I unwittingly find myself in the Luddite camp when it comes to tyres.

    May 4, 2022 at 9:49 am #991885
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    kil0ran

    Schwalbe levers are the key
    Schwalbe levers are the key to a (happier) fitting experience. Pin the bead in with two levers (at about the five to one position on the clock face) use the third to lift it over the rim bit by bit. As each bit goes in slide the pinning levers along the hook.

    May 4, 2022 at 9:33 am #991883
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    OnYerBike

    Shame the calculator doesn’t

    Shame the calculator doesn’t go down to 25mm tyres which unfortunately is the widest that will fit on my very retro (2015) road bike…

    May 4, 2022 at 8:37 am #991881
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    KDee
    ktache wrote:
    Hey, when using the calculator, it gives me roughly what I have found works for my 2.1s on my 26 inch bikes.

    Gets a nod from me.

    And a nod from me too. Running 32mm Conti GP5000 TL’s front and rear, at about 55 and 60psi, which is pretty close to the recommendation.

    May 4, 2022 at 8:37 am #991879
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    Anonymous

    I found myhe pzeros much
    I found my pzeros much harder to fit.
    I hang mine in front of a fire for a few mins, my theory is it gives them a bit of stretch

    May 4, 2022 at 8:15 am #991877
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    Chris Hayes

    I found the 5000s tight – it

    I found the 5000s tight – it helps if you ensure the tyre bead inside the rim is in the centre of the rim where the diameter is smaller

    May 4, 2022 at 7:36 am #991875
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    kinderje

    Agree. My 4000’s had worn out

    Agree. My 4000’s had worn out so changed to the 5000’s I had bought last year. I sweated more getting them on than I would if I’d spent an hour on the turbo – they were horrible to put on.

    May 4, 2022 at 7:02 am #991873
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    IanMSpencer

    Easy, because it’s only in
    Easy, because it’s only in the last 10 years that running lower pressure has been a thing on road bikes. Before then 23mm with at least 100psi was considered the correct thing.

    You will still find plenty of people who don’t read up on cycling stuff will not have changed their thinking. They are also encouraged by sidewall printing which quotes a maximum pressure which, like speed limits, people often treat as targets.

    May 3, 2022 at 6:21 pm #991871
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    emjay49

    Same …sort of 60 /65 front
    Same …sort of 60 /65 front and 65/70 rear seems to be my sweet spot on 28s.

    May 3, 2022 at 5:53 pm #991869
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    pablo

    Why do people run such high
    Why do people run such high pressures? I’m 83kg GP4000 and 5000 through the winter 80psi on a 25mm tyre. Pro ones tubeless on 303s 58psi. Punctures in 4 years 15000miles = zero.

    May 3, 2022 at 9:15 am #991867
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    Hirsute

    Too many nuts !

    Too many nuts !

    May 3, 2022 at 8:43 am #991865
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    hawkinspeter

    I’m starting to think that I

    I’m starting to think that I should bump up the pressure in my tyres after reading the comments. I’m running 28mm GP5000TLs tubeless and I aim for around or just below 70psi. I usually let them drop air pressure over time and so quite often ride around on approx 60psi.

    (Just weighed myself and *gulp* just gone over 100kgs)

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