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135mm wheel into 130mm dropouts???

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  • January 24, 2021 at 10:58 am #31382
    CX-3

    I’ve got a bike with 130mm rear drop outs. I can get a new wheel for it, but onl;y in 135mm spacing. Are there likely to be a ny problems? I’ll only be using it on the turbo.

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Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
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  • January 30, 2021 at 10:50 am #975409
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    matthewn5

    Some tourers and trekking

    Some tourers and trekking bikes are made to 132.5mm spacing, so they can take either qr ‘road’ wheels (130 mm OLN) or ‘touring’ wheels (135 mm OLN). Spreading/closing a steel frame that much will not hurt it – see Sheldon Brown’s advice if you’re worried.

    January 25, 2021 at 12:45 pm #975407
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    CX-3

    Thanks guys.

    Thanks guys.

    Frame is an old steel 531 from Ribble. I thought there wouldn’t be a problem. Thanks for confirming that.

    January 25, 2021 at 12:33 pm #975405
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    spen

    130 is standard on road bikes

    130 is standard on road bikes, 135 on mountain bikes.  130 was standard on mountain bikes when 7 speed blocks were common, as they got more sprockets hub width went to 135.

    January 25, 2021 at 9:10 am #975403
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    Tom_77

    Maybe I’m missing something,

    Maybe I’m missing something, but isn’t 130mm a standard size for a wheel and quite easy to find?

     

    January 25, 2021 at 9:05 am #975401
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    Recoveryride

    Worth pointing out that alu

    Worth pointing out that alu frames, especially older ones, can and do crack (ask anyone who had a scandium frame c.2000, or a 1990s Yeti). While the whole situation is a bit odd and unexplained, I’d think there are surely better options than risking that.

    January 25, 2021 at 8:23 am #975399
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    David9694

    if and only if it’s steel,

    if and only if it’s steel, you should spring it out to 132.5. 
     

    that said and I haven’t done this myself it looks to me on my Shimano 135 mm wheel that the 5mm extra is mainly made up of a cyclindrical spacer on the NDS  – it does makes me wonder. 
     

    I got the wheel because it’s supposed to be stronger if the flanges are further apart – makes sense – but they’re not, to any noticeable degree.

    January 24, 2021 at 9:55 pm #975397
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    Recoveryride

    While it might work on a

    While it might work on a steel frame, it almost certainly won’t on an alu or carbon one, and is still fraught with risk in the case of steel. Is there a particular reason you need a new wheel? Bit of context here would help!

    January 24, 2021 at 8:30 pm #975395
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    Freddy56

    Steel or Alloy no issue.

    Steel or Alloy no issue. Spreading 2.5mm over 43cm of seat stay adds a bit of tension.

    No experience of how carbon would react or the tolerances involved so cant advise.

    January 24, 2021 at 6:54 pm #975393
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    spen

    I had the same issue on my

    I had the same issue on my 1989 Muddy Fox Courier Comp (still going strong).  I simply spread the stays apart and shouldered the wider hub in hoping it would eventually take and the stays would stay at 135. It never did, very springy steel that tange chromoly.  Eventually I got a wheel from Spa Cycles with a 26″ rim built on a Tiagra hub.  The new wheel is definately the better arrangement.

    The main issue with using a 135 hub could be with frame material. Steel will flex that much but Aluminium might be a bit more difficult, can’t remeber seeing anyone recommending cold setting ann aly frame, and I couldn’t voice an opinion on carbon fibre.  Maybe try your LBC and see if they could knock up the wheel you need.

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