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Disc brake alignment

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  • April 15, 2020 at 4:02 pm #30629
    Alpine Scrumper

    Noticed that the rotor on my front wheel is sitting next to the outer brake pad rather than in the centre. The pistons are where they should be, nice and flush. Before I unbolt the caliper to move it slightly so the rotor is centred, is there anything I’ve missed?
    The rotor is true and the wheel is def in properly, I’ve double checked. Just put new brake pads in and I want them to wear evenly and perform to their best.
    Thanks

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Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
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  • April 21, 2020 at 11:50 am #957739
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    fukawitribe

    Durianrider1 wrote:

    Durianrider1 wrote:
    So you spend way more on pads and rotors longterm. 

    Bollocks.

    April 20, 2020 at 11:59 am #957737
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    Liam Cahill

    I feel like I’ve had

    I feel like I’ve had “lockdown boredom” for years now

    April 19, 2020 at 8:38 am #957735
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    Alpine Scrumper

    Took the advice of
    Took the advice of @panslanepaul and it took little time at all to tweak. Up and running like new

    April 19, 2020 at 8:25 am #957733
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    TheBillder

    I was doing just this as you
    I was doing just this as you were typing. Whilst the Spyres don’t feel as nice as the few hydraulic brakes I’ve tried on borrowed bikes, the set up is so, so easy (once you’ve found the adjustment screws and your 3 mm Allen key). It’s a really good piece of simple design.

    April 18, 2020 at 10:21 am #957731
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    Durianrider1

    WELCOME TO HYDRO ROAD DISCS!

    WELCOME TO HYDRO ROAD DISCS! XD

    That is why I run cable discs on my high end gravel bike. Im over the faff or road hydro. That is why  (in private) 100% of world tour mechanics HATE road disc because of the extra faff and issues they have compared to rim brakes.

    I use TRP Spyre SLC with compressionless housing. You can dial them in PERFECT in seconds as you can adjust both piston independently. With hydro you get sticking pistons and leaking seals. You can run the pads right down nor the rotors like you can with cable disc. So you spend way more on pads and rotors longterm. 

    April 16, 2020 at 8:18 am #957729
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    Panslanepaul

    Slacken the caliper bolts,

    Slacken the caliper bolts, hold the brake on tight, re-tighten the caliper bolts, release the brake. Almost takes longer to type than to carry out. I have to do this front and rear when swapping wheels and it really takes no time at all.

    April 15, 2020 at 9:28 pm #957727
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    hawkinspeter

    Double check that the thru

    Double check that the thru-axle is properly tightened etc. and then go for re-aligning the caliper. It’s easy to do, but can be fiddly to get the caliper just right if it moves when tightening the bolts. Probably a ten minute job.

    April 15, 2020 at 8:42 pm #957725
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    crazy-legs

    What brakes are they? If they

    What brakes are they? If they’re hydraulic, they should be self centre-ing unless one of the pistons is seized or sticky.

    If they’re cable, some types of cable brake only pull one half of the caliper, it relies on a bit of flex in the whole system to push the rotor into the other pad.

    If the former, depending on the brake you might find it needs a complete overhaul with new seals around the piston. Or, if it’s just been knocked a bit you might just need to loosne the bolt, pull the brake hard on to centre the caliper and retighten.

    April 15, 2020 at 4:09 pm #957723
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    Miller

    I’d only bother doing

    I’d only bother doing anything if the rotor is rubbing on a pad. If it’s quiet, leave it be. You could always take the pads out and turn them round at some point.

    But maybe you’re lockdown bored and need something to do in which case go for it.

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