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CXR94Di2.
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April 7, 2019 at 7:32 pm #29517
IanEdward
Brilliant ride today on my adapted Superfly 29er, classic ‘gravel’ terrain, exploring coastal landrover tracks, cycle paths, canal towpaths, farm tracks, even some proper CX along the verge of a field.
Bike felt brilliant, lightweight CX tyres and latex tubes felt fast but also invincible on stoney tracks, and 100mm suspension forks took the edge off bigger puddles etc. Bike basically galloped everywhere and made me feel like some Flandrian hero (at 25km/h average, lol!).
The only fly in the ointment was the disc brakes. New Shimano Deores on XT rotors, with resin pads. Painstakingly bedded in and working perfectly in the dry. Problem is with the sort of riding I was doing, in constant rain, was that the brakes rarely got used, and never got hot, certainly never dried out. Result? Squeeling and howling every time I tried to slow down slightly for dog walkers/narrow sections etc. Must have almost given at least three people heart attacks along the way.
And for what? A marginal increase in power which seemed slightly redundant on ‘gravel’ terrain.
I wouldn’t mind so much but my old winter commuter with posh mini-vs and decent pads brakes about 95% as well with none of the noise. In fact, because there’s no squeeling I can brake harder without deafening myself or others.
Anyone else in the same boat? Feels like if manufacturers had bothered speccing bikes with decent rim brakes in the first place thete wouldn’t be this mass migration to discs, and we’d all be enjoying lighter, cheaper bikes with only very slightly worse braking than we currently have.
Anyway, rant over, will just persevere trying to convert my rim braked singlespeed commuter into my perfect gravel bike…
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CXR94Di2
IanEdward wrote:
IanEdward wrote:I use the cheaper open cut out discs which are a few quid a pair.Which ones? I’ve run various rotors including the Magura Storm SL which are more cut-out than rotor! Admittedly that was with different brakes (same bike though), but they didn’t do much for the noise.
Still tempted to try sintered pads as I remember them being relatively quiet in the wet on my mountainbike, but I tried sintered pads in some SRAM brakes recently and they were awful, squeeled in the wet AND in the dry!
Also worried about using sintered pads on a rotor that has already been bedded in with resin pads…
Ive had good success with these. https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-one-piece-stainless-disc-rotor-160mm/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=5360597829&kpid=5360597829&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping+-+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mckv|sGqMU42pR_dm|mcrid|295292317327|mkw||mmt||mrd|5360597829uk|mslid||&mkwid=sGqMU42pR_dm&pcrid=295292317327&prd=5360597829uk&pgrid=58852352866&ptaid=pla-521629078002&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwODlBRDuARIsAMy_28XW6mJioZtt5e7GV0G0zM1SMuv_ej8m_UGWmDdFI5OS4LEHp9x8gZYaAlP7EALw_wcB
It takes a few times braking with new pads to bed into rotors. I go through a set of pads in a week touring mountains. I put on a new set before a tour and it takes one mountain descent to bed in new pads
IanEdward
I use the cheaper open cut
I use the cheaper open cut out discs which are a few quid a pair.Which ones? I’ve run various rotors including the Magura Storm SL which are more cut-out than rotor! Admittedly that was with different brakes (same bike though), but they didn’t do much for the noise.
Still tempted to try sintered pads as I remember them being relatively quiet in the wet on my mountainbike, but I tried sintered pads in some SRAM brakes recently and they were awful, squeeled in the wet AND in the dry!
Also worried about using sintered pads on a rotor that has already been bedded in with resin pads…
CXR94Di2
I use the cheaper open cut
I use the cheaper open cut out discs which are a few quid a pair. These will almost stop squealing from shimano hydraulic brakes.
I think its the combo of gas build up with mostly solid rotors and ceramic pistons. I dont get it with any other combination of rotors or calipers.
I have Hope 4 pots on my road bike and same rotors that I had with Shimano calipers. This setup doesnt squeal. Then I have on my shopper SS, Shimano calipers with cheap rotors and again they dont squeal.
A rider I did a tourwith had the latest black ‘ice tech’ on his expensive Dura Ace bike. Squealed like mad dry or wet.
matthewn5
My rim brake carbon wheels
My rim brake carbon wheels howl when I brake hard. At least the pedestrians hear through their headphones!
IanEdward
Quote:
As for bedding in, what a load of crap that method is, I’ve never done it and never had any problems.Agreed, I’ve never gone to those lengths before either, was just experimenting to see if ‘perfect’ bedding in as per manufacturer’s instructions would make a difference. Obviously not.
Although someone mentioned above that resin brake pads wearing out quicker, apparently this is related to bedding in, i.e. un-bedded pads can be soft so if you use them in wet/gritty conditions straight away they’ll disappear quicker.
carbon rimsYeah, I totally get running discs with carbon rims, although if I was spending carbon rim money it would be on a Sunday best bike that would be unlikely to see early spring Scottish gravel conditions!
Anonymous
I have a set of Shimano XT
I have a set of Shimano XT disc brakes on my 9 year old MTB. In all that time all I have done is replaced the pads a few times. I have never had to bleed them, adjust the caliper or anything else – just replaced pads when needed. Yes, they can make a bit of noise in the wet but so did my v-brakes and certainly anyone I’ve ever rode with who has carbon rims can’t point the finger when it comes to noise – and that’s in the dry!
I have a GT grade with SRAM Rival disc brakes which is almost three years old. Same experience (so far) as my MTB. Easy setup, great performance wet or dry and a bit of noise when wet… no bleeding, no caliper adjustment, no brake rub – just pad replacement. As for bedding in, what a load of crap that method is, I’ve never done it and never had any problems.
IanEdward
Lol, I had to leave this
Lol, I had to leave this thread alone, I don’t know why I keep starting threads about disc brakes because I just get myself irritated by them!
I think I’m just getting annoyed as I keep hearing about these mythical brake set ups that work perfectly and silently in wet and dry, but no amount of experimenting or money on new brake set ups seems to get me any closer.
I’ve faced the mounts and set the brakes up using a Hayes alignment gauge which gives a perfectly equal gap between pads and rotor on both sides. Not much more I can do there. Will take the pads out and give them a wee toasting over the gas hob to burn of any contaminents but really don’t believe it’s necessary, they’ve barely been used on the roads and I run a strict ‘no-aerosol’ policy in my garage (slightly tongue in cheek comment..).
I bedded each rotor/pad combo in on the front wheel on a long gradual tarmac descent, on a dry day, never once coming to a complete halt, performing at least 20 hard almost-stops. I really was that anal about it.
I do agree with longasballs though, I don’t think the complete market saturation is all to do with the supposed benefits, there must be something in it for the manufacturers, possibly just the mark-up on new hydraulic discs improving their profit margins… The tyre clearance argument is a non-issue, I run 38mm tyres and mudguards under a set of mini-Vs with clearance to spare, so I don’t buy the argument that wide tyres NEED discs.
Will just wait patiently and hope for a minor resurgance in rim brakes, similar to threaded BBs making a gradual return after a few years of press-fit ubiquity. Or hope I win the lottery and get something really nice and custom (posts Heretic pic again…)

longassballs
BehindTheBikesheds wrote:
BehindTheBikesheds wrote:Simplifying frame design, lol, it was simple before, have you any idea how much more complex a disc brake frame is compared to a rim brake, you’ve seen all the extra add on bits that are needed so that you can fit discs right, all the additional ‘beefing up’ and huge changes in frame design?
The excuse about carbon clinchers melting was feeble, a small number of people, mainly people who have no business descending in the mountains at high speed on carbon clinchers, and that was back in the early days with poorer compounds, Corima carbons have been fantastic for over a decade amngst others. Maybe those wannabe’s should learn how to ride descents or simply not cane it when there’s no need to or just bring along alu rims if they aren’t that great on descents and are worried about their cheap carbn rims!
I’m a mini V user on my tourer/audax/winter racer, it’ll take up to 55mm tyres, easily 45s with guards, Specialized made in my opinion the ultimate do it all bike in the Sirrus Pro Ltd, full carbon, room for 40mm tyres plus rack and guard mounts, std 68mm BSC BB and V pegs. Currently running it with Avid 7s but have TRP mini Vs if I decide to convert to drops.
Most of the offerings for gravel/adventure are fat bloaters, even the high end full carbon jobs are heavier than my Sirrus, all are disc brake offerings so for me none are of interest. If Tom Pidcock can win a Worlds junior cyclocross on cantilevers then it’s good enough for the rest of us!
For a benefit to a very, very small number of people in a very small fraction of situations were a well set up disc brake will do better than a rim brake, it’s just not worth the extra cost/weight and numerous downsides that most disc brake users experience.
I can’t disagree with most of what you write, even when it contradicts my previous post. I realise I’m only parroting all the industry lines.‘Simplified frame design’ was the wrong choice of words, hands up. I realise there has had to be massive strengthening to manage forces around and due to the calipers that I am sure was really complicated to design. Simplified and cleaner shapes with less junctions better? Due to the industry push, you can only conclude that when road bike disc brake design & manufacture matures the frames will be cheaper to produce. Same with wheels. Otherwise, what’s your reason why the industry is totally abandoning rim brakes?
Oh and when Pidcock won worlds everyone else was on canti’s too – you know that!
Like it or not within a couple of years you’re not gonna have much of a choice If you want a new bike
Xenophon2
I don’t have a stack of
I don’t have a stack of studies to back any of the following, just my own admittedly anecdotal experience and a quantum of what I consider to be common sense.
I’ve ridden bikes with rim brakes on wheel sizes of 349-35 to 700C, alu rims, carbon rims and some alu rims that had a coating of tungsten carbide to improve braking performance. Road and gravel riding, no MTB stuff. When dry, rim brakes were ok and with a good set of calipers, levers and pads (Koolstop, Swissstop blue), I’d say that they were on par with my present disc brake setup. In the rain performance degraded from more or less acceptable to downright scary (on the 349-35 alu rims) when riding at any speed over 18 mph. None of them even came close to my present SRAM Force 1 hydraulic disc setup in terms of performance. But, yeah, the discs squeal sometimes (the worst hollerers were koolstop salmon pads on the tungsten carbide coated alu rims though). I guess it’s the price of better performance and tough cookies if I occasionally wake someone when I need to give priority to a car that pops up when I’m cycling to work at 5:30 in the rain.
I commute every day, don’t live in the sahara. Those touted benefits of lighter and more aero rim brakes over disc brakes may hold true for professionals but those guys a) don’t brake nearly as much as amateur riders simply because they have much better technique from spending many hours in the saddle b) have very low body fat and are in prime condition c) accept extra risk in return for cash and d) have very high quality equipment and don’t need to pay for new Zipp or Meilenstein carbon rims that need replacing on a regular basis due to wear.
For the average plod like me who commutes 20 miles a day and rides on average 80 miles every weekend, I seriously doubt rim brakes would objectively be superior.
hawkinspeter
@BTBS – I get your point
@BTBS – I get your point about cycling to the conditions. The issue I have with rim brakes is when you suddenly need to stop and if the rims are wet, it’ll take about one revolution before the brakes start working. With discs – I can cycle normally and if I suddenly have to brake, then at least they’ll start working straight away. To be fair, I’ve never had a crash due to rim brakes, but I’ve had several moments of terror as I grab a handful of brake and it does nothing for a second or so.
The problem with traffic is that you can go at a speed that allows you to stop in the distance that you can see is clear, but some drivers do dumb things and pull out without looking, turn without indicating etc. Yes, you can ride even slower to allow for the unexpected, but I’d rather have confidence in my brakes and travel at a more reasonable speed. The other thing I’ve noticed about disc brakes is that they seem to be a lot easier to control e.g. if I hit both brakes and the rear wheel starts to lose grip, it’s a lot easier to release it and not lose control.
Ultimately, I don’t think people will necessarily take more risks riding with disc brakes as the whole tyre-traction issue is the limiting factor and certainly commuters (like me) don’t want to take it to the limit.
My previous bike has rim brakes (really crap long reach ones that I ended up upgrading) and I keep thinking that I should use it as a winter bike, but the difference between that and disc brakes on my current bike just means that the older one sits around unused (and sad).
Anonymous
hawkinspeter wrote:@BTBS – I just did a quick search on performance difference between rim and disc brakes and found GCN’s testing that concluded that rim brakes are indeed faster. (Summary here: https://www.honeybikes.com/blog/2018/3/25/disc-brake-vs-rim-brake-performance-on-road-bikes)However, for me the most important difference between rims and discs is the wet weather performance. In traffic I really like my brakes to start slowing me down as soon as I activate them and I’ve found that rim brakes make me a lot more nervous in the wet (I have to ride slower in case cars pull out on me etc). Disc brakes feel a lot nicer to use (just a finger will do with complete control) but it’s definitely the reliability factor for me.
Given the choice, I’d go for hydraulic discs every time. (I’ve clearly fallen for the capitalist propaganda)
I’ve never not had enough braking in the wet, one adapts to the conditions no matter what you use, the pros have managed on carbon rims in the wet, they’ve managed with far flexier stirrups/calipers and worse pad compunds too. The restricting factor is the tyres and a persons ability to ride to the conditions, has been for a very long time, more so in the wet.
I’m probably not far off 200,000 miles over 35 years of being on the road, not a massive number compared to some but a decent amount, I started off with chrome steel rims as a teenager, had a few self induced offs along the way but none down to braking efficiency or lack of power and non of the motorist caused incidents would more powerful brakes have helped either.
I’ve said elsewhere that having more powerful brakes simply induces you to take greater risks, to go in deeper/faster on approach, you cut down thinking time should the worst occur. For me there’s too many downsides to discs for a tiny amount of improvement in braking in wet conditions when really you should be going at a speed that gives you the distance to stop no matter what brakes you have.
Similar to my first race bike, my first car had drum brakes all round, 12″ wheels with probably some horrible tyres, somehow never managed to crash it, nor run someone over. We’ve got to a point were the next step has taken us to a point that serves no real purpose for road bikes, even adventure/gravel bikes, has increased bulk, weight, increased ugliness IMO but also has the unintended consequence of reducing thinking time and coplacency particularly in emergencies because one becomes accustomed to the apparent power. Similar thing with motors when disc brakes and ABS became common place, stopping distance restricted by tyres and people still crashed at the same rate because they kept braking later and from higher speeds.
Each to their own but for road bikes in any guise discs are more hassle then they’re worth at any level from pootler to pro.
Russell Orgazoid
IanEdward wrote:MetathesiaphobiaNope, but kudos for googling a clever word to be dismissive with
Bed them in properly, quick clean now & again, and they are fine.The usual advice, but they’re as well bedded in and as well looked after as a set of brakes could hope for. Anyway, I thought disc brakes were supposed to be low maintenance?
Low maintenance, not no maintenance.
Nick T
Yep, disc brakes on bicycles
Yep, disc brakes on bicycles are a nonsense
fukawitribe
hawkinspeter wrote:fukawitribe wrote:I think a lot of the point is that speed isn’t really the be-all and end-all from the GCN videos – and that article wasn’t written by them. The GCN video is remarkably even-handed and interesting, especially in the conclusions and discussion about what could be done more or better.I didn’t watch the video, just read that summary. I’ll give the video a go later on when it’s convenient to use headphones (I much prefer reading articles than watching a video). But yeah, most people buying disc brakes aren’t concerned about a few seconds difference in performance.
Absolutely, worth watching the video too I reckon, there’s a lot of important points missed by the article (plus dubious quoting…)
Edit : I owe the article writers an apology, they didn’t halve the descent time – that was my mis-reading of their discussion about compensating for carbon rims – the bent of the article was still mis-leading even without that IMO.
EddyBerckx
All this marketing bollocks
All this marketing bollocks just pisses me off!!!
My hobby horse with wooden wheels is fine thank you very much!!! I won’t fall for this capialist scam!!!! 😉
ps. Hope you get it fixed ok, squealing brakes are horrible, I’ve had 4 disc brake bikes over the years and one of them did squeal until I changed the pads and bedded it in properly for the first time. That was a TRP semi hydro jobbie, not a patch on my shimano ultegra hydraulic brakes (there really is a noticeable difference).
No idea about your mtb brakes, you might get more help on a specific mtb forum?
And as for maintanaince…once set up, they (full hydro disc brakes) should be less maintanaince than most rim brakes on the market. You change the pads every few thousand miles and thats literally it. No faffing trying to line up and toe in new pads…adjusting them when they wear down or get knocked. And lets not forget, rim brakes can also make a horrible squealing noise in the wet…I know this from uncomfortable experience 🙂
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