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March 10, 2019 at 11:04 am #29432
Kieran0885
Hi there. This is probably a common question people are tired of answering. I’ve been cycling for 18months or so now and have decided it’s time to upgrade. Now I can’t afford a new bike of £1000 or so I would want to spend so I’m thinking about upgrading my components. My bike is a carrera virtuoso bought back in 2017 with Claris r2000 as standard. Would it be worth while upgrading to tiagra? Would it fit my standard where. I’ve heard Shimano hubs take 8/9/10 speed cassettes. Or will I need new wheels as well. I plan on getting new wheels in future but can’t afford to get a new groupset and wheels together. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
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thelawnet wrote:You wouldn’t upgrade that bike. Tiagra is not that much better. Big waste of money
Things to do with a bike like that:
Different tyres as per your riding requirements
Lower gears if you struggle up the hills
Maintenance (new cables, chain, brake pads, etc as needed)
All this, better tyres and getting your tyre pressures correct should be one of your first ports of call as they can make a huge difference in effort needed.
Making sure hub bearing are adjusted so they aren’t causing undue friction, also making sure brake pads aren’t rubbing which also adds to extra effort (and more rim wear), unless your wheels are badly worn I would save your pennies towards other things/newer bike in the future.
If you do need lower gears, a cassette with a 30 or even 32T large sprocket should in theory slot right in without having to change your rear derailleur, screwing in the B screw should enable the upper pulley to clear the cassette teeth. If you haven’t changed your chain and you’re getting a new cassette and your chainrings aren’t worn, maybe consider a new chain.
Consumables aren’t going to increase performance/make the effort in your legs less as such but are good things to check so that gear changes and brakes are working efficiently.
Another ‘upgrade’ is to think about your body position on the bike and also clothing, flappy stuff and a more upright body position does take more effort to push through the air, these can be a very cheap, if not free ‘upgrade’.
Making the best and getting the most out of what you have on a very tight budget can be more rewarding than simply buying the things that won’t gain you much compared to cost.
The upgrades offered up such as Hunt wheels may well be nice but they are going to be at least 25% of your £1000 bike that you can’t afford, if you are going to buy wheels then shop around, low spoke count wheels can be fine but not necessarily good for you, also you can often find mint/lightly used condition older wheels of good quality on fleabay often for peanuts.
I bought as singles a front Open Pro ceramic on Dura Ace 7700 for £50 that was barely used and I bought an Open pro CD on Dura Ace 7700 for £54 that was also light use. Things like the older Mavic ksyrium SSC wheels come up from time to time (even the Equipe’s are nice), bombproof low spoke count wheels and the freehubs are steel so don’t get as mushed as the alloy freehub bodies.
Simon E
I wish I’d known that sooner, I might still be alive!SpikeBike wrote:If you are going to replace your wheels then defo replace your brakes for at least 105. Cost you about £60 for the pair and will save your life.Fitting 105 brake calipers is not a guaranteed remedy for poor braking performance or rider inattentiveness. Cheaper and much easier is to fit better shoes and pads such as Shimano R55C3 / R55C4 (used in 105, Ultegra & Dura-Ace) or Kool Stop to begin with. Both are about £12 per wheel. The cheaper groupsets use one-piece blocks and they are the first thing I’d change.
AfterPeak
If you are going to replace
If you are going to replace your wheels then defo replace your brakes for at least 105. Cost you about £60 for the pair and will save your life.
PRSboy
To take a different spin, the
To take a different spin, the best ‘upgrade’ I ever bought was a bike computer and a heart rate monitor. It introduced me to the world of structured ‘zone’ training and riding which has made a massive difference to my cycling.
But to add to the above, second hand is a great way to go… my brother got a lovely carbon Ribble with Campag Athena 11s for not alot more than £300, but clearly you need to be diligent on the seller.
Any one got experience of a
Any one got experience of a website called bike soup? Been looking at that. Some nice bikes on there.
Daveyraveygravey
If you’re patient you can
If you’re patient you can find a Spesh Allez/Giant Defy/Trek something or other on Ebay, maybe 2 years old for your £300. That’s where I’d put my 300 quidlongassballs
thelawnet hit the nail on the
thelawnet hit the nail on the head.For what my opinion is worth like a few others I would save your money for a different bike. Much cheaper and better value for money, even in the medium-term.
Also do you have the correct tools or will you be paying for a mechanic? If the later that’s another saving with another bike
thelawnet
You wouldn’t upgrade that
You wouldn’t upgrade that bike. Tiagra is not that much better. Big waste of money
Things to do with a bike like that:
Different tyres as per your riding requirements
Lower gears if you struggle up the hills
Maintenance (new cables, chain, brake pads, etc as needed)
Thanks for all comments.
Thanks for all comments. Budget is around £300. Seen tiagra has dropped just under at mo. Already got good tyres on. I wanted to invest in wheels but wasn’t sure if I could use my 8 speed cassette as most wheels specify 10/11 speed. But then, (catch 22) wasn’t sure if a 10 speed cassette would go on my wheels. Which would improve my ride most?
OP, what is your budget?
OP, what is your budget? Apart from not having a grand to spend on a new bike, how much have you got?
Changing from Claris to Tiagra will cost what, £300?
Most experts say the best bang for buck upgrade is wheels, if you really want to change something look at getting some wheels in a sale or on special somewhere.
Like Simon E says, I would wait until you have more money, and get a whole bike in a sale, or even off Ebay. There are loads of bikes for sale bought by people who want to take advantage of cycle to work schemes, or have seen all the other folk whizzing around on a Sunday and want to give it a go; the bikes get ridden 2 or 3 times then left in a shed or garage, in nearly new condition.
Simon E
The latest iteration of
The latest iteration of Claris is rather better than its predecessors. The difference to weight etc of upgrading will be undetectable while the dent in your wallet will be significant. All modern wheels are compatible with 8-11 speed cassettes though some older designs may not work with 11 speed (the hub width for 8, 9 & 10 speed is the same).
Unless you’ve worn out your drivetrain I would put the money to one side and buy a discounted new bike later in the season. You’ll get a better and lighter frame and a decent groupset without spending a fortune.
In the meantime buy some nice tyres.
Welsh boy
I would also recommend
I would also recommend tubeless but my experience is that Hutchinson Fusion 5 11 Storm tyres are much better than Schwalbe tyres, they roll as nicely but are less prone to damage.
But. And it is a big But. By the time you buy wheels, tyres, sealant, valves and possibly rim tape converting to tubeless is expensive. Add to that the cost of a new group set and you are suddenly looking at an expensive upgrade. Have you thought about something like the Ribble R872 Disc bike on interest free credit?
Have a look at their website and bike builder (i cant paste a link here, this site wont allow it) or other on line retailers may also be doing interest free options.
My usual advice is to buy with your heart, buy the bike you like (assuming of course that it fits you) and that you will want to ride, a “bargin” which sits in the shed is not a good buy, something that you want to get out on and ride is a wonderful purchase.
CXR94Di2
Your bike spec
Your bike spec
Weight 11.2kg
Gear Shifters Shimano Claris / 2×8 speed
Rear Mech Shimano Claris / 8 speed
Front Mech Shimano Claris / 2 speed
Chainset Prowheel / 50/34T
Cassette / Freewheel Shimano HG50 / 11-28T / 8 speedIf you change the wheels the weight will drop to something like 10.5kg.
Struggling on hills ?
Changing the groupset and cassette to 48/32 or 46/30 and 11-32 cassette will make a huge difference in the rides for hills.
The bike has a cartridge bottom bracket(tapered cranks), so this will need swapping at the same time as the chainset-not an issue, just be aware
A decent set of tyres Schwalbe/Continental will make the bike feel nice, especially if you convert to tubeless-wait for the naysayers.
EddyBerckx
I’d upgrade wheels/tyres
I’d upgrade wheels/tyres before anything else, it’ll make the most difference by far.
Something like Campagnolo Zondas or Hunt wheels will lighten your bike and make it feel more ‘zippy’. Match with a pair of conti GP4000’s or 5000’s too!
mike the bike
Tiagra is great; I used it for all-weather commuting for years and it’s as near faultless as makes no difference. It may be a little heavier than 105 but you won’t notice that until you pin a number on your back.
If the wheels are more important to you Shimano hubs are super. Long lasting and easily serviced they usually give sterling service. Just check before you pay your money that the hubs are suitable for your groupset. As you say, some will take several different cassette standards, often using spacers. If there’s a wheel builder local to you it may pay to ask for a quote, some will beat the big store prices. And their advice comes free, which is a pleasant change.
Best of luck.
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