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Complete newbie in need of tips/advice Cyclocross vs Road

  • This topic has 32 replies, 23 voices, and was last updated 9 years ago by TypeVertigo.
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  • May 12, 2017 at 4:49 pm #27109
    Bingo-Pajama

    Hi all

    I’m a complete newbie having only rode mountain bikes on trail for years.  I haven’t rode in a long time as a year and a half ago I had a pretty decent knee injury and I’m only now at the tail end of the physio.  However just as I begin prepping to get back on two wheels some **expletives redacted** broke into my garage and stole my beloved Stumpy.   As a result I thought now was as good a time as ever to get out on the road (as this meets my commuting / physio needs better), I’m also 40 and not in need of any new mtb injuries!

    I think i’d still like to do some trail even if it’s fairly calm stuff but I also really want to be able to get out with a friend who is an out and out road bike man. Will I (current fitness/knee aside) struggle to keep a decent pace on a cyclocross.  I’m also worried that I’ll get the bug for road and wish I hadn’t gone full cyclo.  However, I have got to come to terms with a) drop bars, b) the insanity of cleats, and c) sphincter imploding bald/narrow tyres – hence my lean towards cross!

    Final factor is that as it’s an insurance replacement I’m limited to a specific company albeit with a decent enough selection for my needs and budget.  Test riding my shortlists will be time consuming and tricky as it will be ordered online so I’ve got to somehow track these down without being identified as a timewaster (which technically i will be!)

    Top end is £1300 but I don’t know how much to take off for the necessary gear. I know there’s no one size fits all answer but if any of these are absolute no-no’s it’ll help me with getting out and finding them to test.

    Options based on top end are:

    Road – Cube SL Road Sl 2017 –  really like the look and spec but cannot find any info on this one. it’s also flat bar which appeals. Orbea Avant M40 – again no real reviews (flat bar). Giant TCR Advanced 3 – this has already been recommended and gives me £100 change to contribute towards pedals . Merida Ride 500.

    Cyclocross – Cannndale CAADX 105 – I really like this for all reasons, good spec, gives me change and is a nice cross.  Cube Cross Race Pro. Giant TCX SLR 2.

    Or is there a recommended bike for around £1000 leavingme with enough money to buy the rest of the gear?

    Any help is greatly appreciated as I’m going around in circles and this is before I even sit on one of these devil’s machines 🙂

    Cheers

    Ryan

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  • May 18, 2017 at 12:52 pm #893071
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    TypeVertigo
    bendertherobot wrote:
    Juin Tech R1 are very good for the price.

    They’re also being sold re-branded as the Yokozuna Motoko calipers.

    In recent times I’ve seen Juin Tech make and sell Flat-Mount versions of these brakes. Unsurprisingly, they’re called the “F1.” A little pricier than the R1 but close enough.

    https://scontent-sit4-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17021554_1310100712408513_2255099676894490939_n.jpg?oh=d355ef40b887bf6c011d0449d7591e0e&oe=59BDA806

    May 17, 2017 at 12:49 pm #893069
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    bendertherobot

    Juin Tech R1 are very good

    Juin Tech R1 are very good for the price.

    May 17, 2017 at 12:48 pm #893067
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    PeterCee

    Promax Render R’s are abysmal

    Promax Render R’s are abysmal (they came on my Synapse).

    Easily remedied by swapping to  TRP Hy Rd which are pretty damn good and close in performance to full hydraulics – but at a cost of £200….

     

     

    May 17, 2017 at 12:15 pm #893065
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    Vehlin

    I’ve got a CAADX 105 and

    I’ve got a CAADX 105 and generally love it’s do everything nature, however as others have said the Promax Render R’s it comes with are awful. I honestly wish I’d spent the extra and got the Ultegra version that came with hydros. 

    I’m currently in the process of upgrading them to RS-685 shifters and R785 calipers. The old calipers are going in the bin, I wouldn’t put them on a Matchbox car.

    May 17, 2017 at 10:58 am #893063
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    TypeVertigo

    kil0ran wrote:

    kil0ran wrote:
    CX is a compromise but the whole reason I have it is for disc brakes and clearance for big tyres. They’re also cheaper than buying a comparable gravel/adventure bike (because fashion/marketing).

    Indeed.

    In Giant’s case, they actually released a “gravel” version of the TCX last year.

    https://www.bikerumor.com/2016/06/20/giant-releases-new-gravel-bike-for-2017/

    Frame-wise, it’s absolutely no different from the regular model…which is testament to how versatile the original frame is in terms of swallowing wide tires. The only real difference is in its stock component and tire package.

    I suspect the same is applicable for most cross bikes too, save for machines like the GT Grade which I recall is limited to 35 mm rubber.

    May 16, 2017 at 11:34 am #893061
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    kil0ran

    I run a CX bike for a mixed

    I run a CX bike for a mixed gravel/cycle path/road commute and I’m pretty happy with the flexibility it offers, particularly if you factor in a spare set of wheels. My route varies with distance so if I’m fancying a longer gravel ride I’ll run 33mm CX tyres or swap to 32mm Gatorskins if its mostly road.

    CX bike is likely to be a bit more pointy than a road bike and also have more bottom bracket clearance. Compared to my old road bike I feel I’m a bit perched on top of the bike rather than part of it but this helps with handling. 

    CX is a compromise but the whole reason I have it is for disc brakes and clearance for big tyres. They’re also cheaper than buying a comparable gravel/adventure bike (because fashion/marketing).

    Often the case that CX bikes come with crosstops (extra brake levers fitted to the tops of the handlebars – closer to the stem than they would be on a flat bar bike). They can really help with transitioning from flats to drops and are great for commuting. Downside is they tend not to be available for hydro setups (Hope do some I think?) and do affect lever feel and braking performance a bit.

    I looked at the CAADX and almost bought one but it wasn’t clear if I could put mudguards on it and was put off by the pressfit BB. Current bike is a Merida Cyclocross 500 (similar spec to the Ride 500 but with discs). All I’d change on it is the chainset – for the type of rides I do an ultra-compact would make more sense.

    May 16, 2017 at 11:12 am #893059
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    surly_by_name
    kevvjj wrote:
    SRAM Rival HRD (hydro) discs work brilliantly on my GT grade which cost under £900.

    Fair play, if you can get a bike with hydros for that price.

    May 16, 2017 at 8:31 am #893057
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    Johnnyvee

    Bingo-pajama, two of my
    Bingo-pajama, two of my riding buddies have the bike that Peted 76 linked to – the cheaper one. I did a 70 mile sportive with on of them on that bike and the other went out at the weekend bike packing from what I can tell.
    Shows how versatile they can be and if you look around there are ways and means to get discounts at Halfords it’s just that their building leaves you wanting though as Cycle Republic are part of them you can click and collect to one of them to build test ride and possibly buy
    If there’s one near you.

    May 16, 2017 at 7:23 am #893055
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    TypeVertigo

    Morat wrote:

    Morat wrote:
    CAADX in particular is noted for having poor brakes – but they’re not the most expensive things to change if necessary (about £30 a wheel).

    Yeah, those Promax Render R calipers are pretty much universally panned.

    There’s also YouTube footage around of CAADX seat stays flexing pretty badly upon rear brake actuation, indicating that something’s not as solid as it should be. Not sure if it’s still an issue.

    May 15, 2017 at 4:57 pm #893053
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    Anonymous
    surly_by_name wrote:
    If you want to ride with your mate, and your mate rides road, buy a road bike. I think you have to ask yourself how often (if at all) in practice you will get time to change wheels/go for a ride off road.

    Cross bikes are fun. For racing cross. If you’ve ridden mountain bikes for long enough, you’ll find the off road performance of a cross bike a bit underwhelming. Also, at £1,300 you will struggle to get decent disc brakes (you will find cable discs surprisingly shite compared to hydros you are used to on a MTB) and the idea that you will be able to buy a second wheelset strikes me as challenging at that price.

     

    On a road bike you will never plan to mix road with off-road. That’s the beauty of the CX/gravel/endurance bike, your rides can now be a mixture of both on the ONE ride. Makes for far more interesting riding. I don’t have a second set of wheels (would like one though) and my Continental cyclocross 35mm tyres work perfectly on and off road.

    SRAM Rival HRD (hydro) discs work brilliantly on my GT grade which cost under £900.

    May 15, 2017 at 4:49 pm #893051
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    Morat

    I have Hayes CX cable brakes

    I have Hayes CX cable brakes on one bike and Shimano Hydros (the 105 level-ish ones) on the other. You can sum up the difference by saying that hydros are one-finger braking and the cables are two finger braking – but the cable brakes need more set up and attention.  When they’re on song, the cable brakes are very good and have great feedback. The hydros are always excellent, but don’t panic brake or you’ll just lock up.

    There are some shabby cable disks out there, you should probably read lots of reviews to make sure you’re getting the right ones. CAADX in particular is noted for having poor brakes – but they’re not the most expensive things to change if necessary (about £30 a wheel).

    May 15, 2017 at 4:40 pm #893049
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    peted76

    Not much else to comment

    Not much else to comment apart from I was advised that a CX bike must have hydraulic brakes or the whole expereince will be muted. Couple of options below your budget for consideration:

    £1000 – hydraulic brake CX bike – http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/road-bikes/boardman-cx-team-bike

    £1100 – hydraulic brake CX bike – http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/CBPXXLAAPEX1/planet-x-xla-sram-apex-1-hydraulic-disc-cyclocross-bike

     

    May 15, 2017 at 11:44 am #893047
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    TypeVertigo

    Have had my TCX SLR 2 for

    Have had my TCX SLR 2 for three years and so far it’s been great.

    I have tended more towards the road side of the riding spectrum though, and as such I swapped the 46/36T crank for a 50/34T – it’s just more versatile for my purposes. I also run 28 and 32 mm road-oriented rubber. The great thing about my TCX is it can pretty much do everything I ask of it, even roll through a trail park or go for light loaded touring/commuting.

    Regarding mechanical disc brakes – the TRP Spyres are just about as much brake as I need without the added complexity of hydraulics.

    If you go the CX route it’s a very compelling candidate for a one-bike-to-rule-them-all kind of scenario. You might wish to take on terrain that your Stumpjumper can tackle, though, so a cross bike might not be up to too much gnar.

    May 15, 2017 at 10:29 am #893045
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    surly_by_name

    If you want to ride with your

    If you want to ride with your mate, and your mate rides road, buy a road bike. I think you have to ask yourself how often (if at all) in practice you will get time to change wheels/go for a ride off road.

    Cross bikes are fun. For racing cross. If you’ve ridden mountain bikes for long enough, you’ll find the off road performance of a cross bike a bit underwhelming. Also, at £1,300 you will struggle to get decent disc brakes (you will find cable discs surprisingly shite compared to hydros you are used to on a MTB) and the idea that you will be able to buy a second wheelset strikes me as challenging at that price.

     

    May 15, 2017 at 9:19 am #893043
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    wycombewheeler

    no reason for cx bike to be
    no reason for cx bike to be much slower. GT grade with 30mm tubeless. Just completed Bryan Chapman Memorial audax on it. Would also have no qualms riding on gravel trails.

    slick tyres offer more grip on the road than lumpy ones even in the wet.

    If you go for two sets of wheels and end up with disc brakes, got for the same hubs and rotors so you don’t have to realign the calipers all the time.

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