Wheel Choice – Advice much appreciated

Look at Yoeleo
Look at Yoeleo

I have the Campag Bullet 50

I have the Campag Bullet 50 Ultra Cult version, on my best bike. Bought knowing I’d never be able to justify that expense on wheels again (they were on sale, even so).

Perhaps not quite the lightest, but they are very stiff, roll beautifully and look fantastic on the bike. I wanted carbon wheels, but liked the idea of the alu braking surface.

A friend has the standard ones and really likes them.

Wiggle seem the be the cheapest at the moment, but keep an eye on Ribble for a sale.

Overall, I’ve never regretted buying them, but at some point I may buy a lighter set for hilly rides. My other bike has 2 sets of alu wheels, and the difference in weight is noticable, expecially when pulling away from a junction, as the lighter ones spin up much faster.

Edit

The Ultra ones I’ve got are supposed to be the 2-way Fit tubeless ready ones, but I don’t recall the manual saying anything about it, far less the label. Must remember to check that out and, if so, try it out.

I’d say either the Reynolds
I’d say either the Reynolds (light), or the Campagnolo Bullet (Alu brake surface for the same weight as the Cosign).

For me that would mean the Reynolds but it depends how paranoid you are about braking and how much you expect to be riding in the wet (where Alu brake track will be a big benefit).

farsports very easy

farsports very easy communications :

top end : DTswiss 240s hubs straight pull  ( various combination of rims depth and width)

https://www.wheelsfar.com/road-wheels/clincher/24cm-23mm-width/38mm-x-23mm-u-shape-dt-240s-straight-pull-hub-clincher-wheelset.html

more budget  : 

https://www.wheelsfar.com/road-wheels/clincher/24cm-23mm-width/38mm-x-23mm-u-shape-2016-clincher-wheelset.html

you can ask ceramic bearing for small upgrade cost..

Would agree with earlier

Would agree with earlier comments about the power meter. To be able to moderate your power over a ride is a great asset. If you are riding a 10 mile TT or 100 mile sportive you will be able to judge the ride on the basis your average and current power. Thus able to ensure that there is still gas in the tank for the whole ride. Plus you get a much more accurate view of energy consumed so you can judge better when to feed yourself. They also help in training.

Wheels are an intersting issue. Over the years I have bought and sold around 10 pairs of wheels in search of the perfect all rounder. Weight is only really a big issue if you are doing alot of climbing on the ride. It matters but not that much. What you are left with is how well they cut through the air and how well they transfer power from the you to the ground. So stiffness. Each of the sets of wheels that were sold where lacking on one of the two catagories mentioned and it seemed difficult to get both. It does exist and I found it with a company called Ride full gas. Various depth sections available but they all share a very wide profile 25 to 28mm between the pads. This wide profile provides a great tyre profile with the tyre to braking surface connection being very smooth. This makes the tyre shape more aero but the shape is also amazing for grip and cornering as there is no roll on the tyre. Then there is the stiffness. Boy but they transfer power well. I have the DM 838 wheels which are a few grams heavier than a Duraace C24 but with a much deeper section. They work really well as an all rounder and come supplied with the proper pads. Lovely hubs which are real easy to service. Braking is fine too.

Oh and not to be discounted they look the business.

IME Reynolds are very well
IME Reynolds are very well built and reasonably stiff, which is what will give you that feeling of strong acceleration under power. Ditto campag / fulcrum (though ive only used their alu rimd. I don’t have experience of the other brands. The latest ones are wider and generally a wider wheel will be stiffer.

Light weight is nice, but it sounds like the priority should be aero, stiffness then weight. Especially if you’re doing ironmans. Go for 50-60 mm if you can, 40mm is unlikely to give you all that much of an aero advantage. You learn to cope with winds but you can always swap back to the fulcrums for winter and v windy days.