Running a gravel bike with 2 sets of wheels (gravel and road)

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  • #1150487
    Shades

    I currently have a Genesis Equilibrium (2013) and titanium gravel bike (much higher spec bike; 1×11 GRX; disc brakes).  The Genesis steel frame is showing signs of wear (some corrosion spots) and I was going to to some touching up.  I discussed a respray with the bike mechanic I use and he raised a valid point that I’d be investing in a bike that has a lot of old tech on it (eg rim brakes, 10 speed, QR axles) so only worth it if I really love the bike; it has done all the signature French road climbs.  I’ve reached S-1 with my wife (ie NO MORE BIKES!!) so the choice is to, in the near future, invest in a new steel frame (Genesis would have to go); the other option being to get a 2nd set of wheels for the gravel bike (say 32mm).  The gravel bike currently has Maxxis Ramblers (tubeless; 45mm front and 40mm rear) which are great for mixed terrain rides (gravel and tarmac).  Part of me says, who cares if the gravel tyres are a bit slow on tarmac, but then some decent road wheels/tyres could be really good on the titanium gravel frame.  Not sure about wear on the chain/cassette but perhaps wouldn’t want to have to change the chain each time (for each wheelset).  The Genesis could be set up with some wider tyres and fixed mudguards as a winter bike.  I do some maintenance myself, but may keep the bill down if the gravel frame becomes the only ‘A1’ bike.  Someone suggested 650 wheels for gravel but my preference is mixed gravel/tarmac rides rather than going ‘full gravel’; dig out the MTB for single-track.  Any pros and cons from people with experience?

Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
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  • #1156795
    0
    S.E.

    It worked well for me, until

    It worked well for me, until it didn’t… for some reason after replacing both brakes’ pads I have to adjust the calipers everytime I switch wheels, I never had any issue for more than a year until that point (except for the occasional slightly bent rotor)

    So if your rides often include both road and gravel sections, maybe it would be easier to just buy fast gravel tyres, maybe 40 mm, and just ride!

    Otoh if you don’t expect to ride on mixed terrains, but only good road surfaces one day, and the other mostly gravel with some slippy mud, then 2 set of wheels with different tyres might be better.

    #1156793
    0
    joeegg

    I run two sets of wheels on a
    I run two sets of wheels on a Boardman gravel bike.
    Didn’t want or need a fancy road wheelset so picked up a pair of Fulcrum Racing 5’s on ebay for £50.Set them up with the same disc / cassette size so changing over is easy.

    #1156791
    0
    GravelIsNothingNew

    A gravel race bike with two

    A gravel race bike with two sets of wheels is the ultimate N-1 solution for road x gravel cycling.
    Especially if you have two matching wheelsets / cassettes / brake discs purchased at the same time (to avoid compatability / wear issues).
    I run two matching carbon wheelsets – that have 30mm deep rims, 25mm internal / 32mm external. First set with 32mm road tyres. Second set with 40-45mm gravel tyres.

    I also have a third 650b wheelset with the same specs that I run with 2.1″ mtb tyres for rough trails and off road bike packing. I like 650b x 50+mm tyres more than massive 700c/29ers for gravel bikes because they are lighter and it keeps the frame clearance much closer for road riding (with the road wheel set).

    The current fashion of 700cx2.2 clearance in gravel race bikes shifts the frame geometry too far away from road geometry for a true N-1 groad bike IMO.

    #1156763
    0
    quiff

    This really doesn’t address

    This really doesn’t address the question; I don’t know how suitable this product actually is; and it may not be to your tastes anyway but, re: touching up a bike that has a lot of stories:

    https://velo-orange.com/products/goldfinger-metallic-compound?srsltid=AfmBOoqfnVpfVPgylyVJO0qLd_ucPjngv7jHiMQPlTBDOHFIMjK5qQ2H

    “Every scratch tells a story. Goldfinger, made in the UK, lets you embrace that history instead of hiding it. Inspired by the Japanese art of kintsugi, this metallic compound fills scrapes and scratches with a radiant gold or silver finish, turning ordinary wear into marks of character. Over time, your frame’s patina becomes a record of rides, adventures, and memories—made even more beautiful with a touch of shine.”

    #1156719
    0
    the infamous grouse

    sensible and practical,

    sensible and practical, though my gravel bike is more commonly used for ‘wtf’ road surface types rather than actual dirt. lightbicycle wg55 in the summer and spank spike race 33’s in the winter – winter set also have a dynamo front hub.

    terreno zero on both sets. fast enough on the road,, stable enough on hardpack.

    #1156669
    0
    SecretSam

    Yup, I do just this, summer

    Yup, I do just this, summer and winter tyres, if I wasn’t so tight I’d have rotors on both sets as well as cassettes. Works fine. SRAM 1x 11 speed – handily, my winter bike is the same, so I can swap to road tyres as well! 

    #1156653
    0
    mikewood

    Have you checked the spacer

    Have you checked the spacer behind the cassette? Might not have one when you’d need one for an 11-34 11sp

    #1156635
    0
    matthewn5

    I’ve got a Ridley Kanzo Fast

    I’ve got a Ridley Kanzo Fast and use two sets of wheels for just this reason. It’s running 13 speed Campag Ekar so I have a set of Shamal Carbon, 21mm internal running 34mm Vittoria Corsa N.Ext slicks; the other is Levante, 25 internal and running 38mm Vittoria Terreno Zeros (slick middle and edge lugs). I also have a dynamo front wheel built so with mudgards and lights it makes a simple winter bike. Works well and no problems swapping between them.

    #1156625
    0
    Geoff Ingram

    I have used 10 speed chain

    I have used 10 speed chain with 11speed cassette and vice versa several times, when using different wheelsets and also 10 speed chain with 9 speed  cassette and vice versa, again without problems. Sheldon Brown also says it’s OK. Especially when,  there are largish jumps between pinions, 2 teeth minimum, so the adjacent smaller pinions, even if too close on a cassette with more of them, are small enough to be out of the way. Have found for example that with chain on a 13, if the next one down is a 12, the chain can foul, but if the next one down is 11, there’s clearance as the 11 is lower.

    #1156619
    0
    Oldfatgit

    I run two sets of wheels for
    I run two sets of wheels for my Basso.
    I have identical cassettes installed, and I *thought* the wheels were identical and from the same manufacturer – but alas not.

    As a result, the cassette is in a slightly different position on each wheel, which led to slight misalignment in the centre of the cassette and being unable to get in to the dinner plate gear when using the road wheels.

    This has been overcome somewhat by my LBS [I have neither tools, knowledge or time], and now I only have to adjust the cable tensioner at the mech when I change wheels. An alignment mark ensures that I get it right each time.

    Rotor thickness can be a bit of a problem – but one that’s easily resolved.
    The gravel rotors tend to score more easily – which is hardly surprising due to the abrasive nature of gravel – I don’t *think* I’ve noticed any issues. I always use brake cleaner on Changes to help reduce grit contamination.

    #1156617
    0
    antigee

    Did it for a while when I
    Did it for a while when I ended up doing a series of road sportive style events. Had no issues at all. One wheelset had 11-34 the other 11-36 and had no chain length issues. Also no issues with having to reset disk calipers but may have been lucky. My only concession was upping chain checking to ensure one chain happy on two cassettes.

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