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135mm wheel into 130mm dropouts???

by CX-3
Sun, Jan 24, 2021 10:58
9

I've got a bike with 130mm rear drop outs. I can get a new wheel for it, but onl;y in 135mm spacing. Are there likely to be a ny problems? I'll only be using it on the turbo.

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9 comments

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CX-3 | 3 years ago
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Thanks guys.

Frame is an old steel 531 from Ribble. I thought there wouldn't be a problem. Thanks for confirming that.

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matthewn5 replied to CX-3 | 3 years ago
1 like

Some tourers and trekking bikes are made to 132.5mm spacing, so they can take either qr 'road' wheels (130 mm OLN) or 'touring' wheels (135 mm OLN). Spreading/closing a steel frame that much will not hurt it - see Sheldon Brown's advice if you're worried.

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Tom_77 | 3 years ago
2 likes

Maybe I'm missing something, but isn't 130mm a standard size for a wheel and quite easy to find?

 

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spen replied to Tom_77 | 3 years ago
0 likes

130 is standard on road bikes, 135 on mountain bikes.  130 was standard on mountain bikes when 7 speed blocks were common, as they got more sprockets hub width went to 135.

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David9694 | 3 years ago
0 likes

if and only if it's steel, you should spring it out to 132.5. 
 

that said and I haven't done this myself it looks to me on my Shimano 135 mm wheel that the 5mm extra is mainly made up of a cyclindrical spacer on the NDS  - it does makes me wonder. 
 

I got the wheel because it's supposed to be stronger if the flanges are further apart - makes sense - but they're not, to any noticeable degree.

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Recoveryride | 3 years ago
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While it might work on a steel frame, it almost certainly won't on an alu or carbon one, and is still fraught with risk in the case of steel. Is there a particular reason you need a new wheel? Bit of context here would help!

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Freddy56 | 3 years ago
0 likes

Steel or Alloy no issue. Spreading 2.5mm over 43cm of seat stay adds a bit of tension.

No experience of how carbon would react or the tolerances involved so cant advise.

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Recoveryride replied to Freddy56 | 3 years ago
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Worth pointing out that alu frames, especially older ones, can and do crack (ask anyone who had a scandium frame c.2000, or a 1990s Yeti). While the whole situation is a bit odd and unexplained, I'd think there are surely better options than risking that.

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spen | 3 years ago
1 like

I had the same issue on my 1989 Muddy Fox Courier Comp (still going strong).  I simply spread the stays apart and shouldered the wider hub in hoping it would eventually take and the stays would stay at 135. It never did, very springy steel that tange chromoly.  Eventually I got a wheel from Spa Cycles with a 26" rim built on a Tiagra hub.  The new wheel is definately the better arrangement.

The main issue with using a 135 hub could be with frame material. Steel will flex that much but Aluminium might be a bit more difficult, can't remeber seeing anyone recommending cold setting ann aly frame, and I couldn't voice an opinion on carbon fibre.  Maybe try your LBC and see if they could knock up the wheel you need.

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