A pro race bike might look the same as the one you can buy in the shops, but there are some subtle differences that mark them out

I’ve been to a fair few professional road races over the years, from the Tour de France to Belgian classics, and in that time I've noticed that there are quite a few things you only spot on a pro race bike.

These are a few of those observations, so you know how to spot a pro race bike, or in case you want to emulate the PRO look.

The great thing about cycle sport is that you can (mostly) buy the exact same bike and equipment that any pro uses. In fact, you can buy a better bike if you’re not racing, as you're unhindered by the UCI’s 6.8kg weight limit. But there are a few differences when comparing your shop-bought race bike to an actual pro race bike.

Top tube name sticker 

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You always see a sticker with the name of the pro racer that the bike belongs to on the top tube of the frame. Sometimes it’s accompanied by a country flag or, and I've only seen it a couple of times, a Twitter handle. It makes it easy for spectators and mechanics to know which bike belongs to who when parked up against the team truck of cafe window.

A number plate

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There might be calls for number plates to be required by cycle commuters, but pro racers already ride with a number plate. It's typically attached to the rear brake with a special adapter, but sometimes it's fixed to the seatpost. Along with jersey numbers, it makes it a bit easier to distinguish a rider in a bunch. It’s also useful for a team mechanic when arranging the spare bikes on top of the team car. 

Slammed and long stems

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If there’s anything that sets a pro race bike apart, it’s the penchant for long and slammed stems. Pro racers like to get very low at the front, for aerodynamics, and they like to stretch out, too. In the olden days, racers would have steel frames custom measured to fit, but these days most pros (with some exceptions) have to fit a stock carbon frame size. That often means a racer will ride a smaller size frame and sort the reach out with a frankly ridiculous length stem, with 140mm quite common and even 150mm stem occasionally spotted, as in the picture at the top of the article.

It’s worth remembering that the colossal hours of riding a pro clocks up every year means they can maintain a position that might have us phoning for a chiropractor after 30 minutes in the same position. That’s why you should never emulate the bike fit of a professional, but instead get a bike fit that is right for you.

Super clean cassettes

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Cassettes so clean you could eat your dinner off... not that you would ever want to. Pro bikes are cleaned after every single training ride and race so they’re always immaculately clean, there’s never the chance for grime and dirt to accumulate on any of the moving parts. During the bigger races, bar tape is sometimes replaced daily so the bikes always look like they’ve just rolled off the shop floor. Chains are frequently replaced, nothing is left to wear out.

Tubular tyres

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Most regular cyclists use clincher tyres, easy to remove and change an inner tube when you need. All pro bikes are fitted with tubular tyres, though, which require the tyre being glued to the rim. A tubular tyre glued to a carbon wheel is currently the lightest setup, because the rim construction is simpler, and in a sport obsessed with weight (though limited by the UCI’s 6.8kg weight limit) every little bit of weight can make a difference. 

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It’s not just the weight. One of the key reasons that pros still use tubular tyres is because you can still ride with a flat tyre - a punctured tubular tyre won’t blow off the rim. An inner tube blowout with a clincher setup, whilst unlikely, can be potentially dangerous. So a punctured tubular tyre can still be ridden on,  at reduced speed, usually long enough to receive a spare wheel from the following team car or neutral support.

There are other reasons. Many racers will tell you they prefer the more supple ride feel of a tubular tyre as well. Tubular tyres also accommodate higher pressures and pro racers will run up to 140 psi if the road conditions are good enough.

Precise bike setup

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This isn’t the most obvious thing you spot on a pro race bike, but the position of the saddle and handlebar is measured to absolute precision. There’s no guesswork with saddle height, stem length or handlebar drop, it’s all based on professional bike fits at the beginning of the season, along with a dose of personal preference based on the many hours of training and racing a pro does.

Aluminium and classic round handlebars

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Most pro race bikes are fitted not with carbon handlebars, but aluminium handlebars. There are two reasons. The first is that, often, a bit of extra weight is needed to ensure the bike doesn’t dip below the UCI’s 6.8kg weight limit. Adding a metal handlebar might be enough of a difference.

An aluminium handlebar is more durable as well, and should take the knocks from a few crashes and being transported between races better. That’s not to say you don’t see carbon bars, they’re just outnumbered by aluminium bars, at least based on my experience of looking at hundreds of team bikes over the years.

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Handlebar shape is another noticeable thing that sets a pro bike apart. Despite a wide range of handlebar shapes and the popularity of ergonomic and compact  bend handlebars on production bikes, a large number of pro racers still favour the classic round bend handlebar. The deep drop and long reach won’t suit everyone, but will if you’re a sprinter and want a super aero tucked position.

Custom saddles

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This isn’t something you see on every pro race bike, but custom saddles are popular by sponsors keen to honour the success of a particular rider on a team. The saddle is ripe for customisation as it’s a large canvas for a bit of creativity, and it’s relatively easy and cheap to do. And it's a good way of getting a bit of exposure in a cycling magazine because for some strange reason we always photograph the saddles.

Which way is it?

paris roubaix 2013 - bmc course markers

Pros race on closed roads so don't have to worry about navigation, but you very often see small bits of paper marked with notable hills, cobbles, sprints or feed stations, taped to the stem or top tube. It provides the racer with a quick glance at any upcoming challenges so they can be in the right position in the bunch to serve their duties that day, whether it's leading coming into a cobbled section of the foot of a climb. But in a sport packed with cutting-edge technology, it does look a bit odd. There must surely be a better way?

David has worked on the road.cc tech team since July 2012. Previously he was editor of Bikemagic.com and before that staff writer at RCUK. He's a seasoned cyclist of all disciplines, from road to mountain biking, touring to cyclo-cross, he only wishes he had time to ride them all. He's mildly competitive, though he'll never admit it, and is a frequent road racer but is too lazy to do really well. He currently resides in the Cotswolds.


samuri [73 posts] 1 year ago

One of those bikes has some of that mad electronic gear shifting stuff on it. No sane non-pro racer would buy that so you should have included it.

bikeman01 [100 posts] 1 year ago

Precise bike setup?

Sounds obvious that this would be the case but I watched a GCN video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJALTWoFNlg) where they interviewed a number of pro riders about stem length and every single rider said they slammed as low as they could go and went with whatever they felt comfortable with. Several had never had a bike fit.

Kapelmuur [458 posts] 1 year ago
davel wrote:
mingmong wrote:
Jetmans Dad wrote:
BarryBianchi wrote:

I just changed my name to Mr C Arrera.

Hey, that’s a really good idea, I might have to look into that.

Mr B. Twin


Me too.


Mr C.Laris

I've already changed my name once.


The Artist Formerly Known As Claud Butler.

I was thinking of changing my name to MR Idley, but I still have a packet full of stickers with my real name that I need to use.