We help you find the right mudguards for your bike
  • Mudguards are the key to keeping dry in typical British conditions. Unless it's raining hard, spray from your wheels is what gets you wet.

  • A vital courtesy in group rides, a long rear mudguard with flap keeps spray out of the face of the rider behind you.

  • For road bikes without mudguard eyes, there are lots of options from full-length guards designed to squeeze in to the limited space to clip-ons that at least keep your bum drier.

  • Full-coverage bolt-on guards are the way to go for any bike that can take them and that will be used all year round.

If you’re determined to cycle through the winter whatever the weather, an easy way to make it more pleasant is by fitting your bicycle with mudguards. They will prevent a lot of the spray created by the wheels from turning you into a soggy mess.

If you've never used mudguards — and a lot of riders haven't — you'll be surprised at how much water they keep off. When you ride in the rain, you mostly get wet from water thrown up by the wheels, especially in lovely British drizzle.

Mudguards fall roughly into three types

• Traditional full-length mudguards commonly fitted to touring bikes
• Clip-on plastic guards that will attach to most road bikes
• Mountain bike style mudguards that attach to the down tube and seatpost

This choice means there is are mudguards to fit just about every type of bike, from a carbon race bike to a flat bar commuter. This guide will show you the best type of mudguards for your bike.

Think mudguards aren't cool and that they'll spoil the lines of your bike? Think again. Even professional cyclists will be fitting mudguards to their racing bikes through the winter.

Mudguards also offer a performance advantage. Yes, really. Ride without mudguards and your feet will get soaked, and then get very cold, and your legs will be saturated by rear wheel spray. The resulting chill can really affect your ability to push hard on the pedals as well as sapping your motivation. By keeping as much of the water off your body as you can, you're going to be able to ride for longer, and faster, when the roads are drowning.

For commuting, mudguards are a no-brainer. If you want to cycle to work through the winter, mudguards go a long way to ensuring you stay reasonably dry. If you have to carry a rucksack a rear mudguard will stop it getting covered in dirt, and then leaving a trail of dirt through your workplace.

Lars van der Haar winter bike

You might think mudguards look daft on your carbon race bike, but that’s not as daft as you’ll look with a brown line up the back of your jacket and sodden shoes from the front wheel spray. We often hear people say that mudguards ruin the clean lines of their road bike, but if it's the difference between being dry or absolutely soaked and covered in road muck from head to toe, then we'll happily use them for the winter months. We're more interested in keeping dry so we can keep cycling through the winter.

If you're riding in a group, those following your wheel will appreciate your mudguards. Many clubs and riding groups demand mudguards over the winter.

Full-length mudguards

  • Pros: Best coverage, protects bike as well as rider, protects the rider behind you
  • Cons: Can be fiddle to fit, won't fit all bikes, limited clearance, can be rattly

These are the mudguards commonly referred to as traditional mudguards, because they’ve been around for many, many years. They are most often a permanent fixture on touring bikes. Due to their length and sides, they cover a large percentage of both wheels and provide the best protection from spray generated by the wheels.

Some full-length mudguards are longer than others. Some have a large rubber flap on the end of the front mudguard. The longer front mudguards really help to stop your feet from getting soaked through. There's a surprising amount of spray kicked up by the front wheel and your feet are right in the firing line. The longer the front mudguard, the more chance of your feet staying dry. Having a long rear mudguard will keep spray from hitting the person following behind you when you're riding in a group too.

The other advantage of these mudguards is that they offer the most protection to the bicycle. They keep all the water and mud away from the brake calipers, which really don't like being dowsed in gritty water, and it's the same for the front mech. They also keep water away from a saddle bag and rear light that you might have attached to the saddle/seatpost, so that's another plus for mudguards.

Full-length mudguards are very sturdy. They mount to your frame at the brake calipers, eyelets at the dropouts, and to the chainstay bridge behind the bottom bracket. They can take a bit of time to set up, but once in place they will survive a lot of abuse.

In order to fit full-length mudguards you need a frame with enough clearance under the brakes and behind the seat tube. That means the chainstays are a bit longer, lengthening the wheelbase. The extra space under the brakes means you usually need long-reach brake calipers, too especially if you want to use mudguards with 25mm or larger tyres.

The fact that full-length mudguards can only be fitted to frames with the necessary mounts and clearance does limit them, but there are plenty of bikes designed to accept them. Most common are those that fall into the touring/Audax category of bicycle design, with a variety of frame materials including the most common: steel, titanium and alloy. It’s also possible these days to buy a carbon fibre frame with the necessary eyelets and clearance for these mudguards.

Not everyone wants, or has space/money for a second bike built specifically to take mudguards. Luckily, bicycle designers have cottoned on to this and many regular road bikes come with concealed mudguard mounts. Without mudguards a bike like this looks like any regular road racing bike, but look close enough and you'll find mounts that turn it into a mudguard-equipped winter bike.

Concealed mudguard mount on a Trek Madone 2.1

The Trek Madone 2.1, for example, has mudguard eyelets just behind the dropouts on the fork and frame, out of view until you need to use them. The Canyon Inflite also has unique mudguard mounts and Canyon have designed their own mudguards, made by SKS, to be compatible with these mounts, so there's increasing choice if you look around.

Recommended full-length mudguards

Kinesis Fend Off mudguards — £55

Kinesis Fend-Off mudguards-7.jpg

'When you live in the UK, you gain an appreciation for a good set of mudguards,' says Kinesis of its Fend Off guards. And true to form, they are a good set of mudguards. Very good, in fact.

Most of your mudguard options out there are plastic, or plastic with a metal core. These Fend Off mudguards are anodised aluminium, and as such they're considerably stiffer than most. Kinesis has only used a single stay on the front, and that's plenty to keep the guard firmly in place. At the back there are two stays and a bridge mount, but again the guard is stiff enough that you could dispense with the bridge mount if, for example, you have a frame with no seatstay bridge. With it in place, the guard is very rigid and quiet.

Read our review of the Kinesis Fend Off mudguards
Find a Kinesis dealer

SKS Chromoplastic — £31.99 - £33.99

Jamis Quest Audax - SKS chromoplastic mudguards 4

The SKS Chromoplastic mudguards are one of the best known, and very highly regarded, full-length options. They’re made by sandwiching aluminium strips inside a plastic housing. The resulting profile is quite deep which makes it stiff and sturdy. Stainless steel stays fix them in place and the Secu-Clips on the front means they pop out of the mount if somehting gets caught between the mudguard and tyre, rather than locking teh wheel and putting you on your face. You get a generous mudflap on the front mudguard and a reflector on the rear. They’re available in several sizes to fit tyres from 20 to 45mm.

Read our review of SKS Chromoplastic mudguards
Find an SKS dealer

SKS Longboard mudguards — £29.99

SKS Longboard.JPG

You get the most coverage of any mudguard from the SKS Longboards, thanks to the extended front and rear flaps. The front almost reaches the floor, which is great for keeping spray off your feet, while your riding companions will appreciate the generous rear coverage.

Read our review of the SKS Longboard mudguards
Find an SKS dealer

M:Part Primoplastics — £19.99

MPart Primoplastic mudguards - rear guard.jpg

M:Part Primoplastics mudguards are a hassle-free solution to keeping your backside dry and your bike clean. With easy fittings and high levels of stability they make a great choice against others on the market.

At first glance the Primoplastics look pretty similar to what could arguably be called the market leaders, SKS Chromoplastics, but we found the M:Part guards just a little better, in just about every way.

Read our review of the M:Part Primoplastics

Find an M:Part dealer

Tortec Reflector — £27.98

Tortec Reflectors are serious contenders in the full-length mudguard hall of fame, if there were such a place.

Reflective pin striping is primarily for rider safety but also adds a decorative touch. Thanks to their density, they should survive many seasons and considerable abuse. A comprehensive and equally sturdy fitting kit including zip-tie chain-stay bridges means they’re as close to a genuinely universal fit as you’re likely to get.

Unlike cheaper models, they have a much rounder profile complementing, rather than detracting from a bike’s clean lines.

Read our review of the Tortec Reflector mudguards
Find a Tortec dealer

Clip-on mudguards

  • Pros: Fit road bikes without mudguard eyelets, lightweight
  • Cons: Less protection than full-length mudguards, compatibility and clearance issues with some bikes
SKS Germany Raceblade long Mudguard Set - rear.jpg

If your road bike doesn't have mudguard mounts, there are still a lot of mudguards designed for such bikes.

Clip-on mudguards don’t require the frame to have eyelets or long-reach brake calipers, or extra clearance. Instead, they attach to the frame using simple fastenings like rubber bands, Velcro or zip ties. This gives far more versatility than full-length mudguards as you aren’t hindered by bike choice, and it means you can keep riding your favourite road bike through the winter if you want to.

The main downside of clip-on mudguards is that they usually don’t wrap as much of the wheel, nor have the sides or front rubber flap, that full-length mudguards offer. This means they don’t keep as much of the rain and spray off your body or bike. However, they do keep most of the water off and can make a huge difference on wet roads. When spring rolls around they can easily be removed and stored in the garage until winter, restoring the clean lines of your road bike.

Clip-on mudguards are also much lighter than full-length mudguards, and some people might just want to fit a rear mudguard for those winter club runs where you're forced to spend the whole ride at the back if you turn up without mudguards. No one wants a face full of water and mud from following someone without mudguards.

Fitting clip on mudguards can be fraught with compatibility issues, which usually focus around the limited clearance on regular road bikes. It's worth having a read of our reviews first, and checking with the manufacturer to see which bikes they're compatible with.

Recommended clip-on mudguards

SKS Speedrocker mudguards — £43

SKS Speedrocker mudguards 01.jpg

The SKS Speedrocker mudguards are easy to fit, provide room for really fat tyres and are free from rubs and rattles. Their only significant fault is that riders following you will wish the rear guard was a bit longer.

SKS has done a bang-up job of the Speedrockers. They'll fit around tyres up to about 38mm, as long your frame has room for them. The front comes in two pieces to avoid the perennial problem of squeezing a guard under the fork crown and the rear has a sliding component to fit against the seat tube.

The front guard is long enough to keep your feet dry, though it's not as ground-tickling as SKS's Longboard guard, and the rear does a decent job of keeping the wet off your bum. However, it only extends round the tyre to about the 10 o'clock position, so spray off the lower segment of the wheel is thrown up at anyone following your wheel.

Read our review of the SKS Speedrocker mudguards
Find an SKS dealer

Flinger Race Pro Clip mudguards – £39


We're big fans of Flinger, with our reviewer Liam applauding the "near-perfect performance from an easy-to-use clip-on mudguard at a sensible price". You are limited to using 25mm tyres due to their width, but if you want to commute on your regular road bike while still protecting yourself from spray then these are a great shout. They're super quick and easy to install and stay secure once they're on, with the stays fitting to the frame via a rubber band that can be cut to length.

Read our review of the Flinger Race Pro Clip mudguards

Find a Flinger dealer

SKS Raceblade Pro/Pro XL — £25.95-£39.99

SKS Raceblade Pro XL mudguards - rear.jpg

The 2016 SKS Raceblade Pro sets a new benchmark for temporary mudguards. Infinite adjustability and solid mounting make for an excellent package. There are now two models of Raceblade: the Pro and Pro XL. The Pro (355g) is shorter and has skinnier tyre clearance than the Pro XL (365g), which once fitted comes pretty close to replicating the coverage of a fixed mudguard.

Over a month or so of short, long, dry and soaking wet rides on old steel and new carbon bikes, both the Pro and Pro XL worked flawlessly. They hang on tenaciously, don't move of their own accord, and are easily adjusted back into place if knocked.

Read our review of the SKS Raceblade Pro/Pro XLs

Find an SKS dealer

SKS Raceblade Long Mk II — £30.00 - £36.60

SKS Germany Raceblade long Mudguard Set - rear.jpg

SKS introduced version one of this full-length quick-fit mudguard in 2011, but they soon vanished because of reliability problems with the clips. They're back and much improved. The guards clip into mounts at the brakes and hubs that can be permanently left on your bike. Once they're on, they act like regular, full-length guards.

The Raceblade Long Mk IIs reward a healthy willingness to fettle, especially on modern disc-braked bikes. The ability to bend and cut the stays to required lengths and adjust their position on the mudguard (or even remove one stay completely) means, with a good eye, they will go onto pretty much any bike. We've even managed to fit them to a bike with very tight clearance under the rear brake bridge by simply fitting the clips upside-down so they go over the top of the brake.

Once they are on and adjusted, they work very well indeed. The strong multiple stays hold the guards firmly without any rubbing, and should they get severely knocked, a bit of bending/use of a 2mm Allen key gets things back in shape.

Read our review of the SKS Raceblade Long Mk IIs

Find an SKS dealer

Crud Roadracer Mk3 — £26.99

Crud Roadracer Mk3 2.JPG

The other popular option is the Crud Roadracer. As long as you've got 4mm between the top of your tyre and the inside of your brake caliper, the Roadracers will slide in. The Mk3 version is the longest of any clip-on mudguard, almost as long as full-length mudguards, and has a front mech protector too.

You don't need mudguard eyelets. Roadracers attach to the frame with what looks like industrial strength velcro. That makes the Roadracer’s incredibly light at just 262g for the pair.

The weight is saved because Roadracers do not use the four metal stays used on conventional mudguards to keep the guards from touching the wheel or tyre. Instead, the Roadracers have plastic stays that support them from the centre.

Fitting these is remarkably easy; it's possible to get a good setup in just 15 minutes. The all-plastic construction means Roadracers are more fragile than chromoplastic guards, an issue for some riders.

Read our review of the Crud Roadracer Mk3 mudguards
Find a Crud Products dealer

Mountain bike style mudguards

  • Pros: Will fit almost any bike, loads of clearance regardless of frame design
  • Cons: Limited protection, won't protect rider behind you, feet will still get wet, bike gets no protection

The other type of mudguard is that favoured by mountain bikers. Mountain bikes, because of the huge variety of design thanks to factors like suspension and huge tyres, need a mudguard fitted very high above the wheel. The solution is a rear mudguard that clips onto the seatpost so the height above the wheel can be adjusted, and a a front mudguard that's attached to the down tube.

These mudguards are useful for commuting bikes, especially where clearance might be an issue because of frame design or wide tyres. The simplicity of fitting makes them attractive, and they can be whipped off in a minute too. While these mudguards don't provide 100% protection compared to full-length options, they do keep a surprisingly large amount of spray off.

The seatpost-style mudguard is one favoured by quite a few professional riders, but they’re more for keeping your own back dry than worrying about the rider behind you getting a faceful of Belgian toothpaste.

Similarly, a mudguard attached to the downtube also offers the same simplicity of fitment. Protection from front wheel spray is limited to riding in a straight line through; the mudguard obviously doesn’t track the front wheel through turns.

Recommended mountain bike-style mudguards

Zefal Swan Road — £7.99

Zefal Swan Road Rear mudguard.jpg

If you're looking for great protection from road spray from your rear wheel and don't have mudguard mounts (or much technical know-how), the Zefal Swan Road is a great option – for both permanent and temporary use.

It fits via a sturdy yet simple bracket to the seatpost, so there's no faffing around with fiddly support struts, and it eliminates the issue of clearance altogether. The bracket fits by a screw-on mechanism, which when fully unscrewed releases and unclips from the seatpost for removal. It really is super simple.

Read our review of the Zefal Swan Road
Find a Zefal dealer

SKS S-Blade — £12.00

SKS S-Blade mudguard.jpg

The SKS S-Blade will fit seatpost diameters between 25.4 and 35mm. It works best with 18-26mm tyres. 28mm upwards shows signs of compromise with tell-tale spatter congregating along the peripheries. Getting everything aboard is effortlessly simple; you'll just need a 4mm Allen key for tweaking the angle.

Read our review of the SKS S-Blade mudguard

Crud Catcher — £7.95

The Crud Catcher is perhaps the best-known down-tube-mounted front wheel mudguard. Okay, it's not as effective as a full guard but sometimes you don't want (or can't fit) one of those, and it's an excellent solution for many bikes.

Read our review of the Crud catcher mudguard
Find a Crud Product dealer

Micro guards

You might think that Crud Guards and the like were the last word in minimalist protection from rain and spray, but you'd be wrong. In the last couple of years we've seen the advent of a new type of guard, what we're calling the micro guard. These offer protection from the worst of the elements when you need it and when you don't you just whip them off and stow them, usually under the saddle.

These are ideal for those people who either live somewhere it doesn't rain a lot but who don't want to get caught out when it does, or for those who don't ride that often in the rain, but likewise don't want to get caught out when it does. The two leading makes are the Ass Saver and the Full Windsor Quick Fix/Fast Fix. Both are simple, easy to fit affairs that are also suprisingly durable.

Genetic Micro Fender £43.99

Further proof that nothing stands still in the world of mudguards is the development of what might be termed the Super Micro Guard. The one and only example we know of so far is the Genetic Micro Fender which uses a carbon arm to hold in place a surprisingly effective minimalist guard in the sweet spot for deflecting the most crud from your back wheel. It even has directional channels to help it shed water more quickly. Unlike the Ass Saver or the Zefal Shield it's not cheap though.

Zefal Shield S10 — £8

Zefal Shield S10 - on bike 2.jpg

The Zefal Shield S10 is a minimalist rear mudguard that offers a decent amount of coverage to the rider and has a sturdy fixing system. For a cheap and cheerful fix, what's not to like?

For starters, it literally takes a few seconds to fit. The clamping area is grooved to accept most standard saddle rails and you just clip the mudguard on. For added security the Zefal comes with a Velcro strap, just to make sure that everything stays in place. Once fitted, I got no movement from it even when riding on gravel tracks and rough byways.

Read our review of the Zefal Shield S10
Find a Zefal dealer

Ass Saver Extended — £10.49

The Ass Saver is about as minimal as mudguards get: a strip of plastic (different widths are available) that hooks onto the rails of the saddle providing just enough protection from rear wheel spray. It’s not so good on heavily saturated roads, but for the occasional puddle it does make a difference.

Read our review of the Ass Saver mudguard
Find an Ass Saver dealer

What if you want full length mudguards but your bike doesn't have eyelets?

Don't worry: no front and rear mudguard eyelets does not mean you have to forego full length mudguards. There are a number of attachments available to help you attach mudguards to your bike, eyelets or not.

The best known is the P-Clip, basically a small clamp/bracket that fits to the bike's frame and fork legs to allow you to then fit the mudguards. P-Clips are readily available and come in a variety of widths and materials and at a variety of prices, topping out around the £3.50 mark for some Tortec P-Clips.

There are a couple of other answers to the question below. These systems will allow you to fit full-length mudguards to more or less any road bike, but bear in mind that you'll still need enough clearance between your brake caliper and the tyre to squeeze the mudguard in.

Recently the advent of wider tyres has meant that standard caliper brakes have been widened and deepened in the arch slightly to accommodate up to a 28mm carcass. That's good news if you want mudguards, because it means you'll probably be able to squeeze in a guard and 23mm or 25mm tyres, depending on your particular bike.

PDW Full Metal Guards — £94.99

Going to the other end of the scale are the PDW Full Metal Guards. These are full length guards that come with their own fitting kit that bypasses the need for mudguard eyelets by using tabs that attach to your bike's quick release skewers. At £60 they're not cheap, but they are very effective, and the set we've got have proved very durable too.

You can also buy the fitting kit separately for £13.50 which does open up the possibility at least of using those QR tabs to fit a different set of mudguards. However before you do that you might like to check out our final suggestion.

Read our review of the PDW Full Metal mudguards
Find a PDW dealer

Axiom Mudguard Axle Runners — £32.51

These are light but sturdy metal tabs that fit over your bike's quick releases enabling you to fit mudguards. They work but might require a bit of filing down to fit some dropouts, but if it's a choice between that and wet feet from all that front wheel spray we know which we'd chose.

Find an Axiom dealer


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David has worked on the road.cc tech team since July 2012. Previously he was editor of Bikemagic.com and before that staff writer at RCUK. He's a seasoned cyclist of all disciplines, from road to mountain biking, touring to cyclo-cross, he only wishes he had time to ride them all. He's mildly competitive, though he'll never admit it, and is a frequent road racer but is too lazy to do really well. He currently resides in the Cotswolds.


2Loose [54 posts] 1 year ago
1 like

Anyone have any  decent solutions for bikes that have no brake bridge due to disc or direct mount brakes?

2Loose [54 posts] 1 year ago

*duplicate post*

David9694 [133 posts] 1 year ago

The difference with full mudguards clearance-wise between dry heaven and scrapey, rubby hell is 2 or 3 mm. The presence of mudguard eyes don't guarantee this clearance.

On my first ever build, a Nelson Audax, the set-up with chunky 28s was never right. (I had to invest in some Miche calipers as neither Shimano standard or long reach seemed to work at the back.) Yet on my Spa Audax, I run 28s, Ultegra calipers and SKS and it all works perfectly.  It’s all in the detail. 

On my recent Raleigh Road Ace 1982 replica build* I got things working at the front using the clip normally used at the back (I’d previously removed the fixed clip).

I’d normally recommend using a daruma bolt, if your fork crown allows it and you’ve got the vertical clearance. If your brake bridge and chainstay bridge allow it, consider drilling and tapping to accept a screw, so you’re not reliant on the mudguard clip that will likely fail miles from home.

Last time I looked, mudguard makers still hadn’t accounted for the fact that for many years now, brakes have been fastened with the sunken nut; so you mount it in front of the crown thinking how adaptable you are, only to find it hits the overhanging lower headset race. 

Presumably the intended readers of the article are only looking at P35, width-wise, which is usually held to be good for up to 700x28 tyres. 

+1 on bolt croppers for cutting stays to length; I bought a pack of plastic ends (the simple sort what’s with this latest SKS type??) - not cheap for what they are, but I did graze myself once on an uncapped end.  You usually need quite a short bolt on the rear drive side to avoid fouling the chain.

+1 also on Tortec and SKS (the old ESGE) for full length mudguards.  

Stronglight offer what looks like a bargain - apparently you don’t get the mounting bolts (which is why God gave you your local hardware shop, that will sell you the required four bolts in a paper bag and give you change from £1).


* we were too poor for me to have one at the time - these things cut deep 


David9694 [133 posts] 1 year ago
PpPete wrote:

Disappointing ommision of the Radial Cycles aluminium guards. More robust than any of the plastic stuff and one third the price of the PDWs.   And no I'm not on commission !

Out of stock today at Radial; they do look nice - you can have any colour...

IanEdward [353 posts] 1 year ago

Anyone have any  decent solutions for bikes that have no brake bridge due to disc or direct mount brakes?

I've asked this previously as I have a Rose with direct mount brakes.

I just used two opposing zip ties around the stays and threaded through the hanger on the mudguard. Ideally wrap the stays in something to protect them. This was simple, light and worked perfectly.

Someone suggested p-clips and some aluminium plate (I found an old bit of meccano which was perfect as predrilled!). This would probably work but I find P-Clips can splay and start to look a bit messy if your stays are anything other than perfectly circular. Nothing a bit of patience and care couldn't avoid.

Another suggestion was a rear reflector bracket mounted on your seattube. Certain brackets can be angled so you would just adjust the angle to suit the angle of the bridge on the guards. I haven't found a bracket though that looks long enough to mimic the position of a standard seatstay bridge.


srchar [1621 posts] 1 year ago
whoishJ wrote:

I'd honestly keep full length guards on all year round

Same. Do mudguards bother people that much that they faff about taking them off in summer and refitting them for winter?

It's also more pleasurable overtaking someone on a much better bike than yours if you've got full length mudguards with a massive rubber flap at the back. I don't think you get extra SCR points though.

David9694 [133 posts] 1 year ago

Just taken delivery of some Widget fully reflectives. They’ve come from EBay and I’m glad I didn’t pay full price on them.

The main issue others need to know is that there’s no spring clip supplied - Widget expect a threaded mudguard bridge attachment - cheeky of them, I think.

The reflective surface looks like it’s a bit scratch prone. No red rear reflector included, not even a hole. 

The pop-off capability comes at the mudguard end,rather than at the eye end. You attach the 6 clips to the edges of the mudguard, the stays fit in to the clip and are screwed in, all in plastic. Not sure what would fail first, the attachment of the mudguard to the clip, or the clip to the stay.

Plastic mudguard clip for attachment to brake bridge supplied. A nice range of hardware supplied, including spacers for disc systems.


Rose on a Rose [43 posts] 1 year ago

Very happy with my Tortec Reflectors. I believe from my LBS that these are now distributed with Raleigh branding.

hawkinspeter [4223 posts] 1 year ago
2Loose wrote:

Anyone have any  decent solutions for bikes that have no brake bridge due to disc or direct mount brakes?

I've just ordered some Lifeline ones from Wiggle that look like they might work (cheap, too): http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-narrow-road-clip-on-mudguard/

996ducati [15 posts] 1 month ago
1 like


 I had a set of Crud Mk2 fitted to my winter bike for three years, worked really well. Just been replaced with a set of Crud Mk3.

I think the key is that "clip on" plastic guards need to stay on once fitted. If you think they can be fitted and removed often they will break or be a pain with alignment etc.

danhopgood [59 posts] 1 month ago

I've still got the original Chromoplastic full mudguards on my old 531 Carlton I got for passing my O levels in 1982.  After 37 years they still look good - I think they've worn better than me..... 

kil0ran [1725 posts] 1 month ago

My Tortec Reflectors are still going strong and currently handling deep mud wrapped around some 650B/47C WTB Senderos. Impressive bit of kit for the money

horrovac [5 posts] 1 month ago
muffies wrote:

I got the SKS Raceblade Pro XL and I would not recommend them. They're alright and there's much worse but not good enough.


I own the plain raceblades and would not recommend them either. All your points are true. The attachment is not positive and you have to fiddle with them endlessly until they fit and don't rub, and then they easily get knocked out of place and rub nonetheless. It's a faff. In the front they're too short, they don't protect the fork crown and the bearings above, there is no "nose" extending in front of the fork, meaning the front wheel can generate a massive spray that then gets blown back onto your legs. The rear has nothing beyond the seatstays and douses your feet from behind and is too short to effectively protect anyone riding behind you.

Mind you, they're WORLDS better than what other chaps were using on a long rainy 400km brevet that will forever stick in my memory - mtb-style clip-ons, ass-savers, or plain ol' nothing - but still not good enough. Only one of us hat a set of really really long SKS semi-permanently attached ones, and everyone was trying to ride behind him. They also extended in front of the fork and seatstays so he was much drier than myself too. I think I'll get me some.

IanR [8 posts] 1 month ago

I regularly cycle with a group and avoiding spraying the guy behind is as important as avoiding spraying myself.  Few guards, even full length ones,  offer much protection to the following cyclist in my experience.   I use the PDW full metal guards on my Winter bike and I find them excellent at keeping spray off me.  Also, I have been told that on wet days, I am the person to cycle behind.  Apparently, my guards are the best for avoiding spray to the guy behind as well.

matthewn5 [1420 posts] 1 month ago

Another satisfied Crud Mk 2 user here.

I have a set that were fitted to my Canyon Ultimate AL commuter first in 2014, and since that went, have been on my Cinelli Experience for the last 3 1/2 years. Both are tight clearance rim brake frames without eyelets. Occasionally I need to replace the rubber bands or the brush strips, but other than that, they just sit there quietly and do their job. I've replaced the odd screw and once one of the front sections, but the internet is full of people selling perfectly good sets new or second hand, so spares are super easy to come by. I leave them on all year round, as I commute whatever the weather. I really like the extended flap at the rhs of the rear guard, which keeps mud and crap off the chain. YMMV.

Crashboy [92 posts] 1 week ago

The other day, out of the (rainy)blue at well under 20KPH something got trapped between my front guard and my tyre, causing the mudguard to collapse / fold up towards the fork crown (and this was a good quality plastic with a metal core mudguard, factory fitted) the force of which ripped  the bolt out of the fork eyelet on one side (stripped the thread totally!)and wrapped the stainless stay round the fork / wheel etc - the mudguard exploded into about a dozen shards and the metal bridge at the fork jammed into the tyre throwing me forwards...it also trapped my brake hose and almost cut through it. In 40+ years this has never happened to me but looking into it (on the web) it seems more common than I realised.

If I'd been caning along, I would likely have been quite seriously hurt. 

Therefore I would encourage you all to think about how the front mudguard attaches  and consider those with a "safety" stay that comes apart if something gets trapped like this to reduce the risk of  an OTB - into traffic - moment like mine!

TheBillder [45 posts] 1 week ago

Spent almost 4 hours yesterday fitting SKS Longboards to my Ridley X Trail yesterday. 36mm tyres fill the mudguards pretty full. Hidden mounts are quite well hidden and paint on the threads so not all that easy. No seatstay bridge - there's an official accessory allegedly but nowhere sells it. So the old reflector bracket trick mentioned much earlier in the comments was very handy - I hardly ever throw any hardware away and about once a decade that gets rewarded.

I tried tin shears for cutting the stays and the pivot bolt on the tool sheared. I know there's a clue in the name but really... Hacksaw in the end.

Today nearly 5 hours riding in intermittent rain made the whole effort worthwhile. Despite neoprene overshoes I usually get soaked, chilly feet. Today they were damp but warm enough, so I guess the reduction in spray is the difference. No tyre rub, no rattles, no skid mark up the back and much better than the Zefal Swan I usually have (which of its type is decent)

So anyone swithering over the decision of mudguards yay or nay: I would recommend it heartily.

Sriracha [319 posts] 1 week ago
Crashboy wrote:

The other day, out of the (rainy)blue at well under 20KPH something got trapped between my front guard and my tyre, causing the mudguard to collapse / fold up towards the fork crown (and this was a good quality plastic with a metal core mudguard, factory fitted) the force of which ripped  the bolt out of the fork eyelet on one side (stripped the thread totally!)and wrapped the stainless stay round the fork / wheel etc - the mudguard exploded into about a dozen shards and the metal bridge at the fork jammed into the tyre throwing me forwards...it also trapped my brake hose and almost cut through it. In 40+ years this has never happened to me but looking into it (on the web) it seems more common than I realised.

If I'd been caning along, I would likely have been quite seriously hurt. 

Therefore I would encourage you all to think about how the front mudguard attaches  and consider those with a "safety" stay that comes apart if something gets trapped like this to reduce the risk of  an OTB - into traffic - moment like mine!

The eyelets ought to be higher up the fork (not down by the axle) so that the stays are not on a radius to the wheel. Then if something got jammed such that the mudguard was entrained by the rotation of the wheel, the mudguard would be pivoted away from the arc of the wheel, tending to release the trapped object.