When do you change your chain?

I disagree about never using chain baths and solvents in case you flush out the internal lube, it's not hard to replace.

Besides, once you get a really filthy chain, fine grit or grinding gunk in between the plates you need to flush it out. No amount of wiping is going to remove it.

If you clean the chain thoroughly with a degreaser, rinse with very hot water - you need to take it off to do this obviously - dry, then relube each link at the join with wet or dry lubricant, then back pedal the chain round then the lube will work it's way inside the links easily.

something that does a huge amount of damage to the drivetrain is:

-cleaning the chain with aggressive cleaning products or mechanisms (like chain cleaning machines) that strip out the lubricant inside the rollers. Chain manufacturers like Shimano and KMC specifically advise against using any solvents or cleaning machines as it just strips lube out of the chain rollers and dramatically reduces chain life. Once this internal lube is removed, its hard to replace.

-running a very dirty drivetrain, this simply is a grinding paste and will wear chain, cassette cogs, chainrings and derailleur pulley wheels in short order

-abusing the drivetrain with poor gear choices like big/big combos or riding constantly on the 11t cog at the rear, shifting under heavy load or forcing bad shifts going up into sudden climbs

on my own bikes (I am a workshop manager in a high-end bike shop) I will never clean my drivetrain with anything more aggressive than warm water and mild detergent, using a nylon brush and tooth brush.

Then rinsed with warm water, allowed to air dry and dry chain lube carefully applied to each roller on the chain, then back pedalled on a workstand through a clean rag to remove excess lube

between washing sessions, I would wipe the chain with a clean rag whilst back pedalling (pulling the chain down, up or applying side pressure with rag) on a workstand whilst in a gear combo giving a neutral chain line; apply a small amount of lube to a new rag, then backpedal again whilst using the rag, you can clean much surface dirt off the chain using the method

found this dramatically increases drivetrain life. Will check chain stretch every couple of weeks using Park chain checker and replace at recommend intervals.

something to bear in mind is that a spotlessly clean chain, is generally either a brand new chain, or a chain that has been abused using a parts washer or aggressive solvents in a chain cleaning machine, and external appearance is no indication of long-term durability when a chain is stripped of internal lubricants in an effort to "clean" the drivetrain

Jesus what are you lot doing with your bikes! - I ride 180 miles a week and havent changed chains for over two years. The load is split over 3 bikes but all the same...go with how it feels not what manufacturers say.

Do remeber when thinking that there are teeth "missing" on your chain rings rthat it is not uncommon for some teeth to be shorter when new...

I typically use three KMC chains per (basic) cassette in rotation and I change them every 1-2 weeks (200-400 miles)
It's very quick with a "Missing Link".

That way I expose my cassette to less wear than if I waited for individual chains to stretch up to 0.75% before replacement.
The added bonus is that I don't have to measure the wear.

P.S. Other than an occasional wipe I never deep clean or degrease them as it's not economically viable considering the time involved.

Surely its far more economic to regularly replace chain than do the whole lot in one go - i think my latest cassette has lasted for about 3 or 4 chains now - and the chainrings have outlasted several cassettes. The key is to replace before the chain gets too stretched - its as this point that it will start to wear the teeth of cassette and chainrings and you are stuck in a cycle of replacing the whole lot

this forum is excellent, I'm learning so much, give me another 6 months of reading on here and I could be a pro mechanic lol.

Mmmm, tough one. Clearly, I'm not as religious about it as some who have commented here, but ... my Trek 2200 is coming up for 9000 miles - and I have never changed either of the front rings since I bought it.

I change the chain when it starts to skip out of gear on the rear cassette and always change the chain and the cassette together. For me, that's about once a year. It still changes perfectly and is a dream to ride, but it isn't ridden every day - just 25-60+ miles 2 or 3 times a week. I always clean the chain down after every ride, wiping it free of dust and dirt and if I've ridden in the rain, I relube it.

Every month, I use a chain washer to give it a thorough clean and thoroughly brush down the cassette and the front rings with the cleaner making sure I get into all the spaces. Works for me!

Odd that you didn't notice teeth missing from a chain ring. Winter bike, must be very mucky! But the advice here is all correct, and if G has got a 25.5 measurement, don't delay, change it now before any other serious wear means more replacement bits. Mind,after this winter, which is still going on, there will be merit in a good clean down, some checks, and replace what's needed.

I bought a ribble winter bike just over a year ago and didn't show it too much love, It's a training bike, right!. had no problems with it until started getting some nasty pinging noises. Bought myself a chain checker and it turns out the chain should have been binned ages ago. Fitted a new chain and now the gears jump on certain sprockets and I've noticed a few teeth are missing off of the front chain ring, it all needs changing! Spend a few quid now and save yourself a lot of bother and cash, that's my advice.

If you change chain, then Change the cassette or you will end up with not smooth shifting. They wear together and should always be replaced together. Chain rings as an when they wear.

Chains usually jump on the sprocket if they're particularly worn.

I use a Park CC3 chain checker and replace the chain when it's nearly at 0.75, tested with the chain under tension. Leave it much longer and you'll wear out the cassette prematurely (and eventually the chainrings). Winter use and/or a lack of cleaning & lubing will make it wear out faster. It's a consumable. Replace it.

Is the noise definitely the chain? Or is the sound in time with your pedal strokes?

buy a chain checker - they're cheap and very easy to use.

And then they'll be no need to consult websites where people will tell you about their pants.

i change mine every 3 months regardless. like my pants really

In metric measurement, 10 links of a new chain are 25.4 cm, or 15 links, 38.1 cm.

If the rivet is up to 25.5 cm or halfway between 38.2 cm and 38.3 cm, all is well.
If the rivet is a little bit past 25.5 cm, or approaching 38.3 cm, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
If the rivet is approaching 25.7 cm or 38.5 cm, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at this point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
More than that, and a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.

If you buy a chain checking tool, and check your chain frequently, and change your chain when it reaches 0.75% stretched. A worn chain will accelerate wear on both chainrings and your cassette. It is a lot cheaper and easier to change your chain, than letting it wear everything else out!