Slipping chains, exploding bassoons

Congratulations! 2mm above the big ring works well.

Try two turns of PTFE tape on both pedal threads to see if the noise goes. Presumably it isn't the chain rubbng the front mech?

Also check the tightness of the chainring fixing bolts
, and that there is not play in your bottom bracket.

The spacing could be different with the TA rings whihc in trun will efefct the indexing - you could try spacing the rings out a little bit - I'm pretty sure someone (Problem solvers?) makes some washers specifically to do this.
It has to be done sometimes on singlespeed moutain bikes to get the chainline just right

had the same issue when i fitted KCNC rings to a 6600
Ultegra setup .... the spacing was wider than the
original Shimano setup by a couple of mm !!!!

Front derailleur set too high, yes, but also it looks like the cage on the mech is too wide for the chain. This could mean that when you change up, the inner cage plate pushes the chain out but the outer plate is not close enough to the chain to stop it coming off the ring. Same in reverse when changing down.

Also, is the front mech worn, especially the cage pivot? Play here could mean it's not holding the chain in place when completing a gear change.

I fancy that a new, tight, narrower, properly adjusted front mech would have a good chance of solving the problem.

Presumably your chain ring bolts are tight? No play in the bb? Can't see how any LBS would have missed any of this though!

I agree that the changer looks too high up the seat tube. Also... if you stop pedaling as soon as you feel it derail, you can get the chain back on by reversing the change. It's not as easy with Ergo levers as it is with downtube levers, but it can be done fairly reliably.

Perfecting the art of getting your chain back on with your shoe will keep your hands clean

Looks to me if the front mech is way too high-even for elliptical chainring. There can be other issues, of course, but I would start by lowering (and being sure to keep/obtain plate/ring alignment too) the mech until only 2mm between lower part of outer plate and teeth of the big ring exist. Modern systems can be so fickle. I love diversity of product, but after time and money wasting projects, have accepted to stick (or be stuck-as some would say) with same makers same tier products.

Hiya, is the picture at the top of your article your bke? If so the problem is very obvious... the front Mech is in the wrong position on the seat tube far to high up... surely two lbs can't have both missed that? Si

Totally frustrating to change something for the sake of spending money . Towards the end of a season you are better off relying on the old setup and tinkering with a new setup as the new season starts.
Found that the colder weather covers for a lot of bedding in problems. Past weeks in Austria the temperature has varied from -15c to +15c and the changeup & down has been difficult with a bit of slippage on the 11cog.
LBS people do their best but some problems elude the best of them.

stiff link?

I would take the set-up back to the LBS where you purchased them, reason with them that the set-up is not working. If they want you as a log term customer they should work with you............If you bought the items from an online retailer then, Blahahahahahahahahahahaha

aint that weird as just this weekend i had similar problems.
i swapped a 50T (SRAM rival) for a TA 48T chainring, although it is 9/10 speed it is a bit thicker than the SRAM ring, but the chain fits so no problem i thought. but the chain kept jumping off when shifting up (from the 34 to the 48) or not shifting at all when i adjusted the front mech. after an hour or so of messing with the front mech (try'd moving it up a few mm, down, left a bit then right etc) i swapped it for an old ultegra mech that i had knocking around. it worked first time, went out on sunday (157km) and not one slip or jump etc.

go figure eh!.