Rear wheel pulling out of dropouts

Thanks for the comments guys.

I'll give the sand paper washers a go this weekend, and get the frame looked at by Van Nicholas when the factory re-opens in August. My last Van Nic Euros did exactly the same thing, so i'm inclined to think the geometry is OK.

There a loads of posts of the same issue with titanium frames, but the problem is almost always solved by using high end skewers, assuming axle clearances etc are ok. Maybe my relatively high weight (94kg) and the fact my frame doesn't have any serrations on the dropouts though means there still isn't enough friction.

If this is the case, and Van Nic say the geometry is OK, I have no idea what they'll say, as a replacement frame will probably do the same.

I would make a washer out of 180/220 grit body work sand paper. Fold a small piece to make it two sided, apply a little glue to stick paper together, make hole for skewer shaft, that should hold it

Hi again,

The slipping wheel problem is still haunting me!

I have since purchased Crank Bros split lever skewers, Shimano Ultegra skewers and DT Swiss RWS skewers, all of which have been recommended to me by bike shops or forum members for having high clamping force. None of them have worked.

I have also been in contact with Van Nicholas who have asked me to send the bike back to them, but unfortunately they are about to enter a 1 month long factory shut-down. So little point sending it until August.

I daredn't try any potential fixes involving roughing up the dropouts in case Van Nic say I have voided the warranty. So, back to trying other low tech solutions until August. Will try to find some serrated washers next.

Any more suggestions are welcome!

Thanks

I van two Van Nic Ti bikes - no knurled surfaces - never had this problem using Mavic QR skewers.

I van two Van Nic Ti bikes - no knurled surfaces - never had this problem using Mavic QR skewers.

I am surprised that the frame builder didn't have the surface knurled in the drop outs. My bike has knurled surfaces.

Hi Alez,

Did you ever solve your problem? I'm being plagued by the very same thing on my titanium bike. I've tried one other skewer, and also tried rough up the drop out surface but to no avail.

Any advice you can give would be much appreciated!

Any gripping/friction paste won't do a think in that situation.
It's the QR isn't clamping hard enough, on Ti frames thats down to the use of 6/4 grade ti. Can either experiment with QRs to solve it or could see a serrated washer on the QR between the ends and dropout, dressing the face out the dropout with a centre punch too (though good look finding one that'll do 6/4 ti easily) to give the washer a bit more to bit onto.

I had this happen to me once with a Ti frame and Pro-Lite skewers. I figured I hadn't properly tightened it and it didn't happen again.

Sheldon Brown has a lot to say about skewers: he says that internal cam ones are better for clamping force and security than the more modern "weight saving" external cam types. Likewise steel axles are better (less stretchy) than aluminium or titanium.

Maybe try a traditional Shimano or Campag skewer and see if that helps.

Good luck.

Listen to your eyes, not your bum: get a Bianchi

Does the wheel sit snuggly in the dropout? From the picture the dropout looks very open, more than the axle diameter 10mm?

Check your jockey wheels are not jamming up or worn out, also check your jockey wheel cage and look for witness marks of the chain catching it.

Based on past experience.

Actually, I know the problem and it's solution.

Its fucked. Buy a new bike.

It's a bodge but el cheapo bikes have a tabbed washer that goes underneath the wheel axle nut and the tab goes into a slot in the dropout. Brompton from wheels too I think. Could you do something similar - a nice meaty QR skewer and some tabbed washers. Perhaps some local engineering place could make summat up. An MTB skewer may be suitable as it's a bit longer as mtb hub spacing is wider. (?)

or this'n is a bit cheaper and less specifically for carbon

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ritchey-liquid-torque/

Basic mechanical design, the material removed from the dropout with the cutouts probably isn't helping and the opening seems to be a little wider than normal, being Ti as well and given you have tried everything else my guess is it's the dropout itself that's the problem. the first thing I would do is get it to a top mechanic and have the alignment checked and corrected if possible. Failing that I would consider having a frame builder replace both dropouts with a more functional set, even if they aren't so pretty.

Try carbon paste, its a bit gritty and gives more grip.... May work.

Apparently you need either very hard or very soft QR faces, so that they either bite or deform.

A wee bit of wet and dry wouldn't go amiss where it mates.

Are there serrations on the inside (hub side)?

I've got Record and 105 hubs here, both are.

Have you tired bolt on skewers?
These work well, can get them to 8nm.

http://store.halo-usa.com/c/skewers_bolt-on?pkey=3e15699d0187b52489eb5e8...

Have you tried using an anti-slip compound on the dropouts? Would help the qrs to bite.

Okay, spoke to 'my' wheel builder.

Some skewers don't bite the Ti hard enough, he says most dura ace or campag ones will bite, you need to look for some that have good serrations.
There are apparently some boutique ones made for the job, but they are expensive.

I thought that might be the case, but thought I would post this in case someone with cup and cone hubs found it useful for the same issue.

The inside of the QR and the hub outer nut faces should have serrations in them to allow a 'bite' make sure these and the drop outs are clean and free of paint or grease. - Though I imagine you've already done this!