Haute Route

 It’s been a couple of weeks since the Haute Route ended and the burst of that little cycling reverie but there are still very tangible reminders of those 750kms; the cycling tan is still shocking, and a certain mark of pride, when I walk up stairs I can still feel the tiny pressure points of my road cleats like a stigmata from the day-on-day cycling, and I’m trying to hold onto the half a stone of weight loss that the week blessed upon me.

The final day of the Haute Route begins with a freewheel down the hill from Auron to the official start in St-Etienne-de-Tinée, and the beginning of an odd day. Of the riding total of 140 kms only about half will be timed, the first 32kms and last 23kms are neutralized, and there’s an odd 15km in there where we’re unmarshalled on public roads, it sounds confusing and bitty, it is.

Things appear to be winding down on the Haute Route as the penultimate day is a simple one, a trifling 78 km from Pra Loup to Auron, up a hill, down a hill, then an insignificant bump up to the finish. Unfortunately that one hill happens to be the Cime de la Bonette, which at 2802 metres is the highest paved road in Europe, and there’s about 20km of climbing to get to the top. Ah.

The fifth day of the Haute Route starts with a universally light-hearted mood among the riders. We’ve broken the back of the event in surviving the epic Madeleine - Télégraphe - Galibier triple whammy stage, all had a good rest after yesterday’s time-trial that only meant a short hour in the saddle and we’ve stayed in the same place for two nights running meaning less stress packing and unpacking stuff, which all helps a bit to stall the perpetual wearing down process.

Thankfully after the excesses of yesterday Day 4 is an easy day, although as this is the Haute Route an easy day means a 12km time-trial, uphill, to the top of the 2413 metre high Col Du Granon, a mere 1100 metres of climbing from the start in Serre Chevalier. Ah.

You know when you get up at 4.30 in the morning and put cycling clothes straight on it’s going to be a big day. Day Three of the Haute Route has been oft mentioned as being The Big One, the longest stage of the week at 169kms, with three mountains in the way offering a knee-trembling 4000 metres of climbing via the Madeleine, Télégraphe and the Galibier, tough enough on it’s own, but even tougher when inflicted on legs that have already suffered two hard days riding.

We’ve only been at it a day and already a routine is beginning to settle in. Up early doors, put on cycling kit that’s been pre-sorted the night before, totter down to breakfast, stuff as much croissant and bread into your face as you can, back up to room, brush teeth, pack bag, fill jersey pockets, deposit bag at pick-up point, pedal to start line, ride. Stop, eat, wash, eat, briefing, eat, sleep, wake up.

The wall of heat that falters the first step out the plane at Geneva airport is both a good and bad sign. Good in that the sun is shining and riding a bike in the sun is a Good Thing, bad in that in 30+ degree heat is going to be, um, troublesome if it continues over the week, especially as there’s 730km to pedal, with 17,000 metres of climbing. Even lugging the bike the 100 metres from the train station to the hotel brings about the kind of muck sweat that requires a t-shirt change, hmmm. Welcome to the Haute Route.