derailleur

Brand new and unused SRAM Force MY10 Rear mech and SRAM Force front mech 34.9mm clamp on.

I wanted to use SRAM but then I had a go on a SRAM equipped bike and don't like the shifters, so selling before I spend more money!

£80 posted all together - I paid £78.95 for the rear mech and £35 for the front mech and these are brand new...

email me on kinetic_uk_2010@yahoo.co.uk if interested in either or both.

Hello,

This is a pretty specific request, but I'm hoping that someone out there has a 9 or 10 speed Campagnolo double 32mm band-on front derailleur that's surplus to requirements. I'll consider any condition or model, except the QuickShift (QS) variants as they won't work with my particular ErgoPower levers. So if you've got something spare in your parts bin or are thinking about upgrading let me know.

Thanks for reading,

N.

So I just got my new bike, a Cervelo S1.

Troulbe is, I need junior gears on it, but I'm not sure the FD will accomdate them. Its brazed on, so I'm not sure just how much vertical adjustment there is possible to be. It needs a 42t chainring as the largest one, while it now has a 50t.

Question is, will it fit?

Thanks

I've got myself in a right pickle with my gearing. Last time I rode some of the cos were being missed or making lot of noise, so after doing a it of research and reading the installation manual (Shimano 105) I tinkered about with the barrel adjuster and limiting screws, noting seemed to get it quite right, often made it worse.
I got to the point where all the gears were engaging if a bit noisy and thought right, that's it I'll ride it. Then 10 miles in the highest gear starts trying to shift into the frame.

I was hoping to put an 11-28 cassette on my trusty old sequoia which has a long cage tiagra derailleur and currently runs on a 12-25 block. Having done a bit of homework, it looks like it can only handle a maximum of 27 teeth on the back.

Can anyone please advise, are Shimano technical specifications absolute, or is there the leeway I need to install 28 teeth at the back.

Any advice gratefully received.

Well, the question's in the title.

How can you stop the big ring from being shifted to, I really need to know.

If you use the derailleur limiters, will you have to retension the cables?

Thanks Forumers.

All from a planned road bike build which never happened.

Everything is brand new, unused, and still bagged. All prices include postage to UK. I will post elsewhere but please contact me for a postage price.

I'm in work today, but will reply to messages when I get home. I'm not sure how this forum works, but please could you 'dib' items that you want on this thread, and send me a message for payment details. That way we'll all be able to keep track on what's been sold and what hasn't.

The design of the link has been improved so you get a slightly lighter action in both directions. But the most noticeable difference here is that you no longer get a trim option – the small movement to adjust the plate position without moving from the big to the small chainring. The wider link means you don’t need it, which makes life just a little easier. You can even – if you’re some kind of crazy anarchist – run the chain from big chainring to big sprocket and there’s no rubbing on the front mech.

There are a couple of big changes out back. First, you get a carbon pulley plate that brings down the weight (16g overall). Second, the new rear mech is compatible with cassettes up to 28T. The total capacity (the tooth difference between the two chainrings plus the tooth difference between the biggest and smallest sprockets) is now 33T – so you’re unlikely to feel the need for a triple.